The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
An item that has been kicked about a bit over the years, but I'd still appreciate your solutions for this issue:
I've picked up a MKII WK to replace my WB as I've found the CG on the WB a bit high whilst sailing the nearshore Pacific Ocean with its larger swells. A side note on the WB... when I have six adults as ballast, it does ride much better.
I sometimes rent a C270, but that's just a bit O-size for trailering.
In the pics below you'll note the (dark brown) scum line from Lake Tahoe is about a 7 inch differential bow to stern.
The boat was sitting in fresh water. with minimal gear, 1/4 tank of fuel, Honda 9.9 electric start/tilt, water tank ~50%, and the battery moved under the stbd settee.
I will be replacing the Honda with a slightly heavier 9.9 Mercury Pro Kicker and relocating the battery back to the lazarette.
Hi, I have a 250 WB and no water in the fresh tank, as it inconvenient to winterize. I had to counter the balest by adding weight to the bow, on the hull bottom inside, i cheated and used fresh water bottles in bundles also srinked wraped. It flexes, does not shift, and if they burst, it just fresh water in the bilge. David
Indeed it looks like you need a good bit weight in the bow to level her out. Seems like over the years there have been quite a few discussions on this topic. I don't have a WK but on my WB I have a 50lb bag of sand in the forepeak wrapped in a heavy duty garbage bag because I use the aft berth as a garage for stuff, a second battery aft of the primary, and also have a lot of crap in the cockpit lockers. I also keep the water tank full (installed pressure water pump this last winter!!). With that my boat sits perfectly on her lines. on your ruler in the top photo, my water line would be at 6 1/2 inches. I'd be inclined to say that you may need 150lbs of sand bags up there to get leveled out but other WK owners probably know better than I do what's needed.
It appears from the photos that the boat is squatting severely at the stern. The likelihood is that one significant cause is the heavy motor hung on the transom. Changing to a heavier motor will exaggerate the problem.
Very few trailerable sailboats with 9.9 hp motors really need that much power. The drawbacks are that they're heavy to carry when they need servicing, they're heavy to mount and unmount, they require a beefier motor mount, they use more fuel, they cost more to buy and service and they make the boats stern squat.
Sails are capable of making more power than the motor. In the right conditions, sails are capable of driving a sailboat over its own bow wave, reaching speeds faster than the boats hull speed. A 9.9 hp motor can't do that.
If you encounter heavy chop on the bow that is slowing the boats progress, you can help the boat drive through the chop by motorsailing. The sails supplement the motors power. You can motorsail using only the mainsail or using both main and jib.
Realistically, the only thing a 6 hp, 60 lb motor can't do that a 9.9 hp, 105 lb motor can do is drive the boat to hull speed. The 6 can drive it to about 5.5 to 5.7 kts. That's a difference of .5 to .7 kt. To most, that difference is meaningless. I know that because I had a Nissan 6 hp on my Cal 25, which is about the same displacement as a C250 WK. The 6 was more than enough to deal with the river and tidal currents and the chop created by 25 kt winds on the Chesapeake Bay. To the few who regularly encounter strong currents at a pass, the best recourse is to time your entrances and exits with rising, falling or slack tides. The only people to whom that half kt of speed might really be important are the people who have to motor up a river against a very strong current, but, if the current is running faster than your hull speed, a 9.9 won't get you there either.
You might need that 9.9 hp, but the drawbacks are so significant that people should realistically assess their needs.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
David/Scott/Steve/Kemp, Thanks for the collective input... got a great laugh from Scott's post - wishing it was that simple!
Whilst I hope to have a chat with Gerry Douglas @ Catalina Yachts as I did with my "Below the Waterline" article in Mainsheet (Spring 21)... I'm having a problem with the unloaded boat sitting aft heavy to this extreme as delivered.
The unloaded weight is 4200lbs. My 6hp Tohatsu Sailpro on my previous WB weighed in at 78lbs. The current Honda 9.9 is 117lbs, a net gain of 39lbs, and as I mentioned, the 50lb AGM battery is already moved forward from the lazarette to alongside the forward water tank to no avail. Boat specs call for 6hp - 15hp... and I would say the majority of 250s I've seen came with the 9.9. 39 added lbs aft, should not affect a 4200lb boat by 7" of waterline... we're talking adding .009% of boat weight.
I'm not after speed in a 9.9 over the 6hp engine - both with 25" shafts. That little 8.3x6 three bladed prop on the Sailpro is a bit iffy crossing the harbor bar... a 10x7 (or 10x8) 4 blade prop will definitely give a bit more bite, not to mention the two cylinder engine achieves the same boat speed at lower RPM, doesn't vibrate like the single, and is MUCH quieter.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.