Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a 1986 swing keel. It has a block on each side of the base of the mast, one for the main and one for the jib halyard. I would like to change those. They are available from cd but I can’t get the screws loose. They seem totally frozen. Any suggestions? Thanks Dan
As you have found out, Stainless screws that are screwed into aluminum can corrode and lock together. What every boater that works on boats should have in their tool box is an Impact screwdriver. This tool works by hitting the end of the tool with a hammer and it then transfers a sharp twisting motion to the screw to remove it without destroying the screw head.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I agree with Scott about the usefulness of an impact driver. However, I suggest first applying penetrating oil and heat. A soldering iron might be a good way to heat just the screw with minimum risk of starting a fire. A few heat/cool cycles should help loosen some of the corrosion before wailing on it with the impact driver.
PB Blaster... penetrating oil plus I don't know what, but given some time (like a day or two), it can do wonders. Then whack the head of the screw with a hammer (semi-gently).
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
And when you replace them don't forget to use Loctite.
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
Bruce, I am having a senior moment, I can't remember. It's at least 15 years since I last used it...It's whatever stopped the galling.
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
The corrosion created by aluminum contacting stainless steel comes from a galvanic process. I believe that dielectric grease is the answer in this case. Some products are Corrosion Block or Silicone Paste.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.