Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hey all - Defender is having a sale on “cut goods”, like line, wire cable, hose, etc. I’d like to buy some new halyards and I can’t recall whether the C25 uses 5/16” (8mm) or 1/4” line. I’m going for NE Ropes Sta-set polyester. I reckon that 80 ft x 2 or 160ft total should be enough for the halyards for a standard rig with the main led to the cabintop brake, but let me know if I should go a little longer? The jib halyard only needs to go up and down the mast which is about 35ft x 2 or 70 ft.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
You probably could use either size. I believe 5/16" is what I have for both halyards. I tried checking the manuals and parts list we have linked on the Association Board but could not find halyard dimensions. However, Catalina Direct indicates 5/16" for Cat 25s.
Thanks for the detective work. Awhile ago I purchased 3/8” line for the halyards. It doesn’t quite fit in the sheaves so this time I’m double checking (my sanity). I appreciate it!
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Yesterday I purchased 180ft of 5/16” Sta-set double braid for under $1 per foot. Even shipping was reasonable around $7.00. Nice. Now I have to figure out how to splice a loop into the bitter end for my shackle. The tricks of the trade!
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Sorry I didn't see this... The sheaves I put on Passage's masthead when switching to all-rope halyards were for 5/16" lines--3/8" would not work well. 1/4" would, but I felt that was not very nice on the hands. I went with CD's high-tech (extra-low stretch halyards) because the furling jib halyard would be under constant tension all season long, and tension (plus the cheek block on the mast) helps prevent halyard-wraps at the swivel.
You might have seen that I used a couple of bowlines for the shackles--not as elegant, but I guess I'm not that elegant.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I also went the easy route with bowlines. I never tried splicing. If you can do it, probably looks better….then again, once you hoist the sail, hard to see what is attached at the top of the mast.
I looked over my sheets and halyards…They are okay for this year and I have new dock lines I purchased during a past sale - storing them for now up front in my VBerth area. So, I am going to pass on buying any lines this year.
Thanks Dave and Larry for the info. Yesterday I replaced the halyards and did the following: 1. I cut the 5/16” line into two segments: the jib halyard at 70 ft - this reaches up and down the mast with ~8ft to spare for adjustments. And the main halyard is 90ft to reach the cockpit from the mast tabernacle. 2. I inspected the old lines’ splices holding the shackle for the head of the sails. They appeared very much like the marlinspike demos I’ve seen in books and on YouTube. It looks like a lot of fiddly work with little payback. Instead, I tied a very tight bowline around the shackle and fed the bitter end back through the loop and wrapped it to the bight with seizing line so it wouldn’t snag on anything. I could have used a fisherman’s hitch but that was too bulky. The bowline is compact enough for me and you really won’t even see it from the deck.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Now I feel bad that we influenced you to do the bowlines. Ha Ha! I mean if you can tackle doing a splice job, then that's something that many do not do....and even if you can't see what is at the top of the mast when you hoist th sail. - You certainly would know !! Anyway, bowlines work well.
A knock some have against knots as opposed to splices with eyes is that knots tend to weaken the line somewhat, and don't prevent chafe from the shackle. But I'm pretty confident that 5/16" double-braid has plenty of reserve breaking strength for halyards on a 25' boat. And with a bowline, if you want to change the shackle, all you need is a marlin spike--not an extra day to re-do the splice.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Oh no Larry, don’t blame yourself. I actually didn’t see your post until AFTER I finished replacing the halyards, so no harm, no foul! Dave, I think what I might do is get a leftover piece of halyard line and try making a splice. I have a nice 3-1/2”pocketknife with a marlinspike built in, and time to spare on long, boring conference calls. Actually, another way to make a loop is to just make a flat loose loop on the bitter end and tie a lashing around the base of the loop. Add crazy glue (if you want) and it’ll last a long time. Ashley book of knots shows you the technique for making the lashing.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
FWIW if you go to Cajun Ropes (Canadian company) they sell running rigging for our boats -- sets or individual lines -- and with the current exchange rate the price is very low. Great quality, I replaced all my running rigging two years ago.
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.