Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi all... looking for some help from the vast and unpaid research department!
I have a 1989 8HP Suzuki outboard on Andiamo. It runs great but I've noticed the water flow from the telltale is getting weaker so I'm thinking it's time for a new water pump impeller.
I'm having a hard time getting any of the local Suzuki dealers to even talk to me about doing the repairs because the motor is so old. They say they will have to check with the service manager and will get back to me but never do call back.
Parts are still available and I could do it myself but I'm concerned some of the bolts may snap off due to corrosion and I don't have the tools to deal with the bolts that do snap off.
Any suggestions on how to approach this repair or how best to get any corroded bolts to loosen without snapping off?
Gary, If it was me, I probably would be resigned to the fact that a bolt may indeed snap off. While, I have not had the need to remove, redrill for a snapped off bolt, I know there are kits to do it and so I would probably look into what is involved with that first in case you find yourself in that situation. Maybe everything will go okay, wasn’t the impeller changed out in the last 5 years or so? So, it is not like it’s the first time the bolts were removed in the life of the outboard….They may come out without a problem.
I would spray WD-40 or a rust busting spray onto the bolts and let it sit for 5 minutes or whatever they recommend before trying to remove the bolts. You may also want to try heating the adjoining bolt area with a heat gun (not a torch) a few times and then try removing the bolts. Successive heating of the adjoining area(s) with allowing it to cool off each time - The expanding and contracting may help a bit with loosening the rust or set the bolts have taken. In any case, if it doesn’t help it at least should not make it worse to undo.
The fact that you have been able to use this outboard all these years is amazing. Many probably would have replaced the outboard with a new one by now. I thought I read in one of your postings that you were going to sell your boat sometime in near future - If so, then I guess you would not wannt to invest in a new outboard.
The problem with most outboard engines’ bolts is that the bolts are made of stainless steel while the engine components are made of aluminum or other non-ferrous alloys.
Because dissimilar metals create galvanic action, especially when they’re immersed in water, or worse, salt water, the bolts tend to corrode slightly and seize up after awhile.
Heating, freezing (nitrogen), and penetrating/cutting oils all help a lot, as does sheer persistence.
Once you treat the nuts and bolts, your best friend is an impact drill or impact wrench with the exact, proper-fitting hex head socket. The repeated impact may be better than sheer foot-pounds of farce, and can help coax off old bolts more readily.
If you happen to round off any bolts’ heads, a vice-grips or a small pipe wrench will grab the remaining head and you probably can extract the bolt. Tapping on the end of the pliers or wrench can apply impact-like force to the bolt.
Drilling out a busted bolt is something to watch on YouTube. There are several different techniques. Screw extractors work well. Plain-old drill with lots of cooling oil is also a good method.
On my Honda 8 there were four frozen bolts and two frozen alignment pins to work around. I used a very thin blade to separate the bottom unit from the main shaft housing to get to the water pump housing. You might see if you can find an exploded view of the water pump section of your model engine online.
I believe that www.boat.net used to feature these for many engine models.
When reassembling the engine afterwards, use never-seize to protect your threads for next time…
Gary, ... Maybe everything will go okay, wasn’t the impeller changed out in the last 5 years or so?
The fact that you have been able to use this outboard all these years is amazing. Many probably would have replaced the outboard with a new one by now. I thought I read in one of your postings that you were going to sell your boat sometime in near future - If so, then I guess you would not want to invest in a new outboard.
Thank you Larry. I think your idea of of heating and cooling will give me the best chance to get the bolts free without snapping them off.
Actually, I've never changed the impeller. I can motor out and be sailing in 5 - 7 minutes so in all the time I've owned the boat I've maybe put 15 hours on the motor.
This motor has been flawless over all the years. Choke it, pull the rope slowly 3 times, then yank it and it almost always starts on the first pull. Second pull for sure.
My plan is to put her up for sale in the next month. I turned 70 in January and I'm just not using her anymore and someone else could put her to use. If I can get the impeller replaced the motor should last for many more years.
.... Heating, freezing (nitrogen), and penetrating/cutting oils all help a lot, as does sheer persistence.
I believe that www.boat.net used to feature these for many engine models.
When reassembling the engine afterwards, use never-seize to protect your threads for next time…
Thank you Bruce. You've listed some good ideas to help get these bolts loose.
I hadn't thought about the nitrogen to freeze the area around the bolts. Persistence/patience are not my forte, hence looking for a dealer to do the job. LOL
I'll check out boat.net for the parts and diagrams.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.