Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
This time it's a tall-rig story: After two long summers in the sunshine, I finally installed a bimini. Just as others have said, "My only regret is that I didn't do this years ago!"
I've read several wonderful posts about biminis being installed on the standard rigs and people being able to stand up under them. My tall-rig boom is 4-1/2 feet above the cockpit floor and besides, I'm 6'5", so forget that! I can <i>sit </i>under this one though...
Thanks for posting your mod! This looks like the solution I've been looking for. Two quick questions:
1) Is the attachment point at the deck/hull joint simply screwed in the fiberglass or is it through-bolted (with the washer/nut under the lip of the joint)?
2) Is there a 'quick release' at the attachment point where the support rod actually attaches to the mount on the deck for easy removal when you don't want/need the bimini?
Bren, The deck mounts are simply screwed into the fiberglass. It's pretty thick at the deck joint. No reason you couldn't through-bolt them, but I don't think it's necessary. Most of the force on the mount is down towards the deck - and even that's not much.
There's no quick release at the deck mount, but I've been thinking about trying some sort of quick release pin. The mounts come with a self-tapping screw with a shoulder on it. The holes are two different sizes so that the screw slides through one hole and threads into the other. It would be easy enough to drill out the smaller hole for a pin, but you couldn't go back to using screws again. I'll probably switch to a pin on a lanyard as soon as I take out a screw and lose it overboard.
I'm impressed! What you have done is keep the bimini low enough to be very effective in keeping shade on those setting in the cockpit while preserving good visibility to the sails as well as visibility forward. The very flat design offers only a few inches of non visibility forward and has me wondering if this bimini would be great for a wheel as well, ie see over while standing and see under while sitting.
I love the simplicity of not dealing with the mainsheet and backstay.
Could you post the dimensions from the cockpit sole to the under and over surfaces at the boat center line? I do use an elevated platform on the fuel locker to sit on so wouldn't want to be looking directly at the cross section of the bimini... I'm thinking I'd be looking over but the dimensions would verify.
Thanks for the info. I agree with Arlyn; since I, too, have a wheel this may be the solution for shade, ease of installation and visiblity from the helm. Looks from your pictures like the size you bought is an EXACT fit. Any chance that the six foot length top would fit? I'm guessing there wouldn't be enough room between the mainsheet and the backstay.
While looking through the West Marine site I found WM part # 394025 which is a Taylor 'quick release pin'. I assume this would work as you suggested if you were to drill out the hole for the screw.
As luck would have it (and I am convincing my wife that this is a sign), yesterday after I read your initial post I got a WM flyer in the mail that says the Taylor biminis go on sail next week!
Hope I don't have to wait 'til Christmas to open it up!!!
Dave you night try a thumbscrew for easy removal. WM has them see page 600. I have a simple quick pin on my bimini, both for the sailboat and the powerboat and have never had a problem in 20 years with it coming out.
Arlyn: I know it's no more than 55" to the top of the bimini, because that's the distance to the bottom side of the boom - which clears. I'll get the exact measurements (top & bottom) this week.
Bren: The 4-footer just fits. I considered a 5-footer, but would have had to move where the mainsheet attaches to the boom forward quite a bit. The mid-rail stanchion is designed so the mainsheet slides across it when the boom is sheeted out. I was concerned that moving the mainsheet forward enough to allow for a longer bimini would move it off the mid-rail stanchion and onto the lifeline.
If there any other pictures - camera angles/close-ups - you'd like, I can get those when I take the height measurements this week. Just let me know.
Thanks for the pictures. I am now thinking of reinstalling my bimini. I really like the way yours fits and looks. I have a WK with wheel and dealing with my bimini is a nightmare putting on and taking off. Thanks again for sharing.
Nice one Dave! I've been looking for a sunshade for our boat and I think you showed us the solution to our backstay/stern-seats/traveler and sunburn problem.
Couldn't help but notice that the foot of your main is out of the track. Is that intentional? That could cause some serious wear and tear not to mention horrendous performance.
The loose-footed main really powers up in light air. I can still flatten it pretty well with the out-haul when the wind picks up. The clew is attached to a big fat steel slug in the boom, which handles the strain.
After learning about this from Arlyn (http://www.stewartfam.net/arlyn/loose.html) I tried an experiment one day in light winds, on a reach in the middle of the Chesapeake: I luffed the main, unhooked the out-haul, and slid the main's bolt rope out. Then I reconnected the outhaul - all in about three minutes. When I trimmed the main again, I was going about a knot faster. I've had it rigged this way for a couple of years now and recommend it. If you try it, make sure you have a hefty slug/slide/whatever at the clew.
Was at my boat today and did some measuring. I see what you mean about the four footer being the biggest that will fit between the mainsheet and the backstay. Looks like that will be the one I go for. BTW, when I measured the height above the cockpit floor from where the distance between the mainsheet and backstay is four feet, I get approx 54 inches. With that height it appears that I can at the wheel and still see forward underneath the top.
I'm glad you took the time to post your project. Thanks again! I'll let you know how mine turns out.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The loose-footed main really powers up in light air. I can still flatten it pretty well with the out-haul when the wind picks up. The clew is attached to a big fat steel slug in the boom, which handles the strain. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
That sounds fantastic! Heading out now to give it a try. Winds are light 5-7kts.
Here are the measurements Arlyn asked for: Measured along the cockpit centerline, there's 54" from the cockpit sole to the underside of the fore and aft bows. (There's about a 2" lip of extra material that hangs down off the front and back that's not in this measurement.) There's 57" from the cockpit sole to the top of the middle bow (highest of the three and located aft of the boom). So, looking forward from the fuel locker, your view is blocked from 52" above the cockpit sole to 57". (I'm including that 2" flap in the cross-section.)
Bren: I discovered Taylor Made makes quick release pins for the deck mounts. They come with wire halyards. West Marine has 'em for $20 a pair. I'm sticking with the screws until I lose 'em.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.