Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have finally traced down the leak in the port locker of my C25. This spring there was evidence of at least several gallons of dirty water that had accumulated in the locker and overflowed into the bilge. Consequently there was mildew in the locker and elsewhere. After cleaning everything up I went to find the leak. Many buckets of water later I had found no leaks among all the usual suspects. So naturally, I opened a beer and sat back to rest and think. I realized that dirty water probably was not coming in through a leaky fitting, but there was a lot of dirt on the floor of the cockpit over the winter and a leak through the drain (scupper?) would explain everything. I plugged the drains and added two buckets of water and found the leak. Now what? Is there any way to get bedding caulk behind the brass drain shoulders where they meet the fiberglass of the transom? Has anyone had success with applying caulk around the drains on the outside?
I see no one has jumped in and ansured this post so here we go. You can replace the corroded tubes with what ever you find that fits the same size hole. PVC is a good choice and wont corrode. Seal them in place with 3M 4200 or Life caulk. You can also leave the old ones in place and seal them with white caulk. Best of luck.
Don: Wait's vintage (and mine) have drains through the transom, with flared brass tubes.
Wait: The most likely source is at the edge of the brass tube at the inside of the transom, by the cockpit sole. I'd suggest some flowable silicone such as Capt. Tolley's Kreeping Crack Cure. (Really.) When everything's dry, let a little of that go where the water has been going--primarily around the lower part of the inside flange. A little caulk on the fingertip can help, but since it stays on the surface, it won't last very long.
I thought about putting PVC pipes in the holes, but suspect they would raise the waterline of the drain by just enough to be not very satisfactory.
I haven't experienced this problem yet but since my boat is an '83 it's only a matter of time. One possible repair I've been toying around with is to remove both of the the rolled tubes and replace them with two threaded marelon through hull fittings (without seacocks). A threaded flange in the cockpit would need to be cut to shape out of round in order that they fit against the groove in the cockpit floor so the through hulls would need to be screwed in from the transom side while the flattened flanges, being imobile would keep the whole thing from spinning. Naturally sealant would be applied to both the transom and cockpit flanges and the threaded marelon would be trimmed to fit flush.
Mark: I just remembered that I saw a Marelon (or other plastic) flange with a flat, tapered side that appeared to be just for that purpose--at a West store. You'd probably have to expand the diameter of the holes in the transom so the tube is low enough. Now you've got me thinking...
PS: It might be the "Marine East L-Head, Barbed" fitting--"Ideal for draining compartments."
Dave, I'm working on another invention which would allow two people to talk to each other over long distances by using handsets connected by a system of wires. When one individual calls another, a bell will ring to alert the recipient that someone wants to contact them.
I'm planning on calling it the talkaphone but please keep it under your hat since I haven't worked out all the details nor have I applied for patent protection.
Heres how you fix the problem for sure. What you are dealing with is three layers of GRP and one layer of plywood (at least on my 1987 boat) from the inside of the cockpit to the outside of the transom. None of them are thick enough to be truly ridgid. Thats why the brass tubes leak. Also they are about 1/2 inch above the sole which means that there is always water standing to corrode the tubes. The fix is simple. Take a piece of glass cloth about 8 inches wide and put it around a pipe or tube of appropriate size to be a cockpit drain, I used 1 1/2 inch pipe, wrap about three layers with waxed paper between the first layer ofBeen glass and the pipe. Wet it out with epoxy. Let cure. Cut into two pieces 4 inches long. Measure OD and find or borrow a hole saw that size plus about 1/8. Cut old tubes out by tapping a piece of wood into them to center the hole saw. Cut low enough to remove the 1/2 inch water trap. Mix epoxy and coloidal silica and putty the tubes neatly into place. Let cure. Trim tubes to length and paint to protect the resin from sun. If I can figure out how to put pictures on here I will show you the result. Been tight and dry for three years. Dave
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.