Association Forum - bottom sanding

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

bottom sanding

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

Member Avatar

Canada
1314 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/08/2004 : 13:58:41

My 1995 C250 WB hull 151 is since one week in a salt water slip marina with a waxed uncoated bottom for a period of approx 4 months. My question is:
1)Does the bottom of a 1995 Catalina 250 #151 need to be sanded before applying 2 coats Micron CSC undercoating?
What is the advantage or disadvantage
2) What is suggested to protect the metal ballast valve... paint this as well or...
3) What is the suggested procedure to protect the swing keel chain/pulley system. Paint this too?
4) Is it a good idea to attach to the (ballast tank valve, keel chain/pullyes) an inboard clip-on electrical cord to be placed overboard with a zinc component in the water.
According to some the marina is hot whatever that means
Thank you very much in advance

Thanks in advance

Henk & Johanna
"Floating", a few off your "barnacles".
"Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016)
"Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018)
"Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023)
"Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)

Edited by - on

D Wrate
1st Mate

Members Avatar

38 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2004 : 17:17:10

FWIW, I applied 3 coats of CSC to a basically bare bottom

not waxed mind you but so little of the old bottom paint remined that it was basically bare.. I sanded roughly with a 80grit foam sanding block and water and rolled the paint on.

I live on Vancouver Island and have moderatley heavy fouling water. The bottom is very clean with only minimal slime buildup.

David

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
5895 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2004 : 19:09:55

Before you start sanding, wait for some C250 owners to reply. I think Catalina recommends against sanding the C250, and that it voids their warranty against blisters.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
5895 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2004 : 17:10:09

Henk,

I just checked the C-250 Owner's Manual, which is reproduced elsewhere on this website. Under the heading of "Bottom Painting," it says:

"Catalina 250's, have a blister resistant gel coat. Special precautions must be used when preparing this bottom for painting. Thoroughly remove the wax from the bottom using a dewaxing @ cleaner, following the manufacturers instructions. Use "no sand" type primer or lightly "scuff" sand with 120 grit paper to prepare the bottom for painting. improper bottom preparation will void your Catalina Yachts Gel Coat Five Year Limited Warranty

Anti-fouling paint should be applied to the bottom of your Catalina 250 if it is to be moored in either fresh or salt water for any length of time. There are many brands available. Anti-fouling paint prevents the growth of algae, barnacles, end other fouling organisms on underwater surfaces."

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2004 : 19:18:55

Thank you Steve:
Your information is very timely, I'm planning to start the work in the marina at Point Roberts, Washington next week Monday or Tuesday morning.
Any suggestions regarding the other questions?
Thank you in advance
Henk Grasmeyer

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
5895 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2004 : 19:42:05

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Any suggestions regarding the other questions?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> I'll make my best guesses. I wouldn't paint a depth sounder transducer, or a speedometer paddle wheel, or any moving parts, such as the keel pulley chain system. I would paint anything else that is continuously immersed, unless it looks like the operation of the device might be fouled by paint.

I suggest you check the C-250 Owner's Manual, and see if it has a section that discusses zincs or electrolysis. A "hot marina" is a marina that has an unusual amount of stray electrical currents in the waters. They aren't usually enough to be dangerous, but they can harm electrical or metal parts.

For some reason, the usual C250 experts aren't weighing in on this thread. Maybe "bottom sanding" isn't an intriguing enough topic to capture their attention. You might try re-posting it, with the title "bare bottom."

Edited by - on

frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2004 : 21:47:12

Steve is correct about the Warranty, but since you are past that point you have the option of sanding or not sanding. IMHO, I would not sand the bottom if it never had anything but wax on it. I'd wash the bottom with acetone, making sure you use plenty of rags so you don't move the wax from one place to another, then paint with two coats of sandless primer and two coats of whatever antifouling paint you prefer. WM carries this type of primer and am sure you can find it other places since almost all boat manufactures will void the warranty if you put sand paper to a new gelcoat bottom.
This is lots of work, but I am sure you will get great pleasure from the finished product.

Edited by - on

Dkn420
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
298 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2004 : 01:34:00

Zeil: I received the following email from Kent Nelson at Catalina and I think it is in line with Jerry's suggestions...

"Danny,
I have not used the Interlux VC17m on a boat and am not familiar with it, but I have seen the adds in Sailing World and it looks like a good product for preventing fowling in fresh water applications. I would read it's instructions as far as hull prep goes, as our hulls are pretty invincible. You may want to use a no sand primer to remove the mold release, but again check their instructions. I have seen that it is a good idea to sand the faired keel with 100 grit before applying the antifoulant so you might want to do that too. Hope this gives you some more direction.

Good Sailing,
Kent"

Hope that helps...Dan #727

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 07/12/2004 : 11:07:12

Thank you all for the information provided.
The boat will be hauled this afternoon and the work will start. The plan is to de-wax, then scuff the bottom with 100 and 120 grid and apply two coats of Micron CSC directly to the hull, centre board, rudder and all underwater fixed metal parts. I plan to install 2 new hard plastic washers on the centre board hinge as spacers between the trunk and centre board as well as glue 2" wide 6" long by 1/2 thick wedges using 3m5200 to eliminate clonking when the centre board is in an up position.
BTW I could not find any washers as centre board spacers, instead I bought 2 inch by 1/8 thick furniture leg sliding disc with a 2500 lbs load capacity. I hope that they will do the job
Any suggestions/advise is very welcome

Edited by - on

mday
Navigator

Members Avatar

197 Posts

Response Posted - 07/15/2004 : 01:51:36

Zeil,

I have a WB that I keep in the water (fresh water for me) and had the bottom painted with Micron CSC. Your plan sounds like a good one. My initial paint job didn't hold up -- I suspect because not enough wax was removed. It's really important to get the surface prep done well -- don't skimp on time and materials there. The second application seems to be holding up well. It's been about 2 years, though ..... may be time to repaint soon!

Good luck with it. Hope you'll be sailing soon!

Max

Max

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 07/16/2004 : 14:22:26

Thank you all for the help and information provided.
Well the work is completed and the hull has been de-waxed with 202, scuffed horizontal, vertical, and diagonally with 100 grid sand paper, de-waxed again with 202 fiberglass cleaner and painted with two coats of. micron CSC. During this process the keel was removed and repaired.
The last time the boat was launched from the trailer, we forgot to fasten the keel in an upright position causing the keel to hit the trailer's lower cross bar and taking a 2 inch by 6 inch fiberglass bite out of the keel bottom tip... Outch @#$&^%$$$!! It also caused cracks of the fiberglass around the hole of the keel's suspension mechanism which was discovered only after removing the keel from the boat. The two damaged areas have been repaired by the yard's mechanic and are in great shape again.
Before mounting the keel again we de-waxed, scuffed again 2x de-waxed the inside of the entire trunk and applied two coats of paint as well.
While the keels suspension was detached from the boat we had holes drilled and tapped in one of the suspension mounting block for the attachment of a sacrificing zinc block. It seemed the right thing to do although no concluding answer was given to the question of opposing metal reaction of these components.
Further I intend to attach an alligator clip atttached to a no 10 wire with a zinc dropped dropped overboard to protect the ballast tank valve and the keel haul-up components from corrosion proplems. No, I did not coat/paint these items... Any advise??
Before the keel was attached we greased the pivot pin and the inside of the suspension blocks and added a total of 4 thin neoprene washers to the 2 exisitng plastic washers. This has eliminated all play and lets the centerboard travel freely up and down. The 4 keel suspension bolts were coated with a fast setting epoxy of some sort to eliminate water penetration and vibration problems. The cable, pulley and turning block looked to be in good condition so these items were not replaced.

Just some notes that perhaps someone on the forum is able to answer regarding placement of the haul in/out lift straps.... as well as the proper location of the yard's stand hull support locations. We lived on board during the 3 maintenance and repairs days and listened constantly for crackels and squekies and hull deformation. Any/all suggestion would be welcome for future reference.

By doing the work, obtaining information from the forum and boat yard people, as well as spending time looking things over I wish to express my appreciation to all. We tackled the work with far more confidence. We also have more appreciation for the design, solidness and simplicity of the 1995 C250 hull 151

Please feel free to contact us should you have any questions regarding the above experience
BTW I took lots of illustrating pictures but have problems posting them on the forum

Edited by - on

Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 07/17/2004 : 13:02:24

I will weigh in on the cracks and squeekies.....As the Catalina 250 does not have a large heavy keel there is not a lot of "meat" in the lower parts, so all I can suggest is to use plenty stands with large pads, and to be gentle on her when on the hard. I have not heard anything when on the trailer.

Oscar, at Grandma and Grandpa's house.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.