Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a 1997 8hp xls that runs great, however, during the last trip the green oil pressure light went out. Usually, the light is brightly lit and indicates that you have sufficient oil pressure. I was in the middle of a four hour cruise and in very light air fighting a strong current so I decided to press on after checking to make sure I had oil and the engine wasn't overheating. Other then some rough idling the engine seems fine.
I took it into the local Honda dealer who warned of an expensive repair if the oil pump needed replacement. I received a call today from the dealer with good news. He said that they can see a "very dim" light and so it's working and not to be concerned. While I was hoping for something easy like a burned out bulb this leaves me perplexed. So in an effort to not be a "dim wit" and ruin my engine I'm asking Is there a reason why the bulb is so dimly lit and what the fix might be. Ray Clift buzz 1361 Oregon
I would think the dealers mechanic should know why. If not I would be looking for another shop to service my engine. That said think about getting the engine manual. Look at what powers the light. Look for a bad connection or if there is one a bad oil presure switch. Its got to be a simple system. Hope its a simple fix.
I can only see this light in very dim conditions (ie. night or early morning before dawn).
The rough idling can probably be fixed by adjusting the idle mixture. You will see a little socket with a Y shaped screw down inside on the right side of the engine on the carb. This is just below the idle speed adjuster. With the engine running at idle, slowly turn this screw into and out of the socket until you find the point where the idle smooths out and speeds up. For me, it is when the screw is about 1/8 inch into the socket. Since the idle has now sped up, back off the idle speed a little with the stop screw. It is best to have the boat in gear for this, pushing forward against snug docklines.
The Honda will idle very slow (although a little rough) and I find I can motor along at 0.5 knots at idle. This slow speed makes docking a breeze.
I am not sure what is meant in the postings above by a "rough idle". My 9.9 XLS idles quietly but with vibration of the power head, as one might expect from a two-cylinder motor. This spring it became rough and irregular. Some simple things I learned to check for rough idle:
The plugs. Replacing mine this year made a major difference.
The fuel line and filter. Restricted fuel flow can cause lots of vibration and roughness.
One other thing to check (esp. with older Hondas) is the coolant flow, esp. when used in salt water. It is really key to give it a good run in fresh water one in a while, and at season's end I use a mix of water and radiator flush, and then run it with clean fresh water for a good half hour. The water jacket can corrode and become quite restricted, and that will lead to overheating and rough idle.
In all, though, I love my Honda. I operate in areas where there are major currents and reefs, and I need a motor I can really depend on. It starts first touch of the button every time (except when I forget to put the emergency shutoff clamp in place before pushing "go"!
I agree with you Doug that the mechanic ought to have known what the problem is. I have the motor serviced after each sailing season by this dealer and have had good experiences. Based on how the engine was running they were convinced that it was a loose or corroded wire and didn't want to dig much deeper and they thougt they were doing me a favor to save me the money. The motor had its first taste of salt water this summer and I've noticed a lot more corrosion around the electrical connections so wouldn't be surprised if that were the problem with the pressure light. That said, I still would like it fixed and they promised to look a little deeper for a solution By rough idle I meant that several times while motoring at idle speed (usually getting into the slip) it simply sputters and stops. This is a problem I've dealt with since the motor was new. If I set up the idle speed I'm way to fast for docking and have to toggle back and forth from neutral to forward and if I slow it down it sputters. I'll give Jim's method of setting the mixture a try and see if it helps. As always I appreciate your collective wisdom. Thanks! Ray Buzz 1361 Oregon
The Honda 8 Classic is a great motor... but there is a hint provided by the new Honda 8 that tells a story.
The new Honda is advertised to idle considerably slower... and uses an above the water idle exhaust port to accomplish it.
I'm wondering two things... Are you trying to set the idle below specs and is there any marine growth or crud around the exhaust holes that might be increasing the back pressure?
Also, you said your motor was a Honda '97 8 hp xls... would you verify that as I wasn't aware they built that model 8 hp in an xls? The long is 22.5" and an xls would be 25" or longer. I'm curious... as when I called Honda Marine in Atlanta, the lady told me the Honda 8 Classic was again offered and available in reg and long.
Thanks for the advice Arlyn. I bought the motor in 99 but was told by the dealer it was a 97. (still in the crate) The manual is down at the boat but I think it was either 27.5 or 28.5 inches long.
A verification would be nice... I had hoped for a long time that Honda would offer an XLS version of that motor... and kept watching their web site for a listing of it. Of course its possible that the web site didn't reflect the availability.
In fact thats true right now... the web site does not list the Honda 8 Classic which was reintroduced this year and available in the reg and long.
I always toggle back from neutral to forward when approaching and docking. That's not a problem. I enter the fairway in neutral at 0.5 knots (if it's a cross wind, faster). If the boat gets too slow (starts losing steering or develops leeway) I put it in forward and count 5 seconds. Then back to neutral. Repeat if necessary. I enter the slip coasting in neutral, barely moving. I stop the motor, step off on the starboard side and grab a hold to stop the boat. Engaging reverse doesn't do much.
If there's strong winds you have to do everything at a little higher speed, and keep the boat pointed slightly into the wind during the approach.
By all means, adjust the idle mixture in the water with the engine in gear (the dealer can't do that) crank up the idle until the motor doesn't stall, and be prepared to shift between forward and neutral while docking.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.