Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have only done it once but I found it was much easier to only pull the boat up on the trailer far enough to drain the ballast tank. The extra weight made it difficult to get it to settle forward on the bunks. Once it was empty and the drain closed I backed up just enough to barely float. It went up on the trailer very easily then.
Tray, Following one of Arlyn's post's. Blow the ballast before trying to put boat on trailer, I've done this a couple of times by useing an old vacumn cleaner, opening the vent in the anchor compartment and then opening the water ballast inlet valve, don't start pumping air until both valves are open. Then blow air in through the vent until you see bubbles coming from the bottom of the boat, you wont get it all out but a good share of it will come out. Then close both valves until boat is out of the water. "Bear" on Brandy splashed last weekend in The Great Sacandaga Lake in upstate N.Y. C250 "089 WB
I've done it a few times now, and have discovered that it all depends on the slope of the ramp, and the tide. (Although somehow I seem to remember you're on a lake...) Either way, ramps end, they have lips, edges. Keep an eye on the trailer as you go in, you can tell if the first axle goes over the edge, cause if they both go it can be a bear getting the trailer back out. At that point don't even try it with the boat on..... If at all possible get some local knowledge as to where the thing ends....because with the 18 foot extension your can sometimes find the end. Bottom line is that you need to get the trailer under water, on pavement, untill the roller under the bow is just under.......
Then you can winch it into the v's..........
If you can't get the above scenario going, then indeed, get her on as far as you can, drive up a little, drain the ballast tank, close the valve, go back in and then you can lift/crank the bow on the roller.
I plan on researching the "blow the tanks" scenario. The vacuum cleaner is interesting, but needs 110V, there are 12v compressors, although I don't know if their volume would be significant enough. There's also the portable bottles (available at car parts stores/Home Depot that you fill at home with the compressor....everyonbe has one right? You could also fill it at a gas station.....I will report back on these experiments.
If it all sounds too complicated, just make sure you go to a nice new deep ramp with a good pitch, and you'll be able to back in, get the bow roller just under, keep the vehicle on the dry, and pull her out no problem.
Tray; My two cents on blowing the balast. We have done it a number of times, I use a Sevlor air pump, one made for an inflatible boat. The hose only needed a couple of wraps of plastic tape to make it fit snugly in the air vent hole in the chain locker. I open the drain valve and put a scrap piece of rug or towel under the pump. The rug is to keep the pump from sliding all over the place. I find that it takes about 7 minutes to pump the water out. Interestingly enough it also takes about the same time if you drain it by pulling the boat out of the water on the trailer, it also takes about 7 minutes to fill. Good luck. Bill c250wb Serendipity
The pump should be a high volume low pressure variety. High pressure and forgetting to open the ballast valve could be a problem.
Only thing I would add to what Bill said is, if crew is available, have them hold down slightly on the valve shaft to seat the seal and prevent air leaking out around the valve rod shaft.
>High pressure and forgetting to open the ballast valve could be a problem.<
Yeah, there you go, got the compressor hooked up, 120PSI, suddenly.....crack..... whoosh......glub glub glub.......try explaining that to the insurance man........<img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>
I like the foot pump idea.....I'm on my way to the discount house of worship...(Walmart)......<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
I have to make a comment, not about the ballast but about Oscars last post,....... I love that photo!!!!!!!! My compliments to you or the friend that took that shot.
Thank you...that was the recent boys outing on the Chesapeake. My friend took it from his Santana 2023. As you know, when two sailboats are going the same direction...it's a race, period. He tried to catch me for four hours, and we stayed exactly in the same relative position. He's a former J-24 national sailor, so needless to say I was pleased. I think I'm starting to get her "tuned". Turns out our two boats have very similar, and in some areas identical PHRF ratings...(around 222). What the picture doesn't show, is that we had started the day in 25 knots plus, and at this time finally had gotten to 10-15 and were able to shake the reefs. The temperature in the shot is in the mid fifties.......
I had a nice ramp with plenty of water, but the pitch may have been too steep. I just couldn't get the bow up high enough to get over the bow bunk (I don't have a roller). So I decided to use the tongue extension. It came out about 10" and jammed. But it was enough to get the boat on the trailer, but not before ripping the running lights off the bow pulpit. Luckily, just the plastic parts broke. I replaced it for less the 20 bucks. I was able to get the boat out and parked in the dry storage lot without further incident.
The trailer manufacturer is sending someone out to look at the tongue extension. It won't budge either direction.
I think emptying the ballast tanks would've helped because when I launched on Sunday, she floated off without a hitch. I could have easily reeled her back in sitting as high as she was.
Sounds like you had an exciting day....think of all the poor slobs on the couch flippin' channels eating cheese doodles......they missed all the fun. Do you have the trailrite trailer? I found (on my new one) that despite being galvanized the extension rusts where it sits in the sleeve. Mine wasn't sliding too smooth either. Wire brush and grease took care of the problem, but since water sits there after splashing I suspect it will have to be done on a regular basis.
Did you try the big hammer? Use it on the end without the hitch. Also, do I read between the lines that you used the extension in the position where it was stuck when you pulled out the boat? Were there any pins in it?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.