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Minor 250 WB items....

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Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/18/2003 : 15:39:27

Hello,

After a good 60+NM sail on the Chesapeake in 10-25 knots (more on that in adjacent thread(s)), a couple of notes....

The 110 jib fairleads ended up in the most forward position, where they seemed to provide the best sail shape, speed. As this is the biggest sail usable, that makes the rest of the track useless. Guess it's there for similarity of production of the 250WB-250WK. Any input on fairlead position?

After some breaking in, the main halyard cleat does not hold the halyard anymore. Every so often the halyard slips through with a loud bwangggg!!! "what was that?" I ended up bringing it back up the mast and cleating it off.......Am I the only one?

As discussed before on this forum, the furling system is, say, less than optimum. To the known issues with it I would like to add that everything, including the halyards is the same ^&@)# color (blue/white).....that really makes it interesting sitting up there in 6 foot waves trying to sort things out with the sail bunched up in reef(s) and lines coming and going everywhere.......

The little pouches that velcro around the mastfoot are only still on board because they hung up on a stanchion on their way overboard........they're useless, unless I screw them to the mast. For right now all the bitter ends go down the hatch into the cabin......

I guess I'll buy a pile of hardware and start getting things set up right, probably aft to the cockpit while we're at it........first I need to go find some BU's......<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

Does anyone have pictures of how they attached blocks to the foot of the mast as a start to bringing things aft? How about the flat block (organizer) placement? Stoppers? I hope to bring everything to the two cabin top winches, so I don't have to buy more of those......Are there any old threads that discuss this subject in depth?

Oscar
<img src="http://www.woodenshoemusic.com/Images/familypics/LKforumshot.jpg" border=0>
Lady Kay 250 WB #618
In the driveway in Behtlehem, PA ready to go anytime.

Edited by - Oscar on 05/18/2003 15:48:02

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Bryan Beamer
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1038 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2003 : 19:01:52

My 2000wk came with everything run to the cockpit. I sure I have some pictures of the mast base and blocks. I will look and post them.

Bryan Beamer
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df05b3127cce93a99ec449080000001010" border=0>
Daylight Again
C250wk #495

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2003 : 21:11:45

If you sail prior to moving lines aft... here are some suggestions that seem to work for me.

1. The donky back pack has only been used on my boat once... I much prefer hauling the halyard tight then coiling and stuffing the coil between the mast and the halyard just above the cleat. This however contributes to a problem easily fixed by #2.

2. Rig an anti fouling line for the jib sheets. This is a piece of bungee running from the stanchion base eyes for the baby stays up to a position on the mast about where the whisker pole eye is. In fact, that is what I run thru. Use plastic sister clips on the ends that will snap onto the eyes. The jib sheets lay over this A frame line and slide away from the mast and potential fouling. Unsnap when not sailing as part of the prep work for securing at anchorage or dock so its not tripped over in the middle of the night. If you don't run your halyards aft and remove the mast base cleats... you might swear that the anti fouling line was the simplest... yet best upgrade.

3. Reef lines need to be a different color for each reef and of course different than the halyards.

4. Unless a sail management system is intended down the road... consider self storing sail ties. They consist of two cheek blocks at ends of port side of boom with an eyestrap centered and the beckets towards each other. Bungee routes from the becket of one thru the block of the other, back thru the first block and terminating at the becket of the 2nd. On the starboard underside of boom are two hammock hooks each spaced half way between a cheek block and the mid boom eye strap. No more hunting sail ties or trying to communicate with the helmsman while holding them in clenched teeth, etc.

Note: this system does require remembering to run reefing gaskets under the three runs of bungee. I also stack the 2nd reef quite often over the 1st... no problem.

5. Increase the comfort factor of going onto the coach roof in six foot swell by loose footing the main. Doing so provides better outhaul shaping of the main as well as provides a very comforting hand rail.

6. Spend some time to determine exactly how long sheets, reefing lines, outhaul, topping lift, halyards, vang, etc. need to be. Get rid of the excess.

Not so simple is going to be dealing with the furler and the reacher. Quite frankly... anyone contemplating using a reacher on their c250 ought to specify the CDI furler rather than the Shaefer. For two reasons. One, the jib halyard is not used with the CDI and therefore is always available for the reacher. To add another halyard for the reacher throws another line in the mix. And, the Shaefer unit requires a turning block or eye strap down from the masthead which is not friendly to tacking the reacher. The reacher from Ulman is cut quite close to the mast truck and stem fittings. It may in fact be necessary to apraise Ulman of the use of the Shaefer furler and work out a solution or consider using a cruising spinnaker rather than a reacher.

Jib sheet fairleads. Early 250s (being all water ballast and having 110's) had short tracks and when the wing keel started production and tracks were lengthened for the 150's... it was felt that longer tracks would enable the 110 to be twisted off better in heavier air to reduce heeling so they were incorporated on the water ballast starting in '97 I think. I believe the longer tracks might be helpful in heavier air... but moving the cars when winds build is harder than taking in a couple of turns on the furler... and more than likley moving them aft would just precede some reefing in heavier air and that would require moving them back forward... so its simpler just to take the turns of reef to start with which will have the effect of both reducing sail and twisting off the remaining jib.

Halyard cleats letting go. This happens to me on my drifter ocassionally using the jib halyard. I upsized the main halyard one size to I think 3/8 and it has never let loose.

Arlyn C-250 W/B #224
<img src="http://www.stewartfam.net/arlyn/rr.jpg" border=0>
N/E Texas and Great Lakes

[url="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/"]Arlyn's C250 Mods n Cruisin Stories[/url]

Edited by - arlyn stewart on 05/19/2003 21:22:05

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Tray
Navigator

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Namibia
224 Posts

Response Posted - 05/24/2003 : 20:52:35

Oscar,

I ran my lines aft. You can see how I did it in the tech tips. I have since upgraded the clutches.

Tray
C-250WB #554
"Weeny Bean"
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3da37b3127cce963eb621ece90000001010" border=0>

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