Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My WB is a 1995 which is an early model per Russ's previous post. I purchased new sails several years ago from Catalina Direct and worked with their technical support to figure out the required changes. It took a local machine shop, some help from the local boat yard and a friend who is very knowledgeable in doing boat mods to implement this. Here is a link to the diagram Catalina Direct provided to make the 135 sails work. https://www.mywebquilter.com/amberwaves/C-250%20Deck%20Hardware%20for%20135%20or%20150%20genoajpg.pdf
I followed the diagram pretty closely. The only major change I made is mounting a padeye instead of a cheek block. I attached a ratchet block to the padeye. The mounting point for the padeye is reachable from the interior via the standard port holds in the liner. The padeye is mounted on a block of marine grade HDPE to raise it up. I have used this setup for several years and it works well. I just installed new self tailing winches by the helm so am looking forward to trying them out this season. Still waiting for the ice to melt off the lake up here!
I'm not sure if I have a 2003 or 2004 wing keel. I have the longer track, inboard standing rigging and a 135 jib. The close haul sheeting angle isn't perfect but after sailing a few times I decided I could live with it. Another consideration of the 135 and inboard rigging is that there is a point where you have to route the lines outside the standing rigging to avoid chaffing.
1988 C25 Wing Keel Std Rig Tohatsu 9.9 Tiller Steering and 2003 C250 Wing Keel Std Rig Inboard Diesel Wheel Steering
I'm not sure if I have a 2003 or 2004 wing keel. I have the longer track, inboard standing rigging and a 135 jib. The close haul sheeting angle isn't perfect but after sailing a few times I decided I could live with it. Another consideration of the 135 and inboard rigging is that there is a point where you have to route the lines outside the standing rigging to avoid chaffing.
Let me clarify. Here’s a photo from the original sales brochure (see the Manuals & Brochures on the left menu). This is a 1995 “early model” water ballast with a 110% jib Notice the chainplates are at the deck/hull joint and the jib sheets are run inside of the shouds. If you have an early model, you can use Amber’s drawing to add hardware to use a bigger jib.
All winged-keels models and later water-ballast models have the chainplates on the cabin top. Those models can use either a 110% or 135% jib without any hardware changes.
With the 135 on my boat the close hauled sheeting angle isn't great. I rigged a barber hauler using a little car on the old jib tracks to pull in the foot of the sail. I use this when I am racing :)
Ok, now something I’ve never heard of. A barber hauler. I googled it but still unsure how to rig it.
quote:Originally posted by alippold
With the 135 on my boat the close hauled sheeting angle isn't great. I rigged a barber hauler using a little car on the old jib tracks to pull in the foot of the sail. I use this when I am racing :)
Here’s a link to a recent post. The photo inside the cabin, shows the supports under the cabin top chain plates. These supports are installed on all wing-keel models and the later water-ballast models. The early water ballast models (like Amber’s) wouldn’t have these supports.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.