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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a tiny bit of moisture inside the foredeck deadlight and want to recaulk the edges. Any recommendation? I know it’s best to avoid silicone. It appears solidly attached, and I don’t think I need to fully rip it out and re-bed but just run a small bead along the edges. Thanks!
“Lucky Duck” - ‘87 C25 Trad. SR/WK #5588 Whiskeytown Lake, CA
Life seal is the go to for bedding plastics to fiberglass and is what I used when I replaced my dead light. Without knowing what sealant was used on your boat I can't recommend a product because they might not be compatible. Slapping one type of sealant on top of another that might or might not be compatible with each other could make things worse.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Last year I used some exterior acrylic caulk from my house renovation project to seal the gaps in my portlights. It worked pretty well for a season - kept the rain out. It’s not permanent but it’s inexpensive and didn’t harm anything. I did it again this year and so far, so good.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Life seal is the go to for bedding plastics to fiberglass and is what I used when I replaced my dead light. Without knowing what sealant was used on your boat I can't recommend a product because they might not be compatible. Slapping one type of sealant on top of another that might or might not be compatible with each other could make things worse.
Thanks! I’m leaning toward LifeSeal based on what I’m hearing.
“Lucky Duck” - ‘87 C25 Trad. SR/WK #5588 Whiskeytown Lake, CA
I just went through this project and looked at West marine and home Depot. Found a DAP sealant that was designed for exterior, harsh environments at Home Depot that worked great. As my gaskets were black, I went with that color. This wildest likely be an ongoing maintenance issue however, maybe not annually but every couple of years.
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
Any caulking material applied externally will eventually degrade in UV exposure. LifeSeal is supposed to be pretty good, but you can't expect it to be permanent. When it's completely covered under a UV-blocking surface, like under the flanges of a piece of deck hardware, it can last a long time (slight degradation occurs at the edge exposed to the environment, but it progresses inward very slowly). But as a bead applied to the outer edge of a joint it has no protection from UV exposure, so it will break down and eventually have to be replaced. The only real issue is how long it'll last (and up there at Whiskeytown you might only get a few years, Lucky, if you're still watching this thread).
A more important issue is adhesion between the caulking material and the substrate. Both surfaces have to be seriously clean, and they should be free of soft oxidized gelcoat or any protective waxes. The surfaces on both sides of the joint should be scrubbed with a solvent (taking care to remove it from the joint line, so it doesn't attack the existing sealant or interfere with the new caulk), and a light sanding would be helpful, too. This is pretty anal-compulsive, I know, but a little extra time spent now could add years of enjoyment of the results.
The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.
Lee Panza SR/SK #2134 San Francisco Bay (Brisbane, CA)
Any caulking material applied externally will eventually degrade in UV exposure. LifeSeal is supposed to be pretty good, but you can't expect it to be permanent. When it's completely covered under a UV-blocking surface, like under the flanges of a piece of deck hardware, it can last a long time (slight degradation occurs at the edge exposed to the environment, but it progresses inward very slowly). But as a bead applied to the outer edge of a joint it has no protection from UV exposure, so it will break down and eventually have to be replaced. The only real issue is how long it'll last (and up there at Whiskeytown you might only get a few years, Lucky, if you're still watching this thread).
A more important issue is adhesion between the caulking material and the substrate. Both surfaces have to be seriously clean, and they should be free of soft oxidized gelcoat or any protective waxes. The surfaces on both sides of the joint should be scrubbed with a solvent (taking care to remove it from the joint line, so it doesn't attack the existing sealant or interfere with the new caulk), and a light sanding would be helpful, too. This is pretty anal-compulsive, I know, but a little extra time spent now could add years of enjoyment of the results.
Excellent points — thanks! You are right about the UV impact, especially with our blistering summers. I did everything you mentioned — scraped and cleaned with cleaner and solvent. And a very light, fine grit sanding before recaulking. I pulled the bottom lens off in the V berth and am working on cleaning that surface the same way. I think I’ll leave it off through a few rains, or maybe for good, to check for any leaks.
Thanks, all, for the advice.
“Lucky Duck” - ‘87 C25 Trad. SR/WK #5588 Whiskeytown Lake, CA
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.