Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Has anyone converted their 250 from the edson wheel pedestal steering to a tiller? Looks fairly straight forward. Just remove pedestal and rudder attachments. Then add a tiller and some access plates where the pedestal was mounted.
Just did it. You are right on but you have to expand the pedestal hole for the access plate. If you are buying a new tiller check the dimensions at the rudder head don't trust your emergency tiller Mine did not fit when I had to use it.
Awesome! Mine fits but its too short. I ordered a new tiller from rudder craft. My pedestal cables and brake is shot. Edson quoted me $730 for a set of double cables to replace my single cable setup plus $80 for a new clutch break. The tiller was $200 finished and shipped then another $120 for a tiller extension. A no brainer for me, not a big fan of a wheel in the first place.
Just glad someone else has done this before I attempt it.
Thanks,
Chris Edwards
quote:Originally posted by whk1965
Just did it. You are right on but you have to expand the pedestal hole for the access plate. If you are buying a new tiller check the dimensions at the rudder head don't trust your emergency tiller Mine did not fit when I had to use it.
I removed the compass and controls. Then I removed the 4 bolts holding the pedestal. It wont even wiggle, is it glued down? Maybe use a scraper or a chisel? How did you get the pedestal off?
I had to remove my pedestal to install the new "Pull-Pull" system from Edson... BTW, love my wheel as it's easy on the back and for the grandsons with their very short arms. Anyway, mine was also very "stuck" from the factory. After removing all of the bolts, I hooked my come-along between the top of the pedestal and the base of the 1" grab rail near the cabin top winches. The constant strain of the come-along and a little urging on my part broke it loose. I found a small mountain of sealer under it with a perfect impression of the base. Sooo... (for those re-installing) I left the original sealer and just laid a new, thin coat on top when re-installing.
If the sealant is an adhesive such as (God help you) 3M 5200, Don Casey recommends a release chemical called DeBond. (West caries it.) Apparently you score the edges of the seal, spray DeBond on it, wait a bit, pry and score some more, spray again,........ It might be worth it to avoid damaging the gelcoat on the cockpit sole, since 5200 is famous for pulling it off the fiberglass. (...famous to me because it happened to me, where a builder bedded teak hand-rails with it.)
As I've said many times, 5200 should only be sold to... well, maybe nobody!
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
They used caulk. Once the four bolts holding the pedestal were out I tied a rope to the pedestal then to the winch. A couple of turns on the winch and the pedestal came loose. I then used a paint scrapper to remove the rest of the caulk. Now to install a 4" access plate to cover the control wire hole.
NCBrew, Just my two cents: I just finished converting to tiller also. You might want to mock up a cardboard pedestal and wheel in your boat. See what it's like for boarding, and if you trailer-sail, see what it's like to step the mast and rig the boat with the wheel in place. You'll also want to consider the added parts you'll have hanging down into the aft berth and the battery compartment area; depending on your boat's configuration, it can be pretty tight.
One thing to also consider is weight; most of the parts are pretty light, but if you're going to add a HDPE cockpit table, pod with electronics, etc. it all adds up.
You'll be drilling and cutting some fairly large holes in your boat and rudder, but I don't think there's anything too challenging for your average DIY savvy sailor.
If you have to buy the parts from Edson new, I would be very curious what it would all cost!
I have a standard tiller and that’s always in my way in the cockpit. I’ve been thinking of buying another one to shorten up by about a foot. I could not imagine what kind of an obstacle a wheel would be in a Catalina 25/250 cockpit.
I've commented before on my pro-wheel stance (probably in the minority here)... but while it is a bit tight to get around to change helmsman, it otherwise provides more space for guests. With the helmsman sitting center aft, we easily put two in the catbird seats and three more in the cockpit - and no banging of knees, nor having them move as is the case with the tillter... and we are not a small group of six, I'm 6'4" as are a few of my friends. Also, the ease of steering with the Edson pull-pull system whilst running offshore in Central California's large swell is a blessing.
I have the 1" S/S grab rail attached to the binnacle, and I've duplicated a slightly smaller version above the mainsheet hardware where one enters the cabin... both are well-used.
The PO of my boat had converted from wheel to tiller as the single cable had frozen. I reversed the process and do keep the tiller as a backup device.
As an aside... my grandsons can easily steer the boat and more clearly see forward from the helm.
Hi all, This is my first post on this forum - excited to be here to chat with fellow Catalina owners! :)
I'm interested in this topic, as the Edson push/pull system on my new-to-me 1996 C250 broke: now I either need to convert to tiller (something I had considered even before the steering system broke, mainly due to lack of room around the pedestal) or pay $900 for the Edson pull/pull upgrade kit and install it.
My questions for the folks who have a tiller on a Catalina 250 (esp. if you have converted from wheel to tiller): - Do you have a tiller locking system/clutch? How did you install it? E.g., manual for the Tiller Tamer by Davis ( https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0515/5992/3873/files/2205_IM_TillerTamer.pdf ) suggests 90 degrees around point "C" - I don't see an obvious place to install cleats in the aft of the boat to achieve such angle... There is a ladder in one corner and an outboard in the other. - The tiller obstructs access to the fuel tank compartment (this is something I have experienced already with the emergency tiller I'm temporarily using) - any tips to deal with that? - Once I remove the pedestal, how to cover the hole nicely so it doesn't look terrible and doesn't leak? :) - Any particular tillers (shapes and sizes) you would recommend for a C250?
And a question to @RPLieser, or anyone who has upgraded the wheel from push/pull to pull/pull: how difficult is it to do? I got instructions from Edson, but some steps are unclear to me (due to novel terminology, etc.). I'm sure the steps will become clearer once I start disassembling stuff, etc., but in general I'm wondering if it's a 2-3-hour type of project, or more of a multi-day project?
I would very much appreciate your help/input!
I feel a tiller would be better for this size of the boat, but only if I can get some tiller locking system to work reliably... (otherwise, I'd prefer the wheel) also, with installing the cleats and patching up the hole after removing the pedestal, I cannot tell if converting to tiller, or to pull/pull steering system would be easier.
While there are a few steps, if you're handy you shouldn't find the task too difficult - and the result is like adding power steering to the boat - one can sail all day and the back and arms do not tire. Given your two choices, I'd say a multi-day project. I also replaced the rubber boot on the tiller arm while I was at it as the bolts holding it in need to come loose anyway for the inside bracket install. The kit from Edson is very complete and well-made, their tech support helpful. I fully completed this task on the first pass and didn't have to go back on any items - and no new holes to drill in the deck or hull.
Significant Components of the Install: 1) I would say now, as I own a 2008 wing keel with the pull-pull system factory installed, that the greatest challenge I had was determining the route for the cable conduits. I say that as the factory route on my new boat is simpler than the route I took... should've looked for a photo! 2) Breaking the pedestal loose... see my note back in this thread... easy once I figured it out. Side note... the kit comes with replacement aluminum bolts for the pedestal. 3) Deciding whether or not to slightly enlarge the hole beneath the pedestal to fit the bend of the conduits... this would be less of an issue using the factory conduit path. Remember to seal the deck edges if the epoxy from the factory is incomplete or you enlarge the hole. 4) Adding clearance for the conduits in the plywood panel that covers the lazarette... again, much easier with the factory conduit route.
Other notes: 1) generously grease the new cables with a non-petroleum grease, 2) order the conduits with a mid-point grease fitting for future lubrication, 3) remember to oil the bearing on the wheel shaft while you've got it taken apart (through the little hole), 4) consider any wiring adds to the binnacle while apart... I added GPS and fathometer wiring to the helm.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.