Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've had a nasty leak in the V berth every time it rains. I thought it was the seal around the hatch and replaced it. Everything was good for a while. Last night it rained. I went to check things out and damn....more water in the V berth. I finally tracked it down to two simultaneous problems.
1) The drain in the anchor locker was plugged with debris. I opened up the anchor locker, and it looked more like a bait well. It was full of water. Still, you would think that the locker would just fill up, smell bad, and then overflow over the deck. 2) The anchor damaged the inside of the anchor well and caused a hole that compromised the anchor locker. I need to repair the hole. I also need to get some tennis balls and put them on the ends of the anchor to prevent any future damage. While I'm there, I think I'll mount a cleat to tie the bitter end of the anchor rode.
"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339 Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut
Also, be aware that the anchor locker is not watertight as there are holes at the aft end where the wiring passes through. A full well will spill over into the V-berth.
As for a cleat, you need to be sure you have the structure to back that up.
Tim Keating 1985 C-25 TR/FK #4940 Midsummer Lake Don Pedro, CA
quote:you would think that the locker would just fill up, smell bad, and then overflow over the deck.
I don't think the anchor locker has a water tight seal where it connects to the underside of the deck.
quote: I also need to get some tennis balls and put them on the ends of the anchor to prevent any future damage.
Better than tennis balls that probably will fall off I use short pieces of tight fitting rubber hose. They also protect the hull when you haul up the anchor.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
My 1986 Catalina 25 has a attachment point in the anchor locker to tie off the bitter end of the anchor line. It's on the forward section of the locker under the lip. I thought it was stock, perhaps not.
Erik
Erik Cornelison 6th Generation Professional Sailor, First Gen Submarine Sailor. 1986 Standard Rig SW. #5234
Re: "I use short pieces of tight fitting rubber hose. They also protect the hull when you haul up the anchor."
That is a great idea! And doesn't seem likely to interfere with the anchor burying itself as designed.
Re: "...attachment point in the anchor locker to tie off the bitter end of the anchor line. It's on the forward section of the locker under the lip."
I think I installed a couple extra-long bolts for the stem fitting (or maybe it was the pulpit), tightened 2 nuts on them as a spacer, then a big fender washer, then a final locking nut. I tied a couple foot long 1/4" double braid line around each pair of stacked nuts, and used a bowline knot to tie the loose end to a thimble spliced into the bitter end of each anchor rode. That gives me the option of releasing an anchor quickly if I need to without cutting anything expensive.
Re: "The drain in the anchor locker was plugged with debris." ... Add a bigger drain."
This is almost a mandatory modification to the Catalina 25s with pencil size drains. It's relatively simple to do using 1/2" or 3/4" heavy wall PVC pipe and your choice of permanent adhesive/sealant. (One of the few situations where 3M 5200 would be appropriate.)
Re: "...the anchor locker is not watertight..." ... "...reglass the anchor locker..."
In my 1979 boat, the original anchor locker was just a shallow pan open to the V-berth at the sides. I also wasn't impressed with the crude fiberglass 'sugar scoops' loosely screwed over the backside of the bow lights. After a thorough cleaning (and repairing damaged foredeck ahead of the anchor locker) I added a layer of woven roving to stiffen the anchor locker floor, and sealed the sides to the hull with a couple layers of fiberglass cloth and lots of epoxy. To better protect the bow lights while still allowing access to change bulbs, I cut a stack of plywood disks to fit the odd shape of the topsides around the light, and support 3" Beckson-style screw in access plates. (I ordered them in red and green.)
Re: "Add a new gasket to the anchor locker hatch."
I didn't bother, counting on the enlarged drain to prevent standing water. I even cut a notch in the fwd edge of the locker hatch and lip of the opening for anchor rode clearance.
However, my flow-through approach didn't prevent a small ecosystem from developing in there. Water and a few dead leaves from rain storms, mold, ants, lizards, an occasional plant seed; it was becoming impressively diverse.
Thanks for all the great ideas. I'll try to open up the drain to either 1/2" or even 3/4". I also like the idea of using rubber hose on the ends of the anchor. That's an easy and simple solution. Lady E is a 1986 C25, but I don't have any cleat inside the locker for the bitter end. I'll install one. And of course, I'll get a 1/8" backing plate for the cleat. I'll mount the cleat on the aft of the locker. I don't anticipate using this cleat to set the anchor. I just don't want to lose the whole anchor rode overboard by letting all the line out without securing the end. (No, I never did, but I know of others who did). The 1986 C25 has a notch built into the deck to allow the anchor line out through the locker with the hatch closed. Also, the 1986 C25 has the navigation lights on a pod mounted on the bow pulpit. There are no wires or holes through the locker. Thanks for all the input.
"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339 Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut
The wires for your pod mounted navigation lights do run through the locker. They are located up under the port lip of the locker and run up inside one of the legs for the pulpit. Feel around up under there with your hand or use a mirror. You'll find them.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Caulk around wires going through a hole in fiberglass is a good idea. Not only will it help prevent leakage through the hole, it will stabilize the wires so the fiberglass doesn't chafe through the insulation over the course of 20, 30 or 40 years of bouncing, vibrating, rolling, etc.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Whether you have pod mounted or pulpit mounted nav lights, the wiring for the starboard side cabin lights could pass through the aft end of the locker. They do on my '85.
Tim Keating 1985 C-25 TR/FK #4940 Midsummer Lake Don Pedro, CA
Well, it rained pretty hard today. No water in the boat. NICE. I found the wires on the port side going up the bow pulpit. I'll caulk them this weekend. Thanks for the heads up. All the other upgrades are still in the works.
"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339 Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut
I marked up the anchor rode to let me know how much line I've payed out. I've read about people using color codes similar to resistors, or other complicated systems using multiple color schemes. I've chosen a very simple system, I am after all, a very stupid man. I used permanent sharpies to mark the line. Green marks are 10 feet. Red marks are 20 feet. Green and red is 30 feet. Two reds 40 feet. two reds and a green 50 feet, etc, etc. I marked up to 100 feet, 5 red marks. I have more line to pay out, but I figure measurements up to 100 foot should be plenty.
"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339 Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.