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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Have a old hood roller furler that is riveted together. Have the diagram to put it together but no instructions on installing it. Will we have to drop mast to install it? Does anyone have experience installing one or pictures?
Lynn Buchanan 1988 C25 SR/WK #5777 Sailynn Nevada City, CA
I had Bruce's (and his boat) before he did, and don't remember the details... Not knowing the model, here's Hood's Seafurl 700/800/900 Installation Guide. With a specific model number, you might find this is applicable, or you might want to go to Hood's site or contact them.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Lynn The Hood furler mounts on the headstay, so you must remove the headstay from the mast to install it. It’s a good idea to drop the mast before you remove the headstay (actually you must).
When you assemble the furler, you must install the furler base (rotor,etc), then add the foil segments with interstitial couplings riveted in place together, and once you get to the top, you need to add the head swivel block and the foil cap on top of the foil.
The head swivel is connected to the jib’s head and the jib halyard. It raises the jib when you bend it onto the furler.
The rivets have to be flush so that the rivet heads are not sticking out of the foil. Otherwise the head swivel will snag and hang up part way up. Happened to me.
Once you assemble the head furler and headstay, make sure you reinforce the furler with a 20 ft long 1”x2” (actually 3 eight foot 1”x2”s nailed together). Connect the headstay to the mast top tang, and hook up the halyard. Most masts have a small block about 2 ft from the masthead. This keeps the halyard from accidentally wrapping around the forestay. If you don’t have this block, you should look at Catalina Direct’s application note on this.
Finally, you’ll have to raise the mast, then reattach the base of the headstay with furler rotor to the bow chainplate.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
It is possible to install with the mast up. The six side stays will hold the mast upright. Reduce the tension on the back stay and boom. That's how we did it the first time we had to work on it, one of the extrusions developed a crack.
That being said, I think it will be easier if you drop the mast.
Hood used special rivets that you smack with a hammer to set.
1988 C25 Wing Keel Std Rig Tohatsu 9.9 Tiller Steering and 2003 C250 Wing Keel Std Rig Inboard Diesel Wheel Steering
JB. It is possible to slip the parts onto the bottom end of the forestay if you remove the turnbuckle. You could also use the main halyard to provide a substitute forward stay while you’re working on the furler. But because the foil segments are pretty long you’d have to stand on some kind of a ladder to install the rivets. You’d probably have to rig the jib halyard to pull up the foil segments, but then you’d need a downhaul to bring the halyard back down. You could do it if you wanted to...
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Scanning the Installation Guide briefly, I saw no mention or illustration of the "halyard restraining block" Bruce mentions. Its purpose is to create an angle between the halyard, where it's attached to the swivel, and the forestay so that when the sail is furled or unfurled, the upper part of the swivel won't turn with the lower part and cause the halyard to be wrapped around the stay. This commonly causes damage to the stay. The PO of my boat didn't run his halyard through the block (which was installed on the mast), and the forestay was bent and partially untwisted at the top.
The block is attached to the front of the mast, below the mast-head, in a spot that is dependent on where the swivel will be with the sail fully hoisted on the furler. The halyard goes down from the mast-head, through the block, and out to the furler swivel. The halyard angle from the block to the swivel at full hoist needs to be about halfway between horizontal and the angle of the forestay, so the halyard is pulling both upward and aft toward the mast. The upward component tensions the sail's luff in the furler extrusion, and the aft component of the angle stabilizes the swivel top and prevents the wrap. Deciding the location of the block is not simple--it depends on the sail as installed on the furler--and might suggest the service of a rigger who might need to go up the mast to install it.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.