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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone have a set of instructions (or a place to purchase) a proven mast raising system for a C25 Std please? I have been searching and while I see many available, including the one for a Capri25 I tried last week, I'm hoping for something specific to my 1986 C25 so I can anticipate its mounting without the need to change the direction of the anchors for the forward lowers or fasten it to the stantions or ... maybe that's how it has to be done but seems like someone who did this over and over would have something more integrated. I've perused the WWW and viewed many-a-video of gin pole systems and A-frames but didn't see one that specifically addresses the C25.
You will need to build an a-frame. I used 3/4" EMT tubing. Using a hacksaw, vice, drill and a file. I made a few videos and you can see the construction of it here:
David's system and videos are excellent. I watched his videos numerous times before dropping my mast for the first time.
There is another way to drop the mast, which is forward. Dropping the mast forward was necessary for me because I have a permanently installed bimini over the aft end of the cockpit.
If you want to drop the mast forward, you do not need any additional hardware. You use the boom as a gin pole. The mainsheet tackle provides enough leverage to ease the mast down and raise it.
You must run guy lines from the aft end of the boom to your jib cleats to keep the boom vertical as the mast comes down. If you do not run guy lines, the boom will flop to one side of the boat as the mast comes down. The guy lines should be eased or trimmed to keep them taught as the mast lowers, and the same as it rises.
Also, when you drop the mast forward, you disconnect the aft lower shrouds. This is unlike dropping the mast aft, for which you disconnect the forward lower shrouds.
You also need to loosen the upper shrouds 7-8 turns or so.
The trick parts are you need rigid legs, whether pipe or 2x3s or 2x4s, length of the legs ought to be 8-9 ft (longer is better), but the key part is the knuckles that link from the bottom of the legs to the main chain plates holding the upper shrouds. This should be a 4-6" piece of 1" or 1.5" EMT pipe that serves as a rigid pivot point for the legs.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
You must also loosen the the uppers 7-8 turns to accommodate the mast rising slightly as it pivots over its aft or forward edge or you will bend the lower t-bolt.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
You must also loosen the the uppers 7-8 turns to accommodate the mast rising slightly as it pivots over its aft or forward edge or you will bend the lower t-bolt.
Thanks, Dave. I forgot we actually had to do that to get the mast to even start to lower. I've added that to my post above.
I'll second that DavyJ's method is excellent. I was able to use the receiver on my van to bend the flattened ends of the pipes to get the angles I wanted. No need for a vice! Be careful not to bend them too far.
DavidP 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
Thanks all. I've seen some portion of that video in past but it is more clear now what specific hardware was used. My chief concerns hovered around how to stabilize the rig during raising/lowering and how to estimate the line needed to fully lower. I'll give this a shot and maybe it'll work on my 16 as well.
I purchased an a-frame from these people years ago and have used it many times on many different boats. It is not specifically built for the C-25, but works great on one. I wanted something that I knew would not break or give way at the worst possible time.
These instructions for the A frame were great. I built mine, not too difficult. Be careful and make sure you get a strong enough eye bolt. I got a cast one the others didnt have a lot of strengh only 200 lbs. 1000 lbs Maybe overkill. Now I have to take it out and fit it to the lower stantions. I have to get the right size clevis pins
I have a problem though after reading the directions on lowering. I only have a main halyard. My Jib Halyard is stuck up top of the mast . In the instructions it says to use the jib halyard to hold the mast in place while you move the forestay to the frame to prevent the mast from falling. Can you use the main halyard for the same thing, even though it comes off the opposite side of the mast head. Or can I just throw a line over spreaders and tie off on bow.
Once I get the mast down Ill fix it so I can use the jib halyard as a topping lift and to lower the mast. but will it be ok as a topping lift if its coming off the bow side of the mast head?
quote:Originally posted by Davy J
You will need to build an a-frame. I used 3/4" EMT tubing. Using a hacksaw, vice, drill and a file. I made a few videos and you can see the construction of it here:
If you like you can use the main halyard or a friend can just put a little forward pressure on the mast. Honestly my mast just stood there and you will probably have to push it to get it going down.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
quote:I only have a main halyard. My Jib Halyard is stuck up top of the mast .
If you are lowering on the hard or trailer, and/or have helpers, you probably don't need to employ the jib/main halyard. Just have a helper keep the mast upright until you are ready to go.
In my case, I was essentially doing the whole process, by myself, while the boat was underway. The admiral only steered the boat and helped to feed out the halyard and furling lines as the mast came down.
And as Islander pointed out, I usually had to give a tug on the backstay just to get things rolling.
Davy J
2005 Gemini 105Mc PO 1987 C25 #5509 SR/SK Tampa Bay
I watched a guy and his two buddies using a gin pole to drop the mast on his Precision 23. He led a line to the spreaders area instead of using the forestay. Almost bent the mast when it was nearly horizontal. Amazing what people will rig up.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
this is from my kiss aframe system, i think i got most of the idea from the original how to manual: made it myself from 2 home depot studs $2.19 ea. 1.I drilled holes at the end next to the deck and simply tie that end tightly to the miggle shrouds eyebolts with a short piece of 1/4 nylon.and a pice of old carpet under the wood stay to protect deck. 2.then make a loop about 3 - 4 ft high tied between the mid and aft shroud eye bolts or turnbuckles. on the loop place a SS ring. 3.fasten 2 "baby stays" of line to loops and around mast as high off deck as I can reach. 4. fasten main halyard to the two "baby stays" at mast, haul up tight. then use mast mounted winch to raise lower mast. solo on hard or water
Hi everyone. Been awhile, apologies but thanks for your input. I wound up borrowing a proven 25's A-frame and while it was perfectly-tuned for my boat, I think it weighed in at 45lbs. For those reading, I will second that removing the forward lowers is obvious but less obvious is to loosen the cap shrouds, about 7-8 turns as previously mentioned, perhaps more if you tune your mast to a high C.
We are getting ready tomorrow or the next day to raise our mast and a friends mast for what seems like the hundredth time. We use the electrical conduit a-frame design. It is heavier than the one for the C22, but not that heavy. NEVER would recommend using wood. I have seen three wood systems shatter and throw splinters that were deadly, besides ruining a good mast. There is one point of tremendous downward force when lifting the mast with a the a-frame. Sometimes we use the boat trailer winch and sometimes the mainsheet block and tackle to the a-frame. I like to use the boat trailer winch and my husband likes to use the block and tackle. I will try to take pics and post.
Lynn Buchanan 1988 C25 SR/WK #5777 Sailynn Nevada City, CA
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.