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 Leaky Port Lights, one more time		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5352 Posts
Initially Posted - 05/17/2017 :  20:39:13  Show Profile
Ok, so I was sitting on Passage one evening during a thunderstorm at the end of last season and I finally figured out where the rain gets in: leaky port lights. Not bad in a drizzle or light rain but when the skied open up, whoa! We get more than a trickle.
So now I know there are many places for water to penetrate so I'm trying to understand the action a little better.
The port lights have an aluminum rim on the outside, then there's a rubber grommet in the hole that should fill the hole entirely, then the glass should sit snugly within the rubber grommet and there's an aluminum rim on the inside. So which part separates from which other parts to let the rain in?
Does water hit the top of the outside rim and seep in there? Does the outside rim have a gap so when the water hits the glass, the water drips down under the rim, then through the rubber grommet, then in? Or does the water run down the outside of the glass, then seep under the bottom part of the outside rim?
I was thinking about removing the outside rim (somehow!) and putting some polysulfide in the gaps. Will half measures work at all?
From the past discussions I gotta be kidding myself. Got for four portlight rebidding kits from CD, yeah?
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts
Response Posted - 05/18/2017 :  20:21:15  Show Profile
One kit does the whole boat, but the big "but" is that they don't always ship the sealants they claim. Mine came with 5200. The frame is more complex than you describe. The inside piece is just a ring. The outer piece is a multichannel extrusion with an upper and lower section held together by a small aluminum plate screwed to the upper and lower frames. The plates are hand drilled and need to be marked for location and orientation since hole locations vary. The glass sits in a flexible plastic that is then pressed into a channel with sealant and the whole outer component is reassembled. An appropriate bedding compound like polysulfide or butyl tape is used under the outer assembly. It is compressed and held in place by the screws through the inner ring. Leaks can come from any of the joining surfaces. Pearl didn't have a core in the cabin sides, just pieces of plywood to act as spacers. I used the 5200 to seal the gap between the outer deck/cabin molding and the liner so if a leak returns it will drip into the cabin instead of the bilge and alert me. I am happy with my results but would probable go with bonded, trimless plastic and can the attractive and troublesome frames. Be aware that the conversion isn't a light undertaking because the holes are rough cut, large and unfinished.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
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Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts
Response Posted - 05/19/2017 :  06:14:02  Show Profile
Great description Dave. I need to redo mine sooner than later and didn't even know there was a rebed kit. I was planning on just using butyl. Now I need to tear one apart.
Ken
San Diego
84 C25 SR/FK 4116
The KRAKEN
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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts
Response Posted - 05/19/2017 :  08:35:55  Show Profile  Visit Bladeswell's Homepage
Hi Guys,

When I bought my boat it came with all of the ports removed. The PO had started to re-bed them, had only done one. But doing some reading, I discovered that this original system has always been a problem and as described above can leak from 3 or 4 places. I chose to eliminate the frame system altogether and went with smoked polycarbonate directly mounted to the sides of the cabin. There is a upgrade kit out there but it is really expensive. I bought the material myself for $172.00, cut and shaped it. Installed it and a year and a half later still no leaks. And IMO, it looks much better. I have sense sold the original ports and frames. Good luck with what ever choice you make.

Bladeswell
C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.
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tpothen
Deckhand

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17 Posts
Response Posted - 05/22/2017 :  16:16:31  Show Profile  Visit tpothen's Homepage
My '79 leaked between the frame and hull and between the gasket and glass because the rubber gasket had hardened over time. I got lucky in that the previous owner had re-cored a fair amount of the deck and also the port light openings so I had no rot to deal with. I didn't get any pictures of putting in the gaskets but do have some of the frame taken apart. You can see more on my website. I used the Catalina direct kit but opted for butyl tape from Compass Marine Services to mount them.



"Myasis Dragon" 77' C25/SR/SK/Din.
www.svmyasisdragon.com
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4302 Posts
Response Posted - 05/23/2017 :  19:18:02  Show Profile
I think it would be easier and probably no more expensive to have a cabin cover made. You could have it made so it also covered the teak companionway. This would kill two birds with one stone.

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5352 Posts
Response Posted - 05/23/2017 :  19:51:29  Show Profile
Gary B,
You are totally correct! I had a cabin top cover made by Defender Industries when I bought Passage back in 2008. Made of Sunbrella fabric with brass grommets, I covered the boat every time I closed it up during my first and second seasons. One day I noticed some wet schmutz underneath the cover so I stopped using it. Perhaps I should use it whenever heavy rains are predicted.
When not in use as a cabin cover, it doubles as a boom tent, especially on hot sunny days on the hook. Keeps the cabin cool on those blazing HHH days.
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5352 Posts
Response Posted - 05/23/2017 :  19:58:21  Show Profile
Another thought - can I make some kind of plastic film that covers the portlights like a shower cap, with magnets and foam tape to prevent leaks?
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4018 Posts
Response Posted - 05/24/2017 :  04:04:52  Show Profile
Magnets, Aluminum frames?
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5352 Posts
Response Posted - 05/24/2017 :  17:22:53  Show Profile
Oh well, snaps?
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9075 Posts
Response Posted - 05/24/2017 :  20:22:26  Show Profile
Snaps? What about the water?
Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4018 Posts
Response Posted - 05/25/2017 :  06:54:51  Show Profile
quote:
Snaps? What about the water?

Agreed, Nothing watertight there. Short of taking the window apart and using the CD rebuild kit that from what I've read here is no guarantee to stop the leak, Maybe a cabin top cover that extends over the windows. Brown poly tarp and some bungee cords to the stanchions for the inexpensive way or canvas for the upgrade. Side benefit is the sun is off your cabin top. Rebuild the window in the winter.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


Edited by - islander on 05/25/2017 06:56:42
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.