Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Spring is in the air, I've started in on pre-season maintenance.
However, when I dropped the rig at the end of last season I noticed that the forestay was so tight that that top of the mast was pulled too far forward. The forestay length (eye to the end of the threaded end) is exactly the length listed in the manual at 29' 7-3/4". I have a CDI FF2 furler as well.
I am thinking that the backstay and shrouds are probably not adjusted correctly, in addition to the forestay being out of whack. I searched the archives, read the manual, does anyone know of a rigging guide for the C250WB? I'm no pro, but on other boats I have started with dropping a line (the main halyard) to get the proper mast rake. With the forestay and backstay setting that point, I then worked the shrouds evenly to get a big of bend in the mast. This, of course, all at the dock and then adjusting a bit under sail.
Russ, I just read the entire thread. Awesome stuff, I get it. Can't wait to try it out. The boat was new to me last year ('95) so I just put up the rig and sailed. I had some fun getting to know the boat, finally figuring out after reading on the forum that my rudder wasn't staying tight up against the rudder head (original version 1 rudder). I had trouble with my OB, etc. Had a great season, but was super surprised on dropping the rig that it was so out of whack ( and feeling a bit stupid for not having even checked it out all season.)
I am going to start my rig tune on the trailer. TakeFive (thank you!) said the the cabin sole is level at the kitchen cabinet to the intended waterline (bootstripe). I will start with the 4" rake using that as my staring point. I can then observe how she sits at rest, tune from there.
I don't think he's still active on this forum, but his website is still up. Here's Arlyn's perspective which contains more information that your head can hold.... http://pages.suddenlink.net/arlyn/sailing/tuning.html
...TakeFive (thank you!) said the the cabin sole is level at the kitchen cabinet to the intended waterline (bootstripe)...
Just a quick warning that my boat was a wing keel. The sole of the water ballast is significantly higher, and thus might be different by design. Plus there are manufacturing tolerances to consider. I think it's a safe bet that the sole is close to level for quick 'n dirty approximation, but if you really want to know for sure I'd get an inexpensive laser level to raster across your boot strip to verify level.
Rick S., Swarthmore, PA PO of Take Five, 1998 Catalina 250WK #348 (relocated to Baltimore's Inner Harbor) New owner of 2001 Catalina 34MkII #1535 Breakin' Away (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)
I read through the Arlyn's info on other threads, a question: when raising and lowering the mast, are you good folks out there releasing the tension in the shrouds by easing the turnbuckles? It sounds from the writeup as if this might be required or best practice.
I would loosen them all before raising or lowering. You definitely need to loosen the uppers, otherwise you could do some severe damage from excessive tension when the mast is almost vertical - collapsed spreaders, damaged chainplates, damaged swages, etc. Count the number of turns so you can easily restore the same tension again.
Rick S., Swarthmore, PA PO of Take Five, 1998 Catalina 250WK #348 (relocated to Baltimore's Inner Harbor) New owner of 2001 Catalina 34MkII #1535 Breakin' Away (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)
...also, I doubt you'd ever get the forestay detached without loosening up everything, and removing one side of the split backstay.
Rick S., Swarthmore, PA PO of Take Five, 1998 Catalina 250WK #348 (relocated to Baltimore's Inner Harbor) New owner of 2001 Catalina 34MkII #1535 Breakin' Away (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)
I have a wing keel so I am not sure if the rigging is the same. I think it is. I just loosen and tighten the fore stay to raise an lower the mast. I have painted the threads on my stay so I know when the turn buckle is tight enough. This makes set up and tear down so much faster. All of my other stays are safety wired so they do not move after I tuned the rig two years ago.
1998 250 WK/TR #355 "Trail Break" Lake Tahoe California
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.