Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
It's been a while since I have been on this forum as we've missed a couple of sailing seasons. Which brings me to my question. The deck of our '84 was pretty nasty this spring so I needed to pressure wash it to get all of the grime off. After blasting it clean I noticed a few spots around the cockpit that seemed to have a blue color showing through.
Is it possible that in '84 my boat was originally one of the baby blue ones? I suppose it could have been painted at some point, but if it was, it would have been an impeccable paint job.
What seems more plausible to me is that I might have worn through the gel coat to the next layer. Why would it be blue though?
For the record, I have only used a high pressure washer once before when we first bought the boat about 10 years ago. Other than that it has been cleaned each year at the car wash stall with the scrub brush and soap and hosed down. The finish has been pretty oxidized for many years if it matters.
Thoughts?
Chris Sacandaga Lake, NY 1984 C25 SRSK "Les's Moor"
That's interesting. I have a '79 that also has some blue showing through on the cockpit hatch and bulkheads. Looks the the boat may have been blue originally and then repainted? Hard to tell if it's worn gel coat or paint.
Likely that gel coat has worn thin. We see a few C25s here and there with this issue. Also likely that boat left the factory with thinner than desired gel coat in that area. I used ScrubFree on the cockpit of a previous boat and current owner recently commented on some blue areas.
I am certainly no expert, but while doing some heavy sanding on my boat I have sanded deep enough to see blue. I am betting that I went past the gel coat. I am aware that this was not desirable but it was necessary. Just my opinion of course.
I suspect that the first spay of gelcoat is blue, gets masked and sprayed white. A fast buff to smooth the edges and you have adequate thickness of gelcoat and all your colors in place.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Gel coat is preferable, of course, but paint is a reasonable alternative, especially if you don't have the skill to do gel coat yourself. Also, it depends on where you paint. Painting non-skid is fairly easy, looks good and is reasonably durable. Kiwigrip nonskid paint looks good and holds up well, is easy to apply and is easy to re-do as needed.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I started to see the blue on the sides of my 84, and decided the only action was poly glo. I prefer a buff and wax, but buffing was no longer an option. Poly glo has worked out very well on the sides although I know a lot of you don't like it on the top side. It is at least an alternative to paint or now.
I read somewhere that you should only paint as a last resort. Buff and Polish for as long as it still works and delivers the desired results. Once you paint you will always have to repaint when the time comes. I don't remember if it said about every two to four years. Might be dependent on your location.
I have a friend that redid a Boston whaler and had the whole thing painted with Imron paint inside and out. It's been about 15 years since he did it and he hasn't yet had to repaint. It certainly shows it's age in the form of chips and dings, but it still shines nice. The boat is in lake George ny and only the console gets covered during the summer. In the winter it's stored under a car port
Chris Sacandaga Lake, NY 1984 C25 SRSK "Les's Moor"
I read somewhere that you should only paint as a last resort. Buff and Polish for as long as it still works and delivers the desired results.
That's true.
quote: Once you paint you will always have to repaint when the time comes. I don't remember if it said about every two to four years. Might be dependent on your location.
Bladeswell
That's also true, but the crux of the matter is how long will a paint job last. Lots of boats are painted and look good after many years. It depends on how well you take care of it. My Cal was painted by the PO and still looks good. The paint on the hull looks good. The paint on the non-skid is getting thin and will probably take a 1/2 day to mask it and a day to apply 1-2 coats, and it's an easy DIY job. The non-skid wears much faster than the hull, because you walk on it, but it's easier to re-do. Avoid painting if you can, but if not, paint it.
Also, you don't have to paint the whole boat. If the gel coat on the hull is ok, then just paint the decks as needed
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
Steve, that's such a refreshing reply. Typically these threads degenerate into doom and gloom warnings about how there is a special place in hell reserved for people who paint their boat.
Chris Sacandaga Lake, NY 1984 C25 SRSK "Les's Moor"
That's good news because my boat falls under the must paint category. The deck and cockpit for sure. I will also be painting the interior. BTW, my boat had a decal of the boats name and at some point in the past, was painted over. Will rubbing compound remove the paint enough to be able to get the decal off ? I find it annoying that I can still see and feel the old name. And it was done rather large. Thanks.
Decals frequently leave a slightly raised ghost when removed that sunlight takes care of. That might be all you have. Use stripper to remove the paint and a heat gun and plastic scraper for the decal if present. Light sanding should take care of it.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Did the poly glow help with the blue coloring showing through?
Poli Glow is a clear polymer finish--some liken it to Mop-n-Glow, and there might be some distant relationship... Whatever you put it on, it will emphasize and virtually imortalize any imperfections, marks, etc. So you need to make the surfaces you're applying it to look just the way you want (except for the shine). I predict Poly Glow will make the blue brighter and bolder--not covered up in any way.
The primary issue I see with paint is that when it (eventually) starts to crack and peel, it pretty much has to be completely removed so you can start over. Otherwise, the next paint job will have shallow craters and other surface imperfections, which the shiny new paint will emphasize, making it look like a bad paint job. I've seen it too often. I'm not trying to preach "gloom and doom"--just reporting what I've witnessed in the past half century or more.
The most durable boat paints are the 2-part polymer versions like Interlux Perfection and Pettit EZPoxy--the do-it-yourself versions of professional finishes like Imron and Awlgrip. Note that when a professional re-does Awlgrip or Imron, he removes all traces of the previous finish--a big project I've witnessed.
One-part polyurethanes like Interlux Brightside are a little simpler to apply, but you get what you work for in terms of durability and adhesion. Interlux and Pettit also have non-skid versions--I don't know about them except both companies are big names in the business.
As Steve says, non-skid is the most prone to wear due to its shape as well as the traffic. It's also a discrete area you can paint without having to do everything around it. A small amount of paint on the existing pattern might be work... If not, a top-coat with the grit additive will make it safe and look good. Beyond that, I'd lean against painting a fiberglass boat, and try everything I could think of to restore the gelcoat. But I haven't faced that choice. I can say I probably would not buy a previously painted fiberglass boat. That's just me...
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I have a brown color coming through on the deck, heavy traffic area, of my 1980, no issues (yet) with the topsides. Living and sailing in one of the most costly boating areas anywhere -- the NY metro area -- when I first bought Limerick I needed to have a hull/deck repair done. The guy I used had done work for me before with an earlier boat, is a fiberglass boat repair specialist with a sizable facility that usually has "interesting" projects going on with big-budget vessels. At that time I asked which was cheaper: applying Awlgrip or re-gel coating the topsides. To my surprise his answer was gel coat is cheaper and better for topsides and some coach/deck work but for non skid areas it will result in a very slick deck so he recommended painting the non-skid, as has been mentioned here, and gel coating the smooth surfaces -- and only if they need them. The area of work on Limerick was at the bow and he needed to re-gel coat an area and wow, does it look great even close to a decade later. However applying gel coat is NOT for an amateur: much knowledge, experience and "art" is involved. That said, if and when it really is a point that something must be done -- and you plan on keeping your boat long-term -- then it may be that re-gel coating is the way to go.
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
Greetings - I'd like to share this about gel coat, when I removed my outboard bracket last year, the 1st layer of fiber glass came off with it. After some debate I decided to go for it and do it myself. After layering in the fiberglass matt and resin (and getting it smooth) it was time for gel coat. Frankly it was easy - I did as a you-tube video suggested and built up about 3 layers changing direction of brush strokes on each layer, then sanded with 320/400/600 then buffed. The repair came you great, you can see a slight change in color from the original, the new gel coat is a tad whiter but the edges blended in smoothly after buffing. Gel coat is not difficult IMHO but it does take a little practice, in my particular application I found I had to use at least twice the hardner as recommended. The gel coat is not cheap at WM but the quality was great. HTH Jan
Greetings - I'd like to share this about gel coat, when I removed my outboard bracket last year, the 1st layer of fiber glass came off with it...
5200.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.