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Main hatch slides repair?

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slim
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USA
113 Posts

Response Posted - 02/20/2016 : 15:56:42

O.K. , O.K. I got so frustrated with the teflon conversation that i was almost ready to say forget it. The first fit was very nice as you can see from the photos and the slid action is smooth and easy the new tabs are strong and i am considering just letting it go at that.

1978 - C25 - standard rig - Fixed keel #1040

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 02/20/2016 : 20:17:00

quote:
Originally posted by redeye

I would tape it up and paint on a layer of resin on the outside and then lay a strip of fiberglass matting down and roller it in and paint on another layer of resin. Then flip it over and to the same thing on the inside.

Mine is getting thin and I've been watching it for some time.

Pre-planning.

Ditto

1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

Edited by - OJ on 02/20/2016 20:17:40

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2016 : 05:58:53

<< you could build up the worn areas of the hatch where it rides on the molded fiberglass >>

What Islander said..

My recommendation for both sides of the flanges is most probably wrong.. might be too thick to ride in the track, and it's not supposto have the weight on them so the bottom build up there would just make it worse.

Build up the area where it should be sliding.

Anyhoo.... it's just all talk for us.. you look like you did a good job of it.

Way to go!

Ray in Atlanta, Ga.
"Lee Key" '84 Catalina 25
Standard Rig / Fin Keel

Edited by - redeye on 02/21/2016 06:07:06

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4013 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2016 : 07:58:06

quote:
the new tabs are strong and i am considering just letting it go at that.

It looks like you did a great job in rebuilding the flanges but without building up the area that is suppose to take the load I think they will just end up breaking again after the first 200lb person steps on the hatch. Alotta work down the hatch...Sorry, Couldn't resist

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

slim
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113 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2016 : 10:20:28

Yep i think you are right and today is a new day and i have an idea of how i am going to do this, nothing anyone has suggested yet. So has anyone else got an idea that they would like to share?? Speak now as i am no shipwright and would love another's input.

1978 - C25 - standard rig - Fixed keel #1040

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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4013 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2016 : 12:59:05

To be honest its been a while since I looked at the hatch but Maybe you can just make a form from cardboard or plastic tubing and tape them to the 4 areas that make contact then fill them with thickened epoxy. Once that hardens you can shave them down to the right height with a drill sander. Shave some off and see how it fits. Shave some more if needed until the flanges are positioned in the middle of the teak channels. Thinking some more the pads you are creating don't have to be fully forward and aft. You could set them in a few inches where the hatch is flat just as long as they will ride on the formed fiberglass rail. Just an idea.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 02/21/2016 13:04:52

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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3758 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2016 : 23:20:54

As an aside, I'm not contradicting because I really don't know. I do know that my previous boats hatch did slide on the flanges. I have always thought that the raised portions, rails, were to prevent water from flowing under the hatch and into the cabin. Riding on the rails doesn't seem like a bad idea, but it seems like there should be evidence of wear on the rails or hatch if failure at that point led to the hatch riding on the flanges.

edit:

Sorry, really nice job. I did mean to say that first - my 70 + y/o brain gets easily sidetracked.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

Edited by - Dave5041 on 02/21/2016 23:29:31

slim
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113 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2016 : 18:57:09

Finally got around to finishing the main hatch work and sanding, oiling and refitting the teak at same. All turned out good, at least i think so. I also fiberglassed the forward anchor hatch as it was getting stress cracks from being stood on i would think.

Main hatch and teak

Forward anchore hatch

1978 - C25 - standard rig - Fixed keel #1040

Edited by - slim on 02/29/2016 12:50:32

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