Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Yup--it's a Fulton, which at the time had the best vertical travel for a heavy 4-stroke bracket. It made lifting pretty easy at the time--I suspect the springs have weakened since 2002 or whenever it was. When it turned out to not have adequate clearance for the motor in the up position, they sold me the two cast aluminum U-beams that space the bracket a few inches out from the transom.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
If you bought a Fulton mount, BTW they are very sturdy with thick, strong arms, and the mount has straight arms where the handle is, then make sure you buy longer mounting bolts and plan on using a backing plate of 1" or more on the outside of the transom, as well as a backing plate of 1/4" on the inside of the transom. I mounted a Fulton with straight arms and a 1/2" composite board on the outside and the arms at the top at the handle hit the rub rail preventing me from using the top lock setting. Notice that the motor mounts that CD sells have angled lift arms. That angle is there for a very good reason!
DavidP 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
Yes, the Fulton has been quite reliable so far. As Dave noted above, it is mounted on a 2" offset from the transom so ithe lever does not have any interference. That said, the additional 2" lever arm could cause problems with the mounts. I check the bolts, nuts and mechanism for possible wear and so far, so good. I've added a short piece of stout line to help me raise the engine as needed and don't plan any further mods at this time. I'm glad I can count on the mount whenever I go out.
Bruce: Have you tried dry-lubing it for easier travel?
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
As I wrote a few years ago, do not buy the Fulton MB1820 mount for a C25! The mount is plenty strong, made with heavy duty aluminum bars, but the lift is only 9" and it has the straight lift arm problem. The MB 1810 model, which I had, was made out of the same materials, but has a longer lift. It appears to be out of production now. As I recall, Dave's Fulton was an altogether different model.
Found this, Garelick 71090 and 71091 bracket mounting instructions. Useful info on measuring placement and height travel differences. If you have only a long shaft motor, you will need the longer travel model: http://www.garelick.com/files/12.295.pdf
DavidP 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
I have a Garelick "two spring" four stroke bracket for my Tohatsu 9.8 XXL, installed in 2008 -- it works fine and is easy to raise and lower. That said, from day one -- from a light rain -- rust appeared on all the stainless. And, the small teflon looking gasket appears to be hard, if not impossible to replace when it finally dies. At his point for me, it all works so I am satisfied!
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
I just purchased the 4 spring from Catalina Direct for a new Honda 9.9. I mounted it in the same holes and did not notice it has more length. I now use it in the notch above the bottom notch. If the waves get serious I can always drop it to the bottom notch. This way I do not have to step on it to lower it. When you get it just keep it in the lower notch to loosen the springs a little.
Hi all Installed the new 4 spring mount today. I remember (somewhere) someone saying to put the mount all the way down to sort of 'condition' the springs. What a b*^ch! Had to put my weight on it. I brought it down to the top slot. I usually only need to go the 1st one. I'm going to leave it down for a couple of weeks to see if it loosens up. If not, i'll have to unhook one of the springs.
Has anyone ever tried it? It would have to be one of the two top ones. The ones on the bottom have the hook, but the bars are right there and the spring won't be looser than if it's attached. That thing is really going to spring when let go. Have to protect the hull.
I think if I were to do it again, with the info I now have, I'd go with the three spring. With the 4 spring, that Yammy 9.9 is going to shoot out of the water. LOL Jay
Jay South County RI Cat 25 SR/FK/Trad #5645 Wind Dancer
Just a quick update for those interested. The 4 spring was the way to go! Don't have to push hard to get the engine down. Coming up is easy!! The only thing (very small) is the mount sticks in the down position; the 'locator pin' is hard against the slot, so you have to give it a tug to raise it. All-in-all a great investment
Jay South County RI Cat 25 SR/FK/Trad #5645 Wind Dancer
Glad to hear it. A dab of marine grease on the pin and in the slots helps. Lightly filing the sharp edges of the slots also helps in the arm releasing.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I have the 4 spring Garhauer which I installed back in late 2005. It has worked fine. I recall responding to one these outboard bracket postings (not this one) in which I mentioned that when I initially installed my 4 spring bracket, I could not get it into the lower lock position and that is with a heavy Honda 4-stroke on it. I had mentioned what I did to make it easier and it is similar to what was posted above in this posting thread. I actually stood on top of the of the outboard cowling to get it into the lower lock position on the bracket. I then left it that way for a few days or more. After doing that a couple of times, I found that with effort, I could then get it into the lower lock position without standing on the outboard - The springs had relaxed a bit. The only issue I then had which was also reported above was that to unlock iti, move it out of the lower lock position, I would have to step on the bracket handle with one foot to unlock it. This has turned out to be a minor thing to do to unlock it but I still do that after all these years, though, it sometimes can be unlocked by hand now but I usually still do it with one foot on the handle to give it a nudge. Still - The bracket is great. I am satisfied. Good thought - Perhaps greasing the pin will make it easier. Just never thought to do that.
I have a two block system used during deer hunting t o raise the deer off. The ground . Not expensive works great. Ties on to the rear stanchion and the motor mount handle.
Ken Chenango~ 1990~TR~WK~C25~#6022 Candlewood Lake, Ct
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.