Association Forum - I thought I'd throw my S2 repairs up here....

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Admiralty Forum

I thought I'd throw my S2 repairs up here....

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Member Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/02/2015 : 08:38:39

I've probably put more work into this S2 than I did the Capri 25 already this year, and I'm not done yet. Sadly there will be very little "wiz-bang" pretty stuff, it's a lot of "functional" and some "toys," with less "pretty."

Lets start with a pressure wash before I stored her shall we?

Love this shot.

You can see the grunge on this picture, the lower half was pressure washed, the upper, was as I pulled the boat out of the water (like I said I sailed it for 2-3 weeks "dirty").

Maybe this should help... Before and After of the transom:

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 03/02/2015 08:39:36

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 08:41:25

Sorry for the picture heavy thread, but this was supposed to be about all the repairs done to the boat, so pictures worth a thousand pardons or something...
Where the drill sits, is a soft core... Tearing out the traveler.

Lovely rotted/wet core:

here it is after I cleaned out the mess.

here goes new end grain balsa in, on resin... buttered up the balsa on all 6 sides, they flex so you must butter between the pieces, to prevent rot/water migration...

This is what it looked like after the new core, but before the first layer of matt...

Here is some mess after glassing

This is after sanding, with 2 layers of CSM...

This is the last 2 layers of Chopped Strand Mat going on, cut to fit first, then layers of resin, and press down:

Now I know this picture stinks... Forgive this as my paintbrush I used to apply the resin had some brown stain in it, and apparently resin sucks out the stain.... so this layer looks like heck, but I might as well show my mistakes as well as my triumphs... Gelcoat will cover this, so I am less concerned.

That is where this stands for now, my gelcoat is slated to arrive today, but of course I cannot apply it until it gets significantly warmer (needs to be 60degrees F or higher to coat)... so I'll add pictures either to this post or later in this thread when I do it.

Ok, 03/11/2015 temps outside were 55 degrees, so I fired up the heater in the pole barn and brought it up to 75. READY to gelcoat...
After sanding the last layer of fiberglass.

OH yeah, great match...

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 03/11/2015 18:40:54

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 08:58:10

This picture you'll see my daggerboard (600lbs) removal from the boat. All I did was remove the keel lifting plate, and move it to the rafters of the pole barn. I added (2) 8ft 4x4s to distribute the weight along 2 trusses. I called the pole barn manufacturer, and they said 300lbs per wasnt' a huge deal, that they rated the ceiling to support crane lifts to 1200lbs, across 3 trusses.. but I had to ask. I needed to bottom paint the daggerboard, used the crane, genoa track, and main winches to raise the board, and it was quite easy actually.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 09:07:07

I also put new hatch slides in, earlier pictures you might have seen, but the slides were completely busted up, and you could break pieces off with your fingers (I figure UV degradation). Anyway a friend of mine has a machine shop, and also owns an S2 7.9. He milled his own set of hatch track slides and basically sold me a set at cost (nice guy)... So these are those going in.

I made a mistake and drilled screw holes for the tracks over the rain channel behind the hatch opening, these will need to be addressed in the future or could potentially leak, but it is fine for now, I might just shim up some Starboard "spacers" under it to "fix" the problem.

Also the original crib board keepers were just 90 degree channel, and were also all busted up. I decided to treat the hatchway like a Catalina, and put board keepers on the outside for lack of finding a 90 degree, L channel or even better J channel of starboard. So this is what I did instead (I matched the black plastic starboard of the tracks)... Oh it should be noted I sanded and varnished (5 coats) the real teak plywood crib boards. Vertical flat pieces of starboard in black for the "track" against the hull port and starboard

And keeper boards on the outside (don't see anything else more to come)

Here is the whole kit closed up... NOTE, the friend told me to invert the track slides and put the skinny side down, which still has enough clearance to slide the hatch, he said it fit "better" than original that way, and would provide a tighter appearance against leaks. So I did, but that put the whole hatch about 1/4" lower, meaning my striker for my lock was lower, and the crib boards were too tall, so I had to "cut them down." Now I may still replace those cribs with starboard (white), I havent' decided, but the cost would be close to $200 if I do. Also of note, the way I built the keepers makes there about 1/4" more space in the tracks. So I need to add 1/4" slabs of starboard to each keeper to keep it from wobbling in the slot, or I need to go to a wider set of keepers... I may do both actually so I can have 2 sets of hatchboards.

Anyway, this is the result. Oh and before you think someone could just remove the screws, and get the hatch boards out... I used 3M 5200 to hold those on... someone would need to be there a WEEE bit longer than that. Can they get in? SURE, but not before someone hears them, or notices.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 03/02/2015 09:26:49

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 09:19:49

I bought some new electronics...

Removed the non-functional old speed/Depth/Temp, and busted compass. I also removed (inside) the non-functioning VHF (Standard Horizon circa 1990). Note square and round holes, ugh, for my round electronics.

here is the start of an idea:

Do you see the idea becoming more real... I retemplated with plywood, but didn't like how it looked, like an afterthought...

Ah yes this was what I had in mind!

Testing the electronics, first masthead direction, then knotmeter, and YES that was real temp of the hull at 44 degrees.
http://youtu.be/w1CXlWx2XH8

New standard Horizon GPS Explorer (built in DSC and GPS) went in too, that location is directly below the starboard cabintop winch, it should get good enough GPS signal there (crossing fingers) otherwise I might wind up mounting it through the bulkhead and putting a cover on it when not in use (not ideal)...

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 09:27:53

Ok what next? Ah yes... the tunes... actually if you notice I kind of did all of this work at once... I'm just parsing it out for you by project here...

What is this? A beckson port? AH yes, I was looking to get access to the transom when it occurred to me, I would like some speakers ON deck but I also want access to the both the motor mount (which needs replaced eventually) and to add a new swim ladder on the starboard side. Someone in another thread said, put speakers in the becksons, that way if you ever want them to go away, you just put new plates in. Duh... great idea!

Ok so here I am templating...

Yeah yeah yeah, put tape on the bottom of the saber saw... yep, I'd care if I wasn't already going to have to clean up and polish the fiberglass anyway...

Beckson plates in. By the way, small screws don't stand a chance in fiberglass... always better to bolt, I busted probably 4 screws before I realized they weren't going to get through the glass even with pre-drilling worth a darn. I upgraded to heavier bolts, and also bedded with 4200 the beckson rings.

This should give you an idea of the mounting of the speakers... I took a plate for a 6" beckson, and templated at 4" kicker speaker (marine) to it. The cutout was "rough" but the speakers lip covered most of my sins...

Note I cleaned up my saber saw marks...

Ah yes, the speakers are all nice an all but what of the radio... Well the S2 has a starboard mid-ship head (right of the daggerboard trunk below). This provides a nice flat surface on starboard to mount a stereo with a remote.

Boom - hole cut:

Its also right directly behind the electrical panel, there is a "shelf" in the head where the panel sits, and the battery is directly below. My boat also has a selector for 2 batteries, which I might upgrade to in the near future (more on that later)... but for now I love how clean they ran the electrical, so I tried to keep it all clean as well.

Back up (tough picture to get by the way, its placing the camera against the forward bulkhead)... But if you look I could turn the battery sideways, and get 2 side by side... I took the battery box out for this, but will replace and strap back down at a later time.

Floating stereo, again I have an idea to keep the stereo from looking so floaty, later, also to protect it against arms and feet for the quarter berth that is there. I'm thinking armrest/shelf... which is in the works, I'll add pictures when its done. Also in the near future I'll be adding a 2nd electrical panel, becuase my boat doesn't have a separate steaming light switch, NOR does it have battery meters, or a switch for an electric bilge pump all things I'd like to add. But for now... heres the floating radio

I like this radio, as it has Bluetooth (audio and handsfree), USB for a stick or an ipod, remote control, and 40 watts of power... in conjunction with those kicker 4" speakers with what amounts to an "unlimited" bass cabinet, it's quite loud, and bassy! I was surprised. As an added bonus, the hard bulkhead behind the head, turns the head into an "echo chamber" of sorts sounding like the music is coming from above... AH yes the laws of unintended consequences.

Oh armrest in the making on the left, new head-side electrical box on the right...

More to come on that.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 03/02/2015 09:53:09

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 10:02:06

Oh some might have noticed, I didn't have a swim ladder and I wanted one... so I found a great deal on a 2 piece 5 step ladder on Ebay, for $60 off an Oday 25 (perfect size)... so I bought it, and then took it apart for mounting...

I made a plywood backing plate for it (remember the beckson ports?) well the lazarettes go to the stern of the boat, so this backer plate will fit in the lazarette and there is enough room to slide it up to the transom, however, I'd need to bolt the ladder on from inside, so hence the need for the beckson port which conveniently also makes a nice mount for a speaker. Anyway, plywood would rot in an instant left to itself... so, one must first protect it a bit... will this last forever? NO, but it'll sure last longer than a few years (enough for me). here I am pre-drilling for the bolts, and aligning the screws.

Here I am after the board was resined up heavily. Keen observers would see an air-hockey table (of which my daughter is HIGHLY unhappy I am using it as a workbench), and BBs.. yep it's an eclectic work area. You know along with pieces of my traveler laying there drying for clear coating.

Holes drilled in transom

5200 sealing the deal, bolts all tightened... Ah yes a swim ladder again...

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 03/02/2015 12:39:43

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 11:11:17

New Rudder bushings.

Painted the rudder with bottom paint, and fixed some things with the rudder, like installing a kick-up line, and snap shackle to hold the rudder up when need be. Also I repaired and lacquered the wood blocks holding the cheek plates apart. Relacquered the tiller too.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 03/02/2015 11:14:11

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 11:20:31

Tiller Pilot install
Note for fit, using crib board...

I debated putting the TP on the cockpit seat, but didn't want the hole in the seat, or the pedestal, plus it'd have been close with a drop at the tiller and a pedestal at the seat.. I saw where someone had placed their TP on the combing like this and thought that it might work well.

Drill the pin hole, and then resin it in... drop the brass cap in...

This is a simrad TP22, because I wanted to integrate with my simnet for my other electronics for "Steer to wind." This does simnet, and also NMEA 0183.

Pardon the music (video test of TP), surprised youtube hasn't axed the video yet... purely coincidental by the way.
http://youtu.be/hHQ62Z3wu_Y

The plug... I've since added a 12V aux plug right next to this one.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 12:58:41

Ok, so I removed the mast from the boat (stored the shrouds)... I am in hopes of rebuilding the backstay with dyneema, and a cascade arrangement (I have all the blocks), and a masthead flicker (the roach on the main slaps the backstay when it's on, the flicker should help to push the backstay out from the mast).

Anyway, I took the spreaders off, and this is what I found.

Apparently it's common for these boats with mast on cabintop, for water to roll down the spreaders, with nowhere to go (they aren't open ended spreaders).. winter rolls around and freezes popping the aluminum. So I pulled these off, and brought them into work where one of our maintenance guys says he can weld it for me. I hope so. It was a devil to see the cracks until I sanded.

The holes were overdrilled too, but I think they did that to adjust sweep.

next thing on the list was getting the paint off the mast. The mast on the S2 was painted from the factory (they all were)... The ugly paintjob before Those stripes were painted on!

Painted, that's new to me, because every boat I've had had a clear anodized mast. But regardless the paint had worn severely and in most cases was flat white instead of gloss... so it had to be sanded and painted. Well shockers the primer of record, had a type of chromate? in it perhaps Chromium? dunno, but it's yellow, and no longer readily availalbe product. Instead, the next alternative available was primocon, from interlux, which apparently requires "bare metal." FINE... So I started to sand with my palm sander I used for my bottom job on the Capri, a battle tested Skill brand sander, 1/4 sheet type with 60 grit. I went through a TRUCKLOAD of sandpaper trying to get this battered paint off.

Finally I had it, and went to the store, bought a DeWalt random orbital sander, that uses a hook and loop round disk.. HOLY wow where was this when I did the bottom job! Hooks up to my vacuum and is just SO MUCH cleaner. Also I bought another respirator, as my old one the elastic was shot, as were the filters.

So (4) 5 hour sanding sessions to do have the mast, then 3 hours to do the other half with the new sander.... then the boom took about 1 hour. So much faster.

Bare naked Mast (note I made notes of the locations of the black bands, thats important)

I know, not much to look at, but here is the mast and boom primed, and YES the primer is silver (go figure). That primer is thick as heck too.. I hope it holds half as well as the original.

Paint going on

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 03/11/2015 18:46:18

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 13:19:44

Some other fun things I've done to the boat, were upgrades to ALL the lighting...

I replaced all the original running lights (incandescent) with Dr. LED perko replacement 31mm festoon LEDs.

I also replaced all the interior lights with LEDs. Turns out they are the same as our RV is... so easy to find and can buy them in 6 packs on Amazon for about $40ish...

The last thing I found was on Catalinadirect, it's an anchor light replacement bulb for my mast. Apparently S2 and Catalina sourced the same mastheads between the Catalina 25 and the S2. The stupid little dome light (the cheapest anchor light on catalinadirect) is the one I have, and CD has an LED replacement for it. HUGE bonus. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/3187/bulb-led-upgrade-for-early-navigation-interior-lights-.cfm

Oh I should probably mention some wiring now, because NONE of this works without it.

Things got pretty messy when I started wiring things up... the Tiller pilot is my biggest pain, with it having, POWER (duh), It has (2) 10 gauge power leads (bare), and a SIMNET connector (6 feet), and a NMEA 0183 connector (2 bare leads). I wanted to give myself ALL the options I could, so I ran the speaker wire right past where the Tiller pilot power was, and I also put a 12V aux outlet next to it (for cellphone charging or perhaps future solar panel connection)... anyway, lots of wire...

Well I had to clean it all up. The yellow wire is a stand out intentionally, because it's an inline fuse for the tiller pilot power. It takes a blade style fuse, that I could see in a panic would be a PITA to go below if I had to do it, so I put it up on deck. The rest is Power, CAT5e (NMEA0183), Speaker wire, SIMNET... I'll likely be running the charging cables from the outboard through here too, so I might also be mounting a charge controller if I opt for charging via a solar panel in the cockpit, using the 12V aux port.

Mr. Fuzzycam strikes again, but you'll see a couple things in this picture... all the SIMNET cables are run. Power for VHF, NMEA 0183 for VHF, Coax for antenna... all tied down neat as I can. Finally you'll see a little remote control hook and loop onto the starboard for easy access, along with a microphone holder for the VHF.

My next big projects are:
Gelcoating the repair spot on the cockpit seat (I need warmer weather for that)...
Also tonight I am buying some 320git sandpaper for my random orbital sander, I wan to get the crud off the hull, then compound polish and wax, my finish sander I already have 600 grit wet-sand paper for it.

My compound, polish, and wax had to come inside to prevent freezing, so I can be ready when the weather hits.

The port side of the boat has a color mismatched gelcoat repair, large section probably 2 feet by 3 feet. I hope to have enough ermine white from minicraft after the seat repair, to do that section... I also have a dozen or so other places (dings) on the hull that need addressed. Wish me luck.

Minicraft of FL has your gelcoat... they have a massive database of boat manufacturers, and their original color formulas... Yep I know fading happens, but it should be a "close enough" for me.
http://www.minicraft.com/

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 03/02/2015 13:23:43

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 13:28:30

If you'd have told me that Old VC17m blue looked black after sitting for years I'd have thought you were nuts... well guess, what? It does.
Here you see me working on the bottom... left is original old VC17m... right is new going on, had to take a fast picture, as it was drying as fast as I could apply it.

You have no idea how happy I am that this bottom is now painted, even the 1 coat makes me stupid happy, cause I hate painting the boat bottom and it seems like all my boats require it done...

This is how it looks now... note, axle is on jackstands because that was the only way I could fit my fat keester under the boat between the axles. Not my favorite way to do it, but it worked. I have the wheels chocked, oh and I didn't fit with the creeper.

Having a fin keel (Capri 25) was certainly easier for the painting part.. this is so low to the ground my back, neck and shoulders are killing me today.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 13:32:18

You folks should ALL note the condition of the blue gelcoat in the above picture, and YES I verified it's gelcoat.

I can also verify the boats original name now too. The boat was originally "Synapse" and that was painted/stickered on both sides in letters about 18" high. The outline of those letters showed on the starboard side still. Of course most recently the boat was named "Ni Modo."

Once I've completed the gelcoat repairs, compound, polish, and wax, she'll get her new name, new registration, and be ready for her Christening in the slip come first week of May.
Lots of things yet to do though, but I now see the light at the end of the tunnel.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

kc5dlo
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
71 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 15:03:08

Enjoyed catching up! Thanks!

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 18:18:35

Yeah I'm gone, but you aren't rid of me :)

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

csmcg
1st Mate

Members Avatar

96 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2015 : 23:13:42

Love the photos. Lots of great ideas. Thanks!

Tomas Kruska
Admiral

Members Avatar

Czech Republic
522 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2015 : 03:14:25

Great pictures. You are lucky you have such a nice garage.

I have a question, why didn't you repaired the balsa core on the cockpit seat from bellow leaving the original gelcoat?
It does not look like it needs painting.

Good luck restoring your baby :-)

Dalpol Phobos 21, 2013, Sole Mio, hull #27, current adventures - We sail Phobos 21

PO of Catalina C25, 1978, High Anxiety, hull #701, SR, FK, L-dinette, inboard diesel Volvo Penta MD2010C w/saildrive - more info

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2015 : 04:55:22

Thomas, no its a great question...

The original top gelcoat had an impact mark on it. There was a series of radiated impact spider cracks around it, but with slightly a flex from above, the problem would likely come back. lemme see if I can dig a close-up.
Also there is a bulkhead directly below and forward of the traveler, about 2 inches or 3 inches ahead of the dip in the seat.

I also have an extreme aversion to cramming myself into a lazarette (heheheh!)..

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Tomas Kruska
Admiral

Members Avatar

Czech Republic
522 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2015 : 05:39:52

quote:
Originally posted by shnool
I also have an extreme aversion to cramming myself into a lazarette (heheheh!)..

Totally understand, all that condensed fumes from the epoxy

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2015 : 18:49:14

Armrest is installed. It protects the face of the radio from people leaning on it. Also I added pictures to the appropriate posts above... gelcoat going on.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 03/11/2015 18:51:37

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2015 : 17:46:33

Polishing up the starboard side... Still have waxing to do on starboard... but it's cleaning up nicely.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2015 : 18:49:11

Boat before wet sand, compound, polish, wax.

After

New Name

Registration numbers

Organized the tool kit, added a set of heavy duty wire cutters for cutting the rig away (God forbid).

Finally took apart the lower unit on the outboard, good thing... the impeller was trashed.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2015 : 17:06:29

Minor triumph... I did my own eye splice.
This should save me about $100 in paying others to do these for me... Also a skill I can use for other projects :)

This will be the main halyard, today I ordered 2 more lengths of VPC 5/16, to use for genoa, and spinnaker halyards in blue and green. That'll be ALL the halyards I needed replaced. I'm also going to get some cheap sta-set x for a topping lift for the pole.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Ape-X
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2015 : 03:59:06

schnool, pay to have the eye splice put in the sta-set-x! Trust me....

s/v No Worries, O'Day 28
PO Moe'Uhane - C25 SR/FK #1746

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.