Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Did a search with those two words and got no hits so will pose the question. Has any one tried what has been touted to restore a battery that is sulfated. According to some reading, if a battery will measure enough voltage to indicate no cells are open, it can often be restored to service by a process of draining the fluid, replacing with a solution of epsom salts and then slow charging for 24-36 hours.
I've no clue if it works, but am currently trying it on a deep cycle battery that has no swollen case, no leaking issues, and measured about 10V but when put on a charger, the charger identified the battery as sulfated.
Any one do this and did you have success or failure?
Won't hurt to try on a useless battery, but I can't see epsom salt, magnesium sulfate, having any useful effect in breaking down lead sulfate crystals.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/support/battery-care/tech-tip-articles/#3 -- I use Optima Blue Top batteries (AGM) which can be completely discharged and when they are you have to put a good battery in line with the old battery at the end of the chain. The charger will sense the good battery and charge them both up. My last set were 8 years old and working as expected when I sold the boat. I believe that the can be completely dischard and freeze without any damage, then recharged.
I recalled a discussion about desulfating batteries - where a pulse charger over charged the battery and was able to remove sulfation, but at the expense of the battery acid that needed replacing. "Desulfating" might be a useful search term. Then I googled and found several articles a out Epsom salt. I don't see how that would work since you're effectively eliminating all the acid from a lead-acid battery. I don't think a lead-epsom battery could possibly work, but I could be wrong!!! Finally I found a rather complete reference on restoring lead-acid batteries [url="http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq16.htm"]here[/url]. They recommended removing the acid, washing with distilled water, refilling with new acid, then recharging. It's fully described in the article. Replacing the old acid with new acid seems to make some sense. Whatever you decide, be prepared for spills on your skin by having plenty of fresh water handy. Make sure to wear old clothes that you don't mind ruining with acid and make sure to work in a well ventilated space as explosive hydrogen gas can be produced whenever you recharge a battery. All that said, you might just trade in the old one and get a spankin' new one instead. By the time you buy everything you need and spend hours cursing it out you could be sailing somewhere nice or spending time with friends.
Don't get to sucked in by battery maker claims. AGM's can <u>sometimes</u> be resurrected from 80-100% discharge, especially if they haven't sat in that condition for an extended period. Deep discharging an AGM shortens its service life like any other lead/acid battery. The spiral design is a definite improvement in structural integrity and the electrolyte paste is a step up from the colloidal gel cells, but the chemical process is still the same. AGMs and gels both have advantages over flooded cells besides not spilling and have longer service lives if treated properly. That still means discharging at least 10% regularly and not normally discharging beyond 50%. As for freezing, it depends on how frozen. Electrolyte gels and pastes retain more anti-freeze effects from the higher electrolyte concentration than a depleted flooded cell. A depleted flooded cell is essentially water.
Thanks guys.... The charger reconditioning cycle is still running, and I think takes 24-36 hours. Maybe by tomorrow I'll know if it helped any. The cost of the Epsom salts was two bucks so if it doesn't work, I've not lost much. In fact, it was only because the cost was minimal that I was willing to give it a try.
Several things I've read say to remove a small amount of the electrolyte acid, add some epsom salt solution to the remaining electrolyte, do the charging thing, and then empty, rinse, empty, rinse, and finally fill with new electrolyte. My impression is the salt solution changes the conductivity of the electrolyte in a way for which the battery is not designed, so is not to remain in there after the treatment.
I bought two new batteries this year, replacing two 7-year-old flooded batteries that were still operational (but slightly diminished). I hate being out on the Atlantic when my batteries decide to not start my engine. I suppose it's just another example of what a pussies a $+!nkp*++er$ are...
I'm thinking that I'll be getting a new Group 27 flooded lead-acid battery this week. The current battery seems to get discharged pretty quickly whilst using only a few LED lights, the VHF (listening) and the FM radio for about 4-5 hours. It drops from 12.6V to 12.3V pretty quickly (from green to amber). I haven't tried an overnighter but between 5 hours of lights, music, anchor light and 8 hours on the CPAP (it runs on 12VDC), I think the battery would be shot by morning. I'm with you Dave - rather be a *** with his engine running than a macho man pulling the starter cord over and over!
Ok... here are the results so far. The battery has come at least somewhat back to life, where somewhat means: I've yet to confirm whether it will hold a charge well and to what capacity degree.
The process has brought the battery back to reading good voltage numbers. To begin, the charger would not charge it, and after a few seconds of effort of trying would produces a message saying the battery was either open or sulfated. Highest voltage was around ten volts.
After the reconditioning, and slow charging for 36hrs I loaded it for about ten minutes running a 12v electric motor (old lawn mower starter) and then recharged. Before recharging the battery showed 12.8v. The charger started at twelve amps and quickly started reducing and when down to less than one amp, stopped and announced the battery was recharged. That took 2-3 minutes.
Previous to reconditioning, the charger would immediately cut back to two amps effort and within thirty seconds, stop and announce that the battery was either open or sulfated.
So... it appears that the process does work but to what success, only time can tell. If I were prepping the boat for a Great Lakes cruise, I'd have gone and bought a new battery but the current effort is to prep the boat for some local lake outings. We've had a good bit of rain recently and our local Corp lake ramps are suitable currently to launch and the grandkids have been wishing for some outings.
Encouraged somewhat by the results, I'm going to go ahead and do the same with the two six volt golf cart batteries. They are a few years older however and one of them has had some leakage and corrosion around one terminal though that may can be sealed.
Again, the issue for me, is that there is no outlay of expense for the effort and the batteries are not critical to any safety or operational issues. Epsom salts was only a couple of bucks and I've enough left to do the 6v batteries.
I'll report later on whether the 6v batteries come back to life and service time for the efforts.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br />I'm thinking that I'll be getting a new Group 27 flooded lead-acid battery this week. The current battery seems to get discharged pretty quickly whilst using only a few LED lights, the VHF (listening) and the FM radio for about 4-5 hours. It drops from 12.6V to 12.3V pretty quickly (from green to amber)...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Just curious - is it 12.3V with the VHF and FM radios still running, or is it 12.3V resting voltage after you've turned off the radios? The usual calibration tables that use voltage to estimate %charge apply to resting voltage only. 12.3V with the VHF and FM both running for 4-5 hours may not be so bad.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br />I haven't tried an overnighter but between 5 hours of lights, music, anchor light and 8 hours on the CPAP (it runs on 12VDC), I think the battery would be shot by morning. I'm with you Dave - rather be a *** with his engine running than a macho man pulling the starter cord over and over!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> How big is your motor? Why doesn't it start on the first pull? I've also been wondering about my 5-6 year old group 24 battery, but have been figuring "Why worry? The worst that can happen is I need to pull the starter cord." Maybe I'm underestimating the problem.
For many years I have done a reconditioning process similar to this discussion. I empty acid, flush with hose while inverted to dislodge and flush out bottoms of each cell and then refill with fresh acid. Charge battery up and do your tests. To supercharge a lead/acid battery put it on AGM charger position for a few hours.(higher charge voltage) I would not do this in a boat though, and it needs to be monitored closely for heating/venting problems. Another year or two use is typical for this procedure if the battery comes back up. Chief (Ind./Electronic Eng.)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TakeFive</i> <br />How big is your motor? Why doesn't it start on the first pull? I've also been wondering about my 5-6 year old group 24 battery, but have been figuring "Why worry? The worst that can happen is I need to pull the starter cord." Maybe I'm underestimating the problem.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">His is a Honda 8 (that used to be mine)--should start in 1-2 pulls, although the electric starter is nice. Mine is the Honda V6 from the Pilot SUV--a whole nuther story!
A preliminary report on the two 6v golf cart battery reconditioning efforts.
While considerably less optimistic of saving these batteries due to much greater age and the fact that the water level was below the top of the plates, I'm giving an effort just to satisfy my curiosity.
Best that I can recall, the batteries are 15 years old. So far, they were emptied of acid and refilled with solution of epsom salts, followed by a 24hr reconditioning cycle. They are now on the slow charger. Initial charging starting voltage was 5.6v. After 15min - 7.4v and after 30 min charging at 2amps the voltage has come up to 9.2v. After 1hr - 9.4v.
These are 110ah golf cart batteries so the 36hr slow charge may take two days or more to charge them.
At the 30min level, thinking there might be an open cell, each battery voltage was tested individually, one battery was at 4.5v and the other 4.7v so I didn't think there was an open cell or if there was, each had one... but I'm not thinking that to be the case...it appears that all cells are charging.
Any guesses to whether they will reach full voltage? Hold it for any useful condition, or have any capacity?
It has proven to be an interesting effort. So far, the 12v battery seems to have been revived and has been put back in the boat.
Edit note: What was I thinking, at 2amps it would take 3 days or so to charge them.
Rick - the Honda usually starts on the first or second pull. I can always run the entire boat from the engine alternator (12A). In my experience, the battery used to last longer a few years back. I am planning an overnight in June (the US Power Squadron's 100th anniversary) so I will see how well the battery holds up.
An update on the 2 - 6v battery reconditioning efforts.
Battery voltages at time intervals of recharge: <ol type="a"><li>11.2v - 13hrs</li><li>11.5v - 16hrs</li><li>11.6v - 18hrs</li><li>11.7v - 26hrs</li><li>11.9v - 36hrs</li><li>12.v - 43hrs</li></ol id="a">
Charging is now at the 39% estimated required time and charge condition corresponds fairly close at 35%.
Remember, these are larger batteries with a total of 220ah. At this point to have the expected charge time and state of charge within 4% of each other is interesting and encouraging that the batteries might be revived.
After six days, the two 6v golf cart batteries have charged to 12.7 and full charge voltage. Checking the charge current, it was 1.5amps so the charge time fits with the 220ah capacity.
The questions remaining are to what degree will the batteries hold capacity and to what capacity are they capable.
The plan is to monitor their voltage drop sitting for one week. Then using an old car headlight bulb, load them and determine capacity.
As promised a follow up report. Since charging, the batteries have set hooked up to the charger to read the voltage for three weeks. The charger is not in any charge mode, only monitoring voltage. Within the first hour of charging the voltage fell back to 12.6v or 95% capacity.
In one week, they fell to 12.3v or 65% capacity and have remained at that point now for two weeks. One of the two batteries indicates 6.2v and the other 6.1v.
My thoughts are that the batteries are capable of reasonable service especially given their capacity of 110 ah each.
An unknown is if the charger circuitry has any significant overhead load in its voltage measuring mode.
Pretty amazing for 15 year old batteries that were allowed to lay dead for many years.
Everyone keep aware that 110 amp hr is for 6 volts and stays 110 when series connected to a second one for 12 volts. amp hours only add when paralleled. I have run across lots of guys who didn't know this. Chief
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.