Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am looking for a cross section drawing of the standard rig mast. Does anyone have that from Catalina?
The existing wiring on my mast is deteriorated at the cabin top, so needs to be replaced. I intend to move the wiring fully internal to the mast, going through the mast plate down the compression post interior, then rear-ward inside the bilge. This should provide a clean completely wireless look.
The cross section drawing is necessary to assure proper clearances so the wires are not sheered off when dropping the mast.
s/v No Worries, O'Day 28 PO Moe'Uhane - C25 SR/FK #1746
The external deck plug works very well, there is a reason they are ubiquitous. By all means get a nicer one and add pins if you like but mast wiring is second only to outboards as a sailors nemesis, keep the wire where you can service it.
from the manual page on this website, post 1988 html figures.
Best shot I could remember
Shows a tube down the side of the mast. Mine did not have the tube. wires with foam stuff tied to the wires at intervals to keep them from banging the mast.
Pain in the butt to wire.. IMHO...Buy the wiring harness from catalina direct and make sure you bring some fish tape and lube.
yeah, thanks. I re-wired the mast last year, the toughest part was getting past the 3" lags holding the mast winch in place....It wasn't until I starte to wire it into the plug that I found some ground issues with the existing wire to the cabintop, hence the complete replacement back to the distribuition panel.
I used 4 conducter cable from Grainger, which doesn't fit my new connector anyway (OD is too large)
<< 3" lags holding the mast winch in place >>
That does not sound like fun... I forgot my fishtape and had to use the forstay as fishtape.. had to enlarge the mast hole at the steaming light. Added too many cable ties to prevent slapping and it became hard to pull..
we completely replaced the wiring in the mast: used water pipe insulation and zip ties, leaving the tales on. 3 ties at 120° orientation and used the old wiring as our fish tape.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OJ</i> <br />FWIW, we installed plastic conduit inside the mast of our previous 1981 C25. Now that was challenging, Used marine grade wire from Ancor. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
OJ, I received drawings for the mast from Catalina (didn't include the cross section though) some time ago. They show a plastic conduit riveted to the mast extrusion 1984 onward.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ape-X</i> <br />I am looking for a cross section drawing of the standard rig mast. Does anyone have that from Catalina? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Here's a sketch I did when I was planning for running new running rigging and wiring. It's to scale (3" x 4.5" outside dimensions). The three bolts are at the spreader brackets. The two outer ones were easily removed, but the middle one had a compression sleeve around it and I didn't think I could get it back on if I removed that bolt, so I built a sled to pull all the lines at once on one side, then I turned the mast over and pulled the lines and wires on the other side in a second pull. It's best to avoid having lines and/or wires wound around each other in there causing friction and wear.
Here's a link to some photos of the job; still haven't gotten around to organizing that website better or putting up pictures from some of the other work I've been doing:
This 10 piece (Harbor Freight 3/16" x 33 Ft. Fiberglass Wire Running Kit) was my tool. It still took me 4 hours of mast rotating and shaking to fish wires and halyards between the compression posts. I duck taped closed-cell foam (pipe insulation) at 12" intervals after much frustration trying to rivet 1/2 PVC pipe (which didn't fit two 14AWG duplex cables, anyways). I am happy for now with no cable rattle, and so far, clean halyard action.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.