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I just got a 1986 swing keel this spring and need to haul it out for the first time. I don't have a trailer so I need to buy stands for it and just want to make sure I'm getting the correct equipment. My understanding is that when you put a swing keel on the hard it's important to drop the keel all the way down and block it up to displace the weight that's supported by the stands, correct? So I'm thinking I need to purchase the taller boat stands (48" - 65"), and I believe four stands with pads and one stand with a v-head would be sufficient, but I was hoping for some confirmation before I go forward with buying them. If anyone on this forum could lend some advice it would be much appreciated. Thanks!
You could get by with less, but the taller stands will let you remove the keel if you ever need to. The keel only needs to come down a couple of inches for storage. If the keel comes down 1 - 2 inches to a support, half of the weight is taken off the boat. The keel support shouldn't take any of the hull weight, so dropping it all the way would make blocking height a very critical dimension. The minimum clearance for keel removal would be for the bottom of the retracted keel to be about two feet above ground level.
I was thinking the same thing--just forward and aft of the keel trunk, where you probably have the most structural strength. Stands are not intended to support the weight of the hull--only to keep it from tipping. My fin keel C-25 was blocked under the keel to support its weight--as you observed, not the way to do it with a swinger.
Dave is right about stands not being suitable for a swing keel. For about the same cost as the stands you can have someone build you a cradle. It's not as handy to store as the stands, but don't overbuild it and you can haul it home in the back of a pickup. Search the archives on this site and you'll find the plans for one with the correct (more or less) dimensions - a little (6 inches) taller helps when eventually servicing the keel pivot. The longitudinal support is what is needed to support the weight without deforming the hull -or worse. I used the plans and had a bunk style trailer made since I keep it on the trailer 6-7 months of the year. It can also be moved on the cradle - even dragged up on a flat-bed and hauled somewhere if the need arises.
OK, thanks everybody. I'm not sure I have the wherewithal to build a cradle on short notice, but it sounds like if I go with the stands I should be OK provided I block the centerline of the boat fore and aft of the keel trunk? And to do the blocking can I just use cinder blocks bordered by blocks of wood on the ground and against the boat? I'm new at this process so I apologize if I seem a little bit thick on the subject.
A cradle would be nicer if you have a place for it the rest of the time, but blocking as mentioned will be OK if you don't. Set the boat on the stands, block just below the hull just forward and aft of the keel and lower the stands. Top your blocking with a sandbag so it will conform to the hull, then block and lower the keel. Winter storage on blocks and stands will change the hull shape slightly, but it will recover with a few days in the water.
If you are having your boat hauled out, I'm assuming a boatyard with a travel lift is doing the work. If the yard is like the ones around here, the professionals will properly block and support the boat for you while you stand off to the side.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />...If the yard is like the ones around here, the professionals will properly block and support the boat for you while you stand off to the side.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Just make sure they understand that the boat should not be blocked under the raised keel so the keel trunk is supporting the hull--I've heard of that mistake being made, and it's very hard on the boat. As you observed at the start, the keel should be lowered somewhat so it rests on a block, supporting some of its own weight, <i>after</i> hull is properly supported. That's a critical difference between a fixed fin or wing and a swinger.
I'm a little skeptical about concrete/cinder blocks--the yards I know of use wood ties and blocks--never concrete blocks.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Just make sure they understand that the boat should not be blocked under the raised keel so the keel trunk is supporting the hull<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> When I had my trailer redone, they set the crossmember to support the keel and hull when they reassembled it. Better to make sure they do it right in the beginning than revising it later.
Cinder blocks can easily shatter when improperly loaded. Ties or stacked 4X4's are definitely safer.
Regarding supports for a swing keel... My marina uses 2 Jack stands along each side , and concrete blocks in front of and behind the swing keel ,with wood blocks on top. They never stand it so high that I can lower the keel all the way.. usually 40" to 48" off the ground. With the keel straight down the boat loses alot of its weight and strong winds might be able to flip it .. If you have it too low ,then you can't work on it!! Food for thought Frank Law About Time 3519 1983 SWK SR
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.