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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Thank you everyone on this forum who helped me, answered questions, and gave advice. And thanks to everyone who posts on here because I was also able to get information from archived threads.
All the old paint and primer was sanded off, blisters ground off, and the bottom faired. Through-hulls were resealed, keel pivot hardware inspected and pin replaced, and all keel lifting hardware including steel cable, clevis pin, turning ball, and cable conduit replaced. The rudder seams were resealed and the outboard lower assembly gear oil changed. Four coats of Interlux 2000 Barrier Paint were applied, followed by 3 coats of Interlux VC-17m anti-fouling paint. The topsides were polished and waxed with an orbital buffer.
I worked most weeknights and weekend days for 3 weeks. It was a lot of work, but enjoyable and worthwhile work. I also drank 3 cases of beer.
Nice work!! I plan to tackle a similar bottom job in the fall and I'm wondering what are the size, thread (pitch?) and length of the threaded rods required for this job? I'm in envy of your trackway too. I'll be doing my work while she is on the trailer.
Seth, that is one beautiful bottom. I would never tackle that job at my age. So my hat is off to you. I am sure you learned a lot. I did a lot of work on cars in my younger days, but I now dont even change my oil. Its great our members were so helpful. Enjoy the summer! Steve A
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by froell56</i> <br />Nice work!! I plan to tackle a similar bottom job in the fall and I'm wondering what are the size, thread (pitch?) and length of the threaded rods required for this job? I'm in envy of your trackway too. I'll be doing my work while she is on the trailer. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Thanks! The threaded rods should be 3/8" in diameter to match the size of the bolts they're temporarily replacing. They are the standard pitch for that size, not the fine pitch. The length would depend on how far you want to drop the keel. I bought 3 foot long rods, which were almost too big and way more than I needed. I could have done with 1 foot long rods. You only need to drop it 6" or so to get the hangers clear of the hull and remove them.
Another important consideration (that I missed the first time I was assembling this) is that you need to get connector nuts to go on the rods where the hangers will touch them. The bolt holes in the hangers are countersunk so that if you get regular nuts, you won't be able to reach them with a wrench (and of course they don't make a socket deep enough to go over that long rod to reach the nut). You need the long connector nuts to stick out of the countersunk hole so that you can get the wrench around them. I'm not sure if I've done a good job explaining that. Does that make sense?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by piseas</i> <br />Seth, that is one beautiful bottom. I would never tackle that job at my age. So my hat is off to you. I am sure you learned a lot. I did a lot of work on cars in my younger days, but I now dont even change my oil. Its great our members were so helpful. Enjoy the summer! Steve A <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Thanks Steve! Yes, I learned a tremendous amount. That was my first bottom job.
Thanks Seth! I hadn't thought of connector nuts but I wonder if a couple of stout washers between the nuts on the rod and the hangars would work as well to keep the nuts from sliding up into the recess in the hangars?
I may be tackling this project myself this fall....David B moved his boat out to Eagle Mountain and has a trailer available for rent. I have a buddy with a big Chevy 2500HD Quad Cab Long Bed...All I need now is a place to put her and stands to put her on for a few months.
Froell, yes, I think washers would do the trick instead of the connector nuts, maybe even better because that should make rotating the nuts easier if they are sized so they can't get bound up.
Paul, the rail lift is owned by the VISA Yacht Club on Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia. I'm a member there and use is included free with membership, subject to availability of course.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.