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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 mast head
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eguevara
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111 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/25/2012 :  21:57:50  Show Profile  Visit eguevara's Homepage
Does anyone know the best way to make the center of the mast head hollow to I can run internal halyards?


1986 C25 SR FK #5152
http://knoteasy.tumblr.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/eddyguevara/sets/72157626204345986/

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Mark Maxwell
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329 Posts

Response Posted - 02/25/2012 :  22:25:34  Show Profile
I'd trim out the area between the two support plates. Just under the inner half of each sheave. Catalina Direct has the internal sheaves you'll need. They are wider to accommodate the lack of the exit sheave used for external lines. Give them a call. They are very knowledgeable and may even have a kit to help you do this conversion right. 916/843-1971
Tuesday - Friday 10:00 - 5:00  Pacific Time

Edited by - Mark Maxwell on 02/27/2012 23:22:51
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JeanAndre
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224 Posts

Response Posted - 02/25/2012 :  22:31:53  Show Profile  Visit JeanAndre's Homepage
I would go with a combination of hole saw and different files to smooth the hole.

Anybody has other suggestions?

Cheers

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blanik
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210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/25/2012 :  22:45:08  Show Profile
is it made of aluminum? mine has the same "cast metal" finish but is all grey instead of black?!

if it's aluminum it's easy to drill

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Mark Maxwell
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329 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2012 :  08:26:58  Show Profile
Sorry your looking for info on how to make the cut not how to cut for internal lines. Drill out your pattern then stich cut with a reciprocating saw. Finish it with files and a dremel. Take your time and don't wack it with anything. That cast can crack then your in for a new one. Been there done that

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Lee Panza
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465 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2012 :  18:19:32  Show Profile  Visit Lee Panza's Homepage
I recently did this, so here's what I learned.

1. Take everything apart - remove the sheaves and the pins.

2. Drill a couple of fairly large holes (I think I did 1/2") to start the jigsaw blade. These, will allow you to locate the inside edges of the upper section.

3. Drill four holes at the corners of what will be the hole; make them small enough that the corners will be well out of the way of the lines (I think I did 1/4"). These should be flush with the sides of the upper cavity.

4. With the base of the jigsaw riding on the edges of the lower skirt, and the blade running against the inner walls of the upper section, cut out the floor; dress the edges with a fine file and/or sandpaper.

You should end up with something like this:



It's not fancy - I wouldn't want my machinist neighbor to critique it - but I did it all with common hand power tools, hand-held. Dressing the edges was the most laborious part.

Like so many other projects, this is much more intimidating, beforehand, than it is difficult to actually do.

In the picture you'll see the divider plate I added between the pairs of sheaves to prevent the lines from crossing; I expect to be raising and lowering the mast often, so the lines will have the opportunity to lift out of the sheaves.

You'll also note I cut a second notch in the lower skirt, similar to the one that the factory cut to make clearance for the sail channel. That's for an exit block I added just below the truck for the jib halyard, to avoid wrapping it.

BTW, if you're interested I'll try to get a shot or two of the lower exit plates I installed for where the lines exit the mast near its base. I'll be putting up more picture on my website once I've got the work done, but I wanted to respond to your request.

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eguevara
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Response Posted - 02/27/2012 :  15:46:33  Show Profile  Visit eguevara's Homepage
Lee this is awesome. Thank you for posting the picture and thanks for the description.
What is the thickness of the divider plate?

Thanks in advance.

-eddy

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blanik
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210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2012 :  16:09:10  Show Profile
what is the masthead made of? is it aluminum (if it isn't i guess you need to put Tef-gel between the masthead and the mast?!)

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eguevara
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Response Posted - 02/27/2012 :  17:33:19  Show Profile  Visit eguevara's Homepage
best I can tell.. it is anodized aluminum...

-eddy

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2012 :  19:08:53  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by eguevara</i>
<br />What is the thickness of the divider plate?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">


My guess is around 3/32".

[url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=177&ParentCat=149"]Mast Divider Plate SR[/url]


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blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2012 :  21:19:13  Show Profile
i have it in front of me, it is 3/32" thick, 6-3/32" long, 1-1/2" high, the center of the hole is at 1-15/32" from the left and 23/32" from the bottom

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Mark Maxwell
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329 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2012 :  22:49:48  Show Profile
I understand the purpose of the divider on external lines, since they run from one sheave to the other, aft to forward sheave and vise-verse. But with internal lines don't they just run from outside to inside over one sheave each? Or is that just for jib and main. Do you also run a spin line internally?

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Lee Panza
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465 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2012 :  23:06:55  Show Profile  Visit Lee Panza's Homepage
Eddy;

I checked the material I used - it was some .088" aluminum sheet stock I had lying around. That's a shade less than 3/32". But I still had to take a file to the inner sleeves of the ball bearing sheaves I bought from Catalina Direct (#H1883), which projected slightly more on one side than the other. Just be forewarned that it might be a little tight if you buy the sheaves and plate from CD. I'm wondering if Catalina modified the truck casting when they hollowed it out to run the lines down the middle.

BTW, when you get to looking at the other end of the mast, I'd suggest using Ronstan's exit plates (RF6031). They're less than $15 at Defender, and they don't require as wide a slot to be cut out of the side of the mast as the ones CD sells for the C-42.

Last night I put a few images onto the website I'm starting. By the time I'm caught up with actually doing the work I'll get around to putting up more pictures, but these may give you some ideas for what you're about to take on:

http://panza.smugmug.com/MYSAILBOAT/The-Boat-Renovation/Mast-Modifications/21650162_bHQXBG#!i=1727681552&k=GM5w8T7


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Sam001
Vice Commodore

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USA
441 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2012 :  01:40:45  Show Profile
you have done a great job of documentation for the project!

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