Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
As I mentioned, this was made by a previous owner and looks kind of funky, but it works well enough. The cut appears to be sealed with epoxy. I wasn't sure what the pressure distribution disks on each side were, but I think they may be round zincs drilled for the large bolt.
Thanks Dave! That's a neat design; I like how the designer used large pieces of stainless so as (I presume) to distribute the weight/force of the base portion across most of the top. Let's see if I understand what I'm seeing in the rest of the pics:
The clam cleat appears to keep enough pressure on the line attached to the base portion of the rudder that it basically "locks" the rudder into position, but not so much that the rudder can't kick up. Is that about right? I assume the rudder was literally just cut into two pieces, with a piece of stainless steel bolted to either side to join the pieces, and enough clearance between the top and bottom to allow the bottom to pivot around the bolt with the zincs.
Sorry to be a pain, but in looking it over, I've also come up with a few other questions: 1) do you have a shot from the end, showing the separation between the top and bottom parts of the rudder? 2) how is the "locking" rope attached to the bottom portion of the rudder? I'm surprised it isn't located lower down on the rudder base.
No, I'm not looking to make this mod yet. However, my new bay stays pretty shallow, and I can see where this could be advantageous if we keep running aground.
Thank You Dave ,Great photo's as I intend to modify my rudder in a similar manner. How thick is the S.S plate .? Is it 2 sheets as suggested in one photo. My c22 used cast Aluminium . So was thinking 1/4 Al plate ..
1. The cut is radiused from the bolt location and cut straight back from the leading edge to meet the arc so clearance is minimal, but I'll try to get another photo tomorrow. 2. The line attaches to a bracket at the leading edge near the top of the lower section. Keeping the attachment closer to the pivot point keeps the load more vertical if the rudder kicks back and creates less turbulence in the flow across the rudder. Snugging the nut/bolt keeps the rudder in position under normal loads.
Graeme, I would use 1/4" Al if I were building it. I will try for an approximate thickness tomorrow, and it is two thinner plates sandwiched on each side.
Aha! THAT'S what that handle-looking thing was for! So then the rope is really just for "retrieving" the end of the rudder? Do you cleat it with slack in the rope? Sorry for all the questions!!!!
No, it's nice stretchy nylon strung as tight as I can get it by hand. It acts like a stiff spring to pull the rudder back from a light bump and pops out of the clam on a hard bump and then I can use it to pull the rudder back with the clamp loosened. I added a couple of photos to the album, but they don't help much. The two plates combined are probably around 1/16"; I can't do any better without a caliper and having the rudder off.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.