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Removing a pesky Whale Galley Flipper Pump

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 01/14/2012 : 13:54:33

We removed ours by selling the boat.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 01/14/2012 : 15:57:05

I replaced the Whale with a Fynspray that pumped on both the upstroke and downstroke. But I like my current pressure system a lot better--I can hook up a hose, and it powers the head.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5358 Posts

Response Posted - 01/14/2012 : 19:31:01

A few months ago, Nigel Calder wrote an article about installing or servicing a pressurized system for your boat in Sail Magazine.

The principles of operation are simple.

The pump runs in a feedback loop with a pressure switch and an air pressure tank.

The water is pressurized by the pump which compresses an air tank and when the pressure builds up to 30 pounds (your system's pressure rating could be different), the pump would turn off. As you use water, the pressure falls below 30 psi, so the pump begins running again until it builds up to the threshold, then it cuts out.

There seeemed to be a slight amount of hysteresis (different on and off pressure levels) in the season to avoid the pump cycling on and off quickly. Seemed like an efficient design.

Is this how most pressurized systems work?

Edited by - on

Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2012 : 06:55:52

we have a simple electrical in-line water pump, activated by a foot switch at the sink. seems like the simplest system and the water tank is thennot pressurized.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4018 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2012 : 08:23:02

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Is this how most pressurized systems work?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Bruce, That system sounds like a system you would find on a large boat but most systems like mine are simple. The pump has a pressure switch built in. The only part of the system that is under pressure is down stream from the pump. Open a faucet and the pressure starts to drop in the line and the pump turns on. Close the faucet and the pump shuts off when the pressure re-builds in the line. This is usually around 25 to 45psi depending on the pump switch preset. By installing the pump at the outlet of the tank, You only need one pump to service all of your outlets. Pumps nowadays have eliminated the pulsing that would happen in a system like mine. Nigel Calder system would eliminate the pulsing if you used an older pump but newer pump designs have eliminated having to build a system like Nigel's.

Edited by - islander on 01/15/2012 10:48:21

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2012 : 10:02:48

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...newer pump designs have eliminated having to build a system like Nigel's.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Agreed. Our boats have little space to spare for an accumulator tank, especially if you're setting it up for cruising, but a pressurized delivery system is really nice!

I recently installed a Flojet #4406 and it generally provides smooth, buzz-free flow (the pump will cycle if the flow is reduced to a certain level, but that generally doesn't happen in normal use, and when it does it's just a minor buzzing noise from the pump with negligible effect on the flow at the faucet).

I had done some 'research' and bought it here:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/12-volt-water-pump.htm

...and I'm quite satisfied with it (as well as with the transaction). It appears to be well-designed and well-made, and it was easy to install - with included straight and right-angle quick-connect fittings for threaded or barbed hose connections.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2012 : 10:17:07

I don't recall the make or model of my pump, and Sarge is shrink-wrapped... but it has no special tank, and is a little bigger than a beer can (a standard sailor's measurement), tucked away under my galley cabinet. When I turn on a galley faucet or flush the head, it runs as long as pressure is relieved. The faster the flow, the less pulsing--full flow is smooth. There's a separate switch for it on my panel, so it isn't reading the pressure unless I turn it on. I'm thinking about adding a line off the system to rig windshield washers to deal with salt spray.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/15/2012 10:24:12

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4018 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2012 : 11:11:12

If some members are thinking about pressurizing their system, It's not a hard project. I think the hardest part was crafting some cover plates for the large holes left by the flipper pumps. I used a Par-Max 1.9 pump due to the lower Amp draw of 3.5 and the 1.9 gal is more than adequate for the job ( 3 outlets ) and the 1/2in. ports making it an easy hook up to the 1/2in. waterlines in the C25. Dave, I like the windshield wiper idea being an ex- power-boater in salt water I know what you mean.

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NautiC25
Admiral

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USA
957 Posts

Response Posted - 01/16/2012 : 09:34:18

The Flojet I bought also has a built-in pressure switch. I have the pump wired to a switch however, so it doesn't keep pressure in the lines while away.

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Arlington
Navigator

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USA
196 Posts

Response Posted - 01/22/2012 : 23:10:29

I have not given up. With Howard Webb's help rotating the flipper pump from above with a strap wrench, while I held the nut with channel locks from below, we got the Whale Mark IV flipper pump out of the sink in the Head. It has a good 2" of threads that are stubborn from start to finish.

No luck finding a 2 1/2-inch? socket either, Lowes, Tractor Supply, Harbor Freight... nothing or out of stock. Rumor has it that Northern Tool has some for about $20.

The next surprise was that no matter how clean your tank and lines are-the inside of these pumps may be well coated with multiple forms of slime, gunk and fungus. This stuff was still inside the pump even after I had flushed the tank, lines and faucets with a full tank of water and a quart or more of bleach. YUCK, I would never drink that water if I hadn't cleaned the flipper pumps as well.

BTW, I did not find any easily replaceable o rings inside of it either. I am skeptical of the hardware store having any compatible parts. I ordered a Whale rebuild kit, so I am waiting to see what parts they send, as well as hopefully a diagram to see where the parts go, that fell out of it during dis-assembly.
Doug

Edited by - on

Arlington
Navigator

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USA
196 Posts

Response Posted - 02/07/2012 : 09:25:10

Update:
1. I did find the o rings; in the handle and in the spout connections to the pump. I am going to try to see if just replacing these o rings on my second pump solves it's leakage problem.

2. I found a 2 1/4-inch socket at Northern Tool & Equipment for $17.00, but it is too short to go up past the body of the pump to reach the nut. You need a deepwell socket, and it looks like no such socket exists.

3. I wrote to Whale, asking if I cut the old nuts off, are new nuts are available?

4. I also asked Whale if they had any other suggestions.
Doug

Edited by - Arlington on 02/07/2012 09:27:24

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