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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've been watching this thread closely as I'm afraid our rudder is nearing the end of its life... Any idea as to timelines when the rudders will be ready for production?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i> <br />Nauti - you don't have to. If yours is the balanced rudder you are our guy...
See if you can ship yours to them and have it be the prototype, you get a free rudder out of teh deal - but you may be out a rudder for a while. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If nauti is unable to part with his rudder I can, I have two rudders currently. Mine is a 1979 and has the slpit starting. How do I tell if it is balanced?
Ah I see he has sent his. Be awesome to see how this turns out. nauti, need to borrow a rudder?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jhinton</i> <br />I've been watching this thread closely as I'm afraid our rudder is nearing the end of its life... Any idea as to timelines when the rudders will be ready for production? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Don said it would take a week or two for him to make a new mold off mine. My rudder was shipped last tuesday and got there friday. I'll definately keep you all posted if I hear anything about the progress. I'm just as, if not more anxious.
Thanks for the offer Peter. It's definately tempting, but I don't think I can make it back to my boat anytime soon anyways.
The balanced rudder was apparently standard in the ~88+ models.
My rudder has developed a shake to it. Might try out the other rudder soon, bought it from a guy here in the swap meet. Got a rudder, two anchors, a fullyy battened mansail and a tiller for $200.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by NautiC25</i> <br />Don said it would take a week or two for him to make a new mold off mine.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
My rudder had a shake/shimmy in it last year but I haven't noticed it this year. I think it was caused by a little bit of asymmetrical algae buildup on the lower end of the rudder. It probably fell off during the winter months.
I built a balanced rudder from the prints available here online. It made a huge improvement in the handling over the original rudder. Mine gets a little shimmy when the keel is all the way up but goes away when down. I am so far blaming the craggy surface of the keel (hope to remove and fair it this fall). Wes
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by GaryB</i> <br />My rudder had a shake/shimmy in it last year but I haven't noticed it this year. I think it was caused by a little bit of asymmetrical algae buildup on the lower end of the rudder. It probably fell off during the winter months. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">We have primed the rudder and it is being sanded and made (fair).
Don <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by GaryB</i> <br />My rudder had a shake/shimmy in it last year but I haven't noticed it this year. I think it was caused by a little bit of asymmetrical algae buildup on the lower end of the rudder. It probably fell off during the winter months. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Gary,
I have had always had a slight shimmy in the rudder for close to 35 years on Confetti, even with a totally new bottom job. For me, I think I only feel it when the boat is not making any leeway at all (i/e/ like under power or on a dead run, etc.), so for me I think its simply turbulence coming aft off the fin keel.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> The attached photo is of the first side of the mold in process. We are starting the second side this week.
Any idea on the final cost for the rudder? I need a new one before the season starts and I'd love to save a few bucks....Please post once you find out....
Don said that he'd come over here once it's ready for distribution and provide us with more details on the fabrication and pricing. I'll definately remind him though.
I may be interested in replacing my '89 rudder as well. I would want to get exactly the same...and so would be interested in what the specific fabrication consists of andf how if any it differs from my original rudder. My thought is that my original rudder is 22 years old and seems right now to be functioning fine. If a replacement can provide same expected service, then I'm interested.
Don says the rudder is finished!!! He's putting on the hardware and is looking into the sleeve for the tiller bolt. He mentioned using a stainless sleeve. I told him it was a 3/8" bolt. Can anyone verify that?
Your new rudder leaves tomorrow. The Fed Ex tracking number is ###. If you want to use a marine seal under the hardware I would: 1. Remove the hardware. 2. Apply sealing material to the bolts and pintal brackets. 3. Reinstall the hardware but do not tighten the bolts. 4. Install the rudder on the boat. 5. Tighten the bolts on the pintal brackets.
In this manner the pintals should align themselves in the gudegons before you tighten the bolts.
Let me know how everything works out.
Don Proul The Foss Company <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I'm not quite sure what he means by doing this? Is the rudder not sealed where the bolts penetrate, so they need sealant? If no one knows, I'll give him a call about it when I get the rudder back for more details. OMG, I can't wait! lol I'm going through sailing withdrawls bad.
Wow ! Looking at the new rudder in the shipping crate....looks great ! In regards to sealing, removing/re-installing the hardware and then installing the rudder on the boat. It must be past my bedtime because I am starting to dream already ! How about just hang the new rudder in an adjacent slip and see if you can clone a new boat (sort of like Woody Allen trying to clone the president from just his nose). Like I said...time for me to hit the sack.
The location of teh pintals and gudgeons will vary from boat to boat, so what he is suggesting is that you wait to tighten the bolts until everything is lined up just so. At least that is how I read it. I am not sure if I would even want the holes drilled for the pintal bolts since my PO relocated teh gudgeons in a refit.
That's sorta what I was thinking, however he has my original rudder and is using the original hardware, so he should be able to install them in the same location. Hopefully he'll hop over here with more info and pricing when he gets it.
I would think that to ensure the holes are drilled accurately, perhaps a prospective purchaser would supply a paper template taken off of his existing rudder and hole locations, etc referenced info could be provided before fabrication.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.