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Seacock Mtn If Stiff To Operate

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3440 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/18/2011 : 04:52:50

Thought I would start another seacock subject regarding what I do to keep the seacock from getting too stiff to operate. I had this issue when I purchased my boat over 5 years ago. The seacock under the VBerth was easy enough to operate but the seacock under the stove area was extremely stiff to operate. It was so stiff that I was concerned that eventually the handle would break off or the valve stem shaft would snap/deform. If I left it alone in the shut position rather than periodic cycling of it, then the concern is that it would never be able to be opened and subsequently shut.

The issue was solved by using a dab of synthetic bike wheel grease on the end of a narrow stiff epoxy style brush (the ones that WM sells in the 5-10 in a bag pack). When I go over to the Washington Sailing Marina to get my annual pressure-wash (since my boat stays in the water all year-round except for bottom painting after 5years). when they get done with the pressure wash, I shove just a small amount of grease in the seacock access hole from under the hull and spread it onto the seacock ball. Then when I get back to my marina, I cycle the seacock several times. This has made the seacock a lot easier to operate. It is still somewhat tight but now a non-problem. I do this mtn once a year and it takes no time at all...as long as I remember to bring the grease tube and one of those small brushes.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4018 Posts

Response Posted - 02/18/2011 : 07:06:48

I keep a tube of swimming pool lube on the boat and use it just for such things like valves, O- Rings, zippers, snaps etc. I always thought that if it can stand up to swimming pool chemicals it would work well in salt water and it does.

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 02/18/2011 : 08:05:17

Islander - Is that stuff a thin grease, or an oil?

These are good ideas. my seacocks are getting harder and harder to turn and I fear snapping one off someday.

Since we winter store in teh driveway, I just leave them open all winter, but when the day comes that I need to stop water quickly, I want to know they will shut.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4018 Posts

Response Posted - 02/18/2011 : 13:11:56

It's a grease consistency that is clear in color similar to silicone.
The problem with sea-cocks is ( I'm guilty of this also ) that like anything they have to be moved on a regular basis to keep them working but when the boat is in the water most people don't want to touch them for fear of it breaking or causing a leak.

Then if you ever had to close one in an emergency, Well you know how that will turn out.

Edited by - islander on 02/18/2011 13:23:49

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 02/18/2011 : 21:53:15

Vaseline and other benign lubes are fine, but as Islanderr says, marlon doesn't need lube if you cycle it periodically.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 02/18/2011 21:54:22

steve25
1st Mate

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USA
27 Posts

Response Posted - 02/19/2011 : 06:13:15

This might be a little off topic, and unfortunately I don't have a pic, but on my bow seacock I protected it from items that might be stored in that area.

I used a 4 to 5 inch long piece of 6 inch (as I recall) PVC pipe with a notch for the swing of the valve handle. I epoxied it in place. It took some custom sanding to get it to mate to the hull properly.

Now when I store stuff up there, I have no worry about it snapping it off.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3440 Posts

Response Posted - 02/19/2011 : 07:54:53

The owners manual indicates to periodically cycle the seacocks and that is about the only reason I ever open my seacocks. However, the issue with my boat and I suspect this has been experienced by others as well, is that past history before purchasing the boat is not known - The PO may not have cycled the seacocks periodically. So, left with troubleshooting options, a little dab of grease followed by cycling seems to do the trick. While the binding on the one seacock that causes me concern is pretty much a non-issue now, I periodically cycle throughout the year and not just annually. While it is much easier to operate these days, it is still not ideal and not as easy to cycle as my other seacock. So, there is still some binding and that is why I annually grease dab the seacock ball. My other seacock - I have no concerns and no need for the grease.

Saw the posting about protecting the bow seacock from external damage. I had this concern especially if I were to allow others to retrieve and store items below the Vberth area where the seacock and depth sensor is located. I built a clear, plexiglass shelf/enclosure for that area so that area is protected. The plexiglass is not permanently attached but it is a bit elaborate in it's construction. It does not directly touch the hull surface. Dense foam pad is adhered to the hull surface under the plexiglas shelf supports. There really is no need to ever remove it. Some photos from my website:

Edited by - on

calden
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 02/20/2011 : 09:40:52

I bought my '83 Catalina 25 last summer, and had the bottom painted in the summer. They suggested replacing the black marlon seacocks. They noted that even if the original catalina "Mount-Of-Epoxy" installation didn't break off (as noted in some of the forum postings here) that sometimes the handle breaks off. So I had them put on bronze seacocks like this:

Nice upgrade. I never have to worry about anything breaking off or the mounting method failing, and it's a plus for resale.

Carlos

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.