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Placing teak plywood on walls

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ruachwrights
Captain

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USA
258 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/01/2010 : 08:01:11

In addition to putting new teak and holly ply on the floor, I am also considering placing 5mm teak (mahogany or cherry) plywood on the walls above settee backs up to the existing teak trim on the cabin wall of the 250. I am even considering cutting the ply into strips to give the illusion of real teak boards. I'll bet it will jazz up the interior considerably.

My only question is, how should I fasten the teak onto the walls? Will I damage the boat by screwing lumber onto the fiberglass (given I use short screws)? Should I skip the use of screws entirely and use some sort of liquid nail product? Should I epoxy the drill areas before inserting screws?

Vern

97 Catalina 250 TR/ WK
Hull #301
Attleboro, MA

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2010 : 10:42:56

Vern, ours came with some faux wood lath that was double stick taped to the interior of the hull. Gives the boat a nice wooden interior look, but the "wood" is actually foam. Each lath is about 1-1/4", with about an 1/8" gap between each. I'm not sure I would have done it that way, but I've seen no reason to remove or change them. The only problem we've encountered is the very ends of a few of them have delaminated from their tape holding them to the bulkhead, so the ends can get a bit out of line. Again, not a big enough deal for me to try to fix it (thus far).

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2010 : 10:56:15

Vern, you asked one of the tougher questions I've seen on the forum.

I'm in hopes that you will get a professional to answer your question. I'm a carpenter and hate to install anything that can't be repaired fairly easily. If using a liquid nails type product, I'd want a product that would loosen by a heat gun for repairs.

I think the Liquid Nails brand will soften with 140 degrees to enable a repair.

Liquid nails would be possible albeit with a lot of effort to return to the hull liner as the wood and most of the adhesive can be removed with heat and the remainder chemically but I sure would hate such a task.

If you screwed it on and someday it deteriorated (maybe suffered a bad case of mildew), an intentional screw pattern could allow removal and then trim strips over the screw holes for a far easier effort than if it were put on with adhesive.

Sorry, no definitive answer but maybe helped get broader perspective.

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ruachwrights
Captain

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USA
258 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2010 : 11:34:51

David,
Do you have a picture of what the faux wood looks like on your wall?

Vern

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2010 : 13:45:01

Here's the best one I can find on short notice:

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SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2010 : 06:24:30

i always thought about putting some fabric on the walls ..there .
when your sleeping and your arm hits the cold fiberglass that always wakes me up :D

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Patrice C25
1st Mate

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78 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2010 : 10:10:33

Hi,
Just an idea, why not glue a small strip of wood 1'' wide every 16'' or so. It will be easier to follow hull curves. Then you can screw your finish wood on it. Can be removed easily for refinish or repair.

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willy
Captain

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USA
422 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2010 : 18:18:16

Vern,
I may be stating the obvious, but I am thinking ...if you do use a liquid construction adhesive to hold the strips up, it would be good to have something with a bit of elasticity in it after it sets up to keep it from peeling itself off when the hull flexes!
Willy

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2010 : 18:45:24

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by willy
 Vern,
I may be stating the obvious, but I am thinking ...if you do use a liquid construction adhesive to hold the strips up, it would be good to have something with a bit of elasticity in it after it sets up to keep it from peeling itself off when the hull flexes!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If there is any fore-to-aft curvature, the bent wood will constantly pull against the adhesive until it eventually lets go. Before using screws, I'd hand-drill a tiny experimental hole to test how much clearance there is between the liner and exterior.

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Dan Lamb
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2010 : 12:16:15

Vern,

A product that isn't generally thought of as an adhesive, but works very well and will provide flexiblity and movement is 100% clear silicone. If you decide to remove the wood paneling it will not damage the substrate/bulkhead or the wood and is easily cleaned up with a little effort. The trick is to devise something that will hold the panel in place while the silicone dries. I've used silicone in some very demanding applications and it has always made the grade. One thing you might try would be to take two 1"x2"x6' furring strips and stretch them across from port to starboard. Have an extra hand help you hold the two furring strips while you put pressure to both bulkheads and use a couple of C-clamps to hold them in place until the silicone dries. Good luck

Dan Lamb

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