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Refinishing teak

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michaelj
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132 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/27/2009 : 05:54:53

I've asked about this before and been referred to a number of threads and other sources, but I must say that I am still somewhat confused. Is there any downside to cleaning the teak (and in this case I am referring only to the handrails and dropboards) with TSP and then applying a stain/polyurethane combination? Thanks.

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Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2009 : 06:31:57

My guess is the stain/polyurethane combination will not hold up to the marine environment weathering that well. I highly recommend the Cetol Natural Teak finish. I'm very happy with mine and it still looks excellent over a year later.

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Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2009 : 06:40:27

I had the stain/polyurethane combination on my boat when I purchased her. Looked great! Right up until the time the polyurethane started peeling. You cannot add new coats of polyurethane over old. It will not adhere. I had to remove all of the old and start over. I used Light Cetol and am very pleased with the results and ease of applying new coats in subsequent years.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2009 : 06:51:44

Hi Michael... The problem with polyurethane and other hard varnishes is that when (eventually) some moisture finds its way through a crack, scratch, joint, screw hole, or whatever, some of the varnish starts letting go. Also, teak has a lot of oil that tends to expand in sunlight, which tries to push poly or varnish off the surface (and often succeeds). The only way to fix it is to remove all of the stuff and start over. Check the recent comments by (I forget whom) about Bristol Finish...

Cetol is a soft, slightly permeable finish that tends to wear away. Even where it flakes off a little (which it sometimes does), the area can be smoothed out with a Scotchbright pad or very fine sandpaper and touched up. After an initial 4-6 coats, a dress-coat each season keeps it looking good--maybe twice a season in the South.

Polyurethane is fine down below--I wouldn't use it on exterior teak.

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michaelj
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132 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2009 : 07:21:13

Thanks to all. Cetol seems to be the ticket.

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fpill
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2009 : 07:47:02

Michael,
I just finished my teak this spring with Cetol Natural and I'm very happy with the results. I would recommend Cetol to anyone that asked me.

If I could comment on the teak cleaning. You didn't mention it, but just in case, you should make sure all old varnish (or whatever you have) is completely stripped off the teak. I tried a variety of ways to remove the old varnish (stripper, heat gun, sand paper) all had different areas where they out preformed the others.

I used TSP and oxalic acid to clean and brighten the teak. I didn't notice it did much however. The TSP may have done its job removing surface oils, but the teak did not change color (brighten) from the oxalic acid.

I hope this helps

Edited by - fpill on 05/27/2009 07:51:49

hillerji
1st Mate

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USA
37 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2009 : 08:22:41

Michael,

One more affirmation here for the Cetol/Sikkens Teak finish. I removed cabin top hand rails, sliding top guide rails, crib boards, crib board guides and the corresponding trim boards off the boat. I did start with some Strip Eze and than proceeded to sand them all down. I think by the time I was done I probably had 4 coats on them. I think they look great, much better than the bare wood hand rails and the overcoated other pieces. The threshold I did in place as I couldn't get the screws out. I had a qt of the Cetol and I still have about 1/3 left in the can. A word of caution when removing screws especially from the handrail, watch for any that are different lengths. When I replaced one it started to pop out of the rail on the topside because I think it may have had a shorter screw than the rest originally.
Have fun,

Jon

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2009 : 08:41:43

If your teak has been oiled and not varnished, cleaning is relatively simple. We use a mild detergent like dishwashing liquid with a little bleach added, and a soft bristle brush. After washing a small area, rinse thoroughly, let it dry completely before reapplying teak oil. I have found that a 1" foam brush works well to apply the oil. Be careful, for the oil will stain the fiberglass. Wipe excess off carefully with a clean cloth. If it really soaks in, you may want to apply a second light coat, wiping excess again.

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