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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have been replacing the female side of my mast wire connector about every year and a half due to corrosion. No amount of slathering goops of all varieties seemed to help increase this service life. Also, installing the connector each time was very difficult as there was very little wire slack in the deck to work with. When the mast lights stopped working this spring, I knew it was time for that connector to pack its bags.
Since I rarely drop my mast, I'm not willing to sacrifice corrosion resistance to easily unplug the wires. I wanted something more permanent with the connection inside the boat away from the weather. On my '82, the mast wiring runs along the port side to the bulkead, then through the fiberglass ridge that supports the bulkhead to the connector. I was unable to pull the wires out of the channel they ran inside of, so I just clipped them off as close as possible at the bulkhead and inside the hole in the deck. I then drilled down and forward through the hole in the deck, and sure enough, the bit came out just in front of the bulkhead in the head area.
I extended the mast wire by soldering, liquid electrical taping, heat shrink wrapping (individually then together) the 3 mast wires to 3 extension leads that I then ran down into the deck. I kept the outside barrel of the deck connector, then oozed 4200 into the connector barrel around the wire. Here is is after it dried:
Not the most beautiful thing in the world, but I was going for funcationality. I then extended the wires from the port side near the bulkhead to go into the head area to a terminal block there. I prefer to have my wiring visible when possible, and this makes it easy to test voltages and resistances if (when) troubleshooting becomes necessary in the future:
If I need to take the mast down, I can pull out that 4200, and pull the wires out from the terminal block. Hopefully the hole I drilled out is large enough to accomodate the ring terminals, but I can expand it next time as I didn't think of that until I was finished. And another deck connector can be easily installed later if desired. So if anybody else has as much bad luck with their deck connector as I did, this is an option.
Alan, I did the same thing a couple of years ago except I used compression fittings where the wire went through the deck. I haven't had to touch them since and the lights turn on bright as day whenever I need them.
You're starting to confirm my fears...Last weekend while scrubbing the deck /w the long-handled scrubber I hit the deck connector a bit too hard and stripped those tiny little screws out of the fiberglass (why such tiny little screws?) Anyway, I discovered in the process why my steaming light only works some of the time- one of the wires was barely connected under there. I was hoping there was going to be enough slack to pull the wire out and re-connect, but at first take, looks like a(as usual) a more complicated job than it should be
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by millermg</i> <br /> looks like a(as usual) a more complicated job than it should be <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> This has happened to me but my response, "A more complicated job than I WANT it to be". Steve A
I read on one of the forums that you can unbolt the bulkhead to get at the wires. It would probably be worth your time to recess them in the original channel, or use cable fasteners to hold them tightly into the corner, so a guest in the head doesn't accidentally snag them, tear them loose and short things out. Burnt fingers or an electrical fire are the last thing you need.
I have a 78, and I really dont have a problem with those wires,and connectors I spray them down with WD40 every once and a while and all are fully furnctional and work correctly , the only one I had to replace was the connector for the radio , which I bought at ray marine, radio shack has them to , but I can guarantee you the cheaper ones will rust in a matter of days,
When I worked as an electricians assistant we would put a cream on the lug connectors to prevent corrosion. 220 panel supply boxes. I've always been kinda suprised that no one ever mentions that for 12v systems. I've had some corrosion on the solar battery charger to battery connection and I was about to add some of it to the connection.
I think I'm going to try crimp connections at the bottom of the mast, painted over and taped up and painted over ( electrical paint ) and then through the deck to a bus bar as you have used. I had already purchased a bus bar and I was trying to make/find a plastic cover for it.
I've been using a battery powered LED lantern run up the forestay for an anchor light.
I've been think about using an inverted J-shaped conduit through the deck to thwart water infiltration where the mast wiring enters. Has anyone tried this approach? Seems as though it would be easier to water proof since water coming through the conduit will have to fight gravity to get into the end of the J. The seal between the deck and conduit will be easier to establish since the conduit will be rigid and smooth.
Using a dishwasher-to-disposer adapter and some automotive fuel line, I fashioned a boot for the deck connector to protect it from the weather. The fuel line also provides strain relief for the mast wiring. Since the boot and fuel lines fit very tight together, it wasn't necessary to use clamps.
Nice solution Don, I like the aspect of covering the connector. I always seal up my electrical connecters, but this one always seems to be troublesome in spite of it. I've never had water passing through the connector here, but the pins seem to corrode no matter how carefully I seal it.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.