Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So I got out for my first sail last week, and upon raising sails in a gusty but moderate 5-15kt wind, the first gentle puff knocked us sideways. Finally righted back up, but I thought we were going over for sure. Got the engine restarted, head to wind, and sails down pretty fast!
At least I was reassured that the boat did right itself rather than capsizing.
I came to the conclusion that the tank hadn't filled despite several minutes with both valves open (fill valve and air valve), and no sign of air coming out.
I did notice when we were dry that the valve had both a rubber "washer" and some kind of canvas one as well. I'm thinking that one or both of these is getting stuck as the fill valve comes down. (Yes, it definitely "dropped").
I'm planning to fill from a hose through the air valve this weekend, and move on for the summer.
My first thought was that you didn't drop the valve (unscrew and push it down) but you did. On the valve (bottom of boat) I only have the large rubber washer you mention, no canvas. That must of been quite a scarey incident. Every time before I sail I open up my valve and their is always a bit of air rushing through indicating that the WB tank must be drying out a bit (I don't put on the air vent plug). Maybe you could inspect the valve when on the trailer?
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 06/02/2008 22:41:53
Mine seemed to fill awefully fast and I was very nervous about it but I would say it is full based on how much we wind we were able to take the other day. The manual says something about being able to verify it is filled based on the vent line but I didn't see a line under the V berth anywhere.
I've heard of this problem but I haven't experienced it. The ballast tank value has a rubber gasket that "should be" glued to the metal tank cover. If glue dries out the gasket can separate. When you lower the value shaft, the incoming water creates suction and the gasket gets sucked back up the shaft and blocks the hole.
Another situation is when the boat sits on the trailer for a few months with the value closed. The gasket dries to the hull, so when to lower the valve shaft the metal cover lowers, but the gasket is still stuck to the hull.
You could fill the tank through the air vent, or check the value on the trailer.
Good points Russ. We leave the ballast valve open when the boat is on the trailer.
Phil, If the tank has any water in it, then opening the valve with the boat on the trailer that should clear the opening, but if the rubber has seperated from the metal valve plate, it could get sucked backup when in the water. Odd event.
I would open the valve on the trailer and launch with it open, very little chance that it would move after that.
Thanks for the input - sounds like my guess is right. Unfortunately I don't trailer the boat - straight from the boatyard to the water for the whole summer.
I was on the boat today and I can't get any movemetn of my centerboard. I figure it is time to break out the mask and snorkle and figure that one out. If the water would just warm up another few degrees. While I am under, I think I will see and make sure my valve opens like it is supposed to.
Food for thought, ballast tank full, centerboard stuck up. I've forgotten to lower the centerboard coming off an island etc. Lots of sideslip and virtually no movement forward.
SCnewbie, take a look at the tackle inside the boat. When the keel is fully retracted, the two blocks of the tackle are within inches of each other.
When the keel is fully down, the lower block is pretty close to the eye strap attached to the aft face of the valve casing (lower step)
If the tackle is twisted, then it can be a bear to pull up the keel.
If you look down the exhaust tube through which the keel line passes, you can see the line going to the turning ball at the bottom of the tube. It should be centered in the groove of that turning ball.
If you do go under the boat, check to see that the heatshrink tubing that is used to secure the knot where the vectran line attaches to the keel shackle, that heat shrink tubing can move down (aft) of the line and get stuck in the outside of the turning ball (don't ask how I know that!) I removed that heat shrink tubing permanently!
All of this is clearly shown in the manual.
BTW, what year is your boat (I'm being too lazy to research it online.)
I have a 1995. I added that to my signature. I should have done that weeks ago. Right now the two blocks are pretty far apart so it is down I would assume. Good, I can wait a few more weeks to look at it. I didn't notice much leeway when my daughter and I were sailing to windward last week. We are going out tomorrow and I will watch for that then.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.