Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
OK, so we set off last night into a strong wind. All of a sudden we hear a "ping" and there goes the starboard upper shroud. We quickly douse the main and all turns out OK as we sail just fine with the genny. Turns out that the little cotter ring must have come off or broken and then the clevis pin came out. The actual shroud did not break. So, I look around and I don't have another pin that size. The Admiral gives me "the look."
I am now putting together an emergency spares kit. What do you keep in yours??
We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails.
<font color="blue"><font size="4"><font face="Comic Sans MS">Well if you are going to use those round counter pins as you would call them, I would suggest you use rigging tape on all the stays.
You could also run a test...see how many pins you can pull out using your jib sheet lines rubbing against the stays. paulj</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size4"></font id="blue">
Look at starboard stays and jib sheet line. Some people run sheet lines inside,in between and outside around stays and they pull out those round rings. Now I'm sure this has not happened to someone else and this is a WAG. paulj
Paulj's photo shows the area. The upper starboard shroud runs from the mast top to the spreader tip and then to the deck. It ends in a turnbuckle that attaches to the deck plate using a toggle with a clevis pin. The clevis pin is held in place by a cotter ring.
Somehow the cotter ring came off on my boat and then the clevis pin wiggled out of the toggle which released the shroud.
Also, my understanding is that the "stays" are fore and aft while the "shrouds" are port and starboard. All are used to maintain the mast in column.
... and you continued to load your mast with no upper starboard stay by sailing under genny alone? Tell me I misunderstood that. In my book that is a motoring scenario.
The correct (and safe) procedure would have been to immediately flip over to the other tack, douse BOTH sails and motor home. I think that you are lucky not to have lost the mast.
Derek and Frank,thanks for the feedback. I agree with your points. Let me explain a bit more. I immediately let the sheet out and doused the main. We also furled the genoa all the way in. That gave us a calmer situation to work in. Though I could not find another clevis pin I did use a padlock shank to re-attach the shroud. Only then did we redeploy the genoa. Without the shroud re-attached I would have motored in.
The padlock shank was well up to the task of holding the shroud but our guests were a bit unnerved by the events and I felt that sailing with the jib alone was prudent. I should have posted the whole story but my main intent was to find out what others keep as spares.
<font color="blue"><font size="4"><font face="Comic Sans MS">There ya go someone was looking for a way to secure lines there some how. Now you can use the cleats and the locks for tie offs.. Make sure you use combination locks.... that way someone can not use one of those Bump Keys and rob you of those stainless steel locks. paulj</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size4"></font id="blue">
Well, Paulj nailed it. The genoa sheets run by the cotter rings and must occasionally snag them and start to straighten them out. Not good. Both port side shrouds showed evidence of this as well. Really not good. I will reverse the clevis pins and tape the cotter rings.
Paulj, believe it or not but the padlock is not stainless steel, it is brass. Of course the shank is stainless.
I took a few pictures tonight using my phone camera. I'll see if I can download them and then I'll post a few photos to show better what was up.
paulj, from your pic, I can see why Catalina moved the jib tracks. On our 2005 model, the track proint almost directly towards the shrouds. So for our model, the sheets always run outside of everything and we don't get that issue of the sheets turning around the sheets as in the port sheet in your pic. I see you are flying a 110% jib, do you have a larger sail?
Do you run the sheets inside the shrouds because when you move the jib traveler forward and on a close haul it allows you to really tighten up the jib??
Glad you are safe - That can be extremely scarey. Your innovative jury rigging with a padlock was pretty impressive.
To answer your question:
Spares kit has - amongst other things
2 or 3 of every screw or bolt on the boat plus additional washers, nuts etc. Cotter Pins cotter rings - SS annealing wire - Sail repair tape spinnaker repair tape Duct Tape rigging tape (not the amalgamated kind - regular white electrical) a large handful of spare clevis pins of varying lengths and diameters to fit all the pins on the boat. Impeller bottle of locktite Lithium grease Whipping twine Needle pack of fuses pack of bulbs One breakable instant cold pack 2 beers
Last two items are for project completion during emergency situations when the cooler is empty
With Inboard add: Impeller Primary and secondary fuel filter Oil Ethelyene Glycol Spare Belt Stuffing Box Wrenches Bleed wrench Oil Filter
To answer your original question my spare parts kit is similar to Champipple's with the inclusion of an extra winch handel, various lengths and diameters of line, a sailors palm, bungie cord, extra batteries, and some broken hardware that I figgure I could use for spare parts (yeah sure). All of this junk is kept in the lower aft drawer of galley. Sometimes the drawer won't open because stuff gets jambed up and I have to take the upper drawer out to free the lower drawer, so you get the Idea it's like the junk drawer in everyone's kitchen.
As for the cotter rings getting caught on the jib sheets; I install my rings so that they hang to the inside of the turnbuckles (between the turnbuckle and the cabin top) that way they are less likely to catch on the jib sheet (or crew ankles) which run to the outide of the turnbuckle. ofcourse I also tape them to the turnbuckle.
Congratulations on your cool headed handeling of a scary situation.
Thanks for finishing the story, I feel better now. You certainly know how to throw a dramatic aside into a post!
I am a recovering ebay junkie... do I have spares! Oy Vey! I carry Duane's list and more but since I buy assortments on ebay I have all the sizes of everything for our boats and every boat at the club up to 35'.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by frankr</i> <br />Don't forget to add some wire ties so your spare parts list also - <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Or learn to tie a constrictor knot!
I didn't include the line on my original list, but do have a spare rope, rode and line locker My list also includes the following in the tool box
1 - complete rachet set 2 - Butane blowtorch that uses a cigarette light for fuel 3 - 2 phillips and 2 flathead screwdrivers 4 - Cable cutters 5 - needlenose pliers 6 - a pair of reverse surgical forceps that are about 14 inches long - great for when you drop something behind something else. You MD's out there might know what I am talking about. 7 - crescent wrench 8 - hammer 9 - small hand Saw 10 - wire stripper and a huge assortment of crimp ends and splicers plus cable ties 11 - wire cutters 11 - vice grips 12 - channel lock pliers 13- 5 feet of spare wire 14 - about 5 feet of shock cord 15 - a electrical tester gizmo
In general we have 3 tool/parts boxes
A plano tackle box with tons of compartments for screws bolts nuts washers shock cord staples, rivets, impellers, cleats, shackles, labels, tape, wire, spare dowel plugs. listed in a prior post
I've got a tackle box on the boat that is chocked full of hardware and parts I've collected over the years. Handfuls of shackles, clevis pins, blocks, stainless steel hardware, and just about anything else. Years ago, a local Home Depot type store was going out of business, and in the final days, they put all stainless steel hardware on sale by the pound at some ridiculously low price. I must of walked out with about 10-15 pounds of assorted SS nuts (regular, acorns, locknuts) bolts, screws, washers, cotter pins, etc.
I would have used the main halyard to take the place of the shroud, thereby making sure that a dismasting was NOT going to happen while executing the padlock repair., Very ingenius. I once ran a hanked on jib over the roller furling foil with loosely attached zip ties. Worked great!
Also, while you are at Home Depot - buy a bolt cutter. Big long handles, lotsa leverage. Make sure you can cut the mast away should it go down. It can punch a hole in the hull. This should serve as a reminder to everyone to go over your rigging every year. Most rigging failures occur inside the turnbuckle where corrosion is hidden. WD40 all of them and move them back and forth several revolutions, mark them if needed, replace and tape all pins and make sure you can pull all of the pins should you not have bolt cutters on board. If there is any real resistance when "working" your turnbuckles you may have a problem.
Sten DPO Zephyr - '82 C25 FK SR Lysistrata - C&C 39
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.