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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

What I used on my Teak

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bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/04/2007 : 16:49:56

I used Teak Guard. I was skeptical to begin with, but after going thru the labor to do it and seeing the results the product merits the companys claims, I am sold on this stuff. It has given me the best finish I have ever had on any teak that I have worked with. Its a deep natural color not some over coating, or any thing that you get from other finishes, and best of all its once a year deal. So looks great and last all year. the link for this is http://www.allguardproducts.com/ OK, I am not selling this stuff, I just advocate its use, cause wow, look what it did for the sad old teak I had. well thats answers a question that I was ask several times. Enjoy and happy sailing.
Cheers

Capt.Bear, C42MKII "Surprise" #998 WK

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2007 : 17:12:45

Bear,
That's a nice looking finish on your woodwork. Got any "before" pictures?

Edited by - on

haley
1st Mate

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USA
59 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2007 : 19:43:32

How sad :<( was your sad old teak? I painted the teak trim on my Precision and have deep regrets. A lot of the older C25's I am seeing have severely neglected teak.

And BTW, your teak came out beautiful.

John

Edited by - on

haley
1st Mate

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USA
59 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2007 : 19:46:20

Thanks for the link - the manufacturer had some great before & after shots. But I'd still welcome any of your photos.

Now - how'd you get that hull shine?

jh

Edited by - on

bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2007 : 22:18:31

Haley, I use Vert Glass, another product that I found in my searchs, and was recomended by some of the guys here, its good stuff,,,,little work but no where near the work of waxing. http://www.marinestore.com/vertglas-images.htmlcart=3263843718497485
thats where I found what I bought. Will try n find some pics of before, I guess its not as sad as some of they guys CT grey, but it had been painted n varnished so it was tuff to get all the old stuff off...but it paid in spades....
cheers

Edited by - on

Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2007 : 22:19:34

Okay, I am half done with my teak. I am stripping off multiple coats and sanding the finish smooth. I am really concerned that I get a good finish the first time and avoid doing multiple coats year after year. I noticed that Sikkens now has a natural teak finish. I am thinking this might be the best finish to use. Has anyone used it yet. I guess I am hoping that someone has used each, Teak Oil, Sikkens and Teak Gaurd. Any other ones would be great to better understand also.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2007 : 10:49:33

Chris, I just put the first coat of Cetol Natural Teak on the exterior handrails on my new boat--it looks very nice--essentially like spar varnish except not as glossy. (Cetol Gloss can be put over it as with the other colors.) Natural Teak adds just a little yellow to the color of the wood, but appears to be much less "muddy" than the standard Cetol that I used on Passage, and probably less than Cetol Light (which I haven't used). I want to add a few more coats for the initial base. I'll post a picture shortly.

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bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2007 : 16:58:31

Chris, I have used Cetol, and I have use teak oil, and so far I am sold on the Teakguard, I will use it again next year, or at the end of the season. I really love the way it works, preserving the natual oils of the teak and allowing the true color of the wood to come out, and protecting naturally, guess its the natural part that I like, the stuff does not build up like cetol, and is onece a year like cetol. well good luck on your wood,,,,the key to teakguard is making sure the wood is clean using the cleaner they send, they also have a some info on there sight about care for you wood, opened my eyes to the caring for my teak. well take care. I know everyone has there own preferance, but I would strongly encouge using it.
Cheers

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2007 : 18:55:34

I'd agree with the "muddy" comment about Cetol. I redid the hatch board on my San Juan last year with 3 coats, and it still looks great 8 or so months later (admittedly mostly under a tarp), but it's definitely "muddy".

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 06/06/2007 : 11:23:04

I have seen some Cetol finishes which looked great, but it appears to me that you have to stay on top of it like any other finish. I have a friend who just bought an older, larger boat which has been done with Cetol and then ignored for several years. He hasn't started stripping yet, but I look at the places where it is flaking off and it looks to me as if he has "a long row to hoe." Question: is it going to be as difficult to strip and re-do as it looks? Or is it possible that the old Cetol is easier to strip or re-do than varnish, which I know to be a pain when it gets far ahead of you.

Edited by - on

Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 06/07/2007 : 20:44:23

Just about done stripping the prior finish off of the teak. I have noticed some black spots and some gray. The gray seems like they sand off, however the black doesn't come off. Should I be using a bleach / water mix to clean or is there something better?

Edited by - Chris Z on 06/08/2007 06:38:54

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2007 : 16:29:39

I like TSP for cleaning the wood and oxalic acid for bleaching it. You can get TSP at the hardware store and Oxalic acid is in the grocery store marketed as ZUD sink cleaner. Mix them up with water in the correct proportion which is "some of each." Pour it on, scrub, rinse it off, re-apply till done. You can do it this way because it is cheap as dirt when home-mixed and not bought from a boat store where it is--or used to be--the same stuff with fancier names and prices.

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Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2007 : 11:07:28

Charles,
Thanks for the tip. Let's see, I spent $7.21 at the hardware store. Not a bad deal. THANKS

One question, the TSP comes with the amount to mix. How much ZUD do you add to the TSP, or do you shake some on the wood while using the TSP and scrub?

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2007 : 12:10:00

Maybe I wasn't clear enough. The two are separate solutions. I have two quart bottles and mix up cleaner in one and bleach in the other. If there is a correct proportion, I don't know what it is, but I've been doing it this way for years with no problems. Just put "some" of the dry powder in a bottle and fill it up with water. Shake. Use. Mix some more. Repeat till done. Clean first, then bleach. You'll probably have to scrub it a little with a soft brush. The idea here is to try to limit brush scrubbing, as that will, over time, dig out the soft grain and leave you a ridged surface, which will eventually have to be sanded down. Every time you sand it down, you lose a little thickness. Eventually, the bungs start popping out. On the other hand, if you are going with Cetol, probably a good scrubbing once every few years won't wear it out in our lifetimes.

Edited by - on

josh-hansen
1st Mate

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USA
50 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2007 : 18:27:36

I love what you did to cover up the thru holes in your bulkhead. My boat has 2 4" holes on the starboard side and 1 on the port, so I'd like to do the same.

Is that a Raymarine BiData display on the starboard side? Also what is that to the left of it? How is it working for you? I'm thinking of replacing all my old analog instruments with a single unit.

Edited by - on

bear_tm4
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2007 : 22:29:54

Josh, I tried to email you this answer, it has been awhile....but any way here it is..question was...
Is that a Raymarine BiData display on the starboard side? Also what is that to the left of it? How is it working for you? I'm thinking of replacing all my old analog instruments with a single unit.

Yes it is Raymarine Bidata, and so far love it...its been great. no complaints. I was lucky didnt have to mess with putting thru hulls in I had the yard do it when they did my bottom job, so that part was easy.
The other little thing next to it, to the STB is my mount for my GPS, I have a little GPS Garmin 76csx, its great little tool..but now need the darn maps..lol...so thats next purches...but its nice.
sorry so long getting back, but supper crazy year with sick wife...
talk to you all later
Bear

Edited by - on

Headhunter
1st Mate

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74 Posts

Response Posted - 07/21/2007 : 10:22:47

I too really like how the holes in the bulkhead are covered with the teak "wings". Are those a kit or did you custom make them?

Edited by - on

KiteKraemer
Navigator

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191 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2007 : 12:24:48

Another good cheap solution, is plain old mayonaise. It IS awesome.
I use it all the time. Teak oil is good too, Mayo works just as well.

Edited by - on

Emile_Richardson
Deckhand

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USA
4 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2007 : 19:33:16

All,

This is a helpful forum. I have a question regarding process. We have a 77 Catalina that we've used Teak brightener and Teak oil just to clean up some of the weathered teak. There's still much of the wood with half the varnish on that we'd like to sand off and refinish. Did people remove the teak from the boat and do the refinishing work offsite or sand and refinish directly on the boat? Really I'm trying to understand if I want to get involved with all these fasteners that probably haven't been touched in 20 years.

Thoughts or advice?

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2007 : 21:01:19

Emile,

I removed the teak (except for the two trim pieces that were plugged) then took it home for refinishing.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2007 : 21:25:48

I remove and oil.

Edited by - on

Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2007 : 22:11:53

I guesse I'll have to refinish the teak on my boat before I put it up for sale, that is after I find a nice Ericson 32.

I have been thinking about how much I could lower the price if I don't refinish it.

What to do, what to do

Edited by - on

KiteKraemer
Navigator

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191 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2007 : 23:34:49

I would only remove the piece if I were to varnish or "laquer" it.
For Oiling--or Mayonaise (an excellent cheap alternative) --I leave it onboard. A 20 year old piece that needs serious sand-down and varnish--definatly needs to be removed from the vessel. That stuff is hard to work with and gets everywhere you don't want.

Edited by - on

Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2007 : 23:39:29

I am just finishing stripping and refinishing mine with Sikkens Natural Teak. I will put up a post of the before, during and after shots.

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2007 : 10:29:37

I just got my Teak Guard in the mail the other day. Had to call the company a couple weeks ago and remind them to ship what I bought in early June, but it did finally get here. Anyway I can't wait to check it out!

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2007 : 16:21:50

Mayonaise?

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