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Need help with the Hitch height

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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/19/2007 : 23:54:19

Since I will be towing my new baby from Salem Oregon to Calgary Alberta, I would like to know what is the best hitch height (off the ground) for an F-150 SuperCrew. My understanding is that the best height is when the trailer is level once on the hitch with about 600 pounds on the tongue. Could someone with a similar truck tell me how high off the ground the top of my hitch should be please?

I'm not planning on buying an equalizer hitch, just your regular one that is inserted in the back. I checked out the hitches tonight and they come in various drop downs. At a package of about $100, I'd like to buy the correct one the first time.

My truck is rated to tow 9500 lbs, so I was thinking that buying a 10,000 lbs rated hitch and 2" ball. Also saw the 6000 lbs ones, am I overdoing it going with the 10,000 lbs? What do you use?

Here are my parameters:
- Ford F-150 Supercrew, 5.4L, 2WD, Towing capacity 9500 lbs.
- 1999 Trail Rite trailer for the WB version.
- 1999 Catalina 250 WB

Steve
Calgary, AB.

Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB
C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 04/20/2007 00:03:21

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 04/20/2007 : 05:35:56

Around 17.5 inches.

The two inch ball is what mine has and it is marked 6,000 lb capacity and I've pulled 25,000 miles with it but I'd certainly verify the coupler size.

Keep in mind that a 6,000 lb hitch is not programmed to fail at 6,010 lbs but has a good bit of reserve ability... probably at least another 50%

Edited by - Arlyn Stewart on 04/20/2007 05:49:49

britinusa
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Response Posted - 04/20/2007 : 07:17:24

Steve, we have 2 hitch ball units, the plug in type. One is raised 2" the other is dropped 4.5". We use the dropped one when launching on shallow ramps as it gets the bow bunk in the water earlier (no need to back the truck into the water.) We always use the raised 2" ball when on the road.

(F150 5.4L 4x4 Lariat 2005)

Paul

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 04/20/2007 : 15:07:01

Brit, can you confirm that your 2" raised hitch is about 17.5" from the ground to the top of the hitch as Arlyn has mentioned?

You see, my truck is not a 4X4 and is a few inches lower to the ground than yours, but our suspension is the same. If we measure from the ground to the top of the hitch then truck height becomes a non-issue. I will make sure then that everything is at the correct height before picking up the 250 once I have your confirmation.

Arlyn, I agree that the 6000 lbs one should be enough and that it's probably got way more than 6000 lbs to it. Anyways shouldn't my boat + trailer weigh in at about 5000 lbs, maybe 5500 with gear on it?

Thanks a bunch guys.

Edited by - on

britinusa
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Response Posted - 04/20/2007 : 20:19:08

Steve, I just measured the distance from the top of the ball to the ground on the truck, it's 23.5" without the boat. If I get the chance, I'll hitch up tomorrow and measure it again under load.

Our trailer has an underslung extension tube, so we can't carry it too low on the road, we have grounded the tube carrier a few times pulling the boat out on the ramp.

Hope that helps.

A couple of trailer tricks up my sleeve:
a) I have sprayed a blue line on the roadway in front of my driveway: when I'm backing the boat into the driveway for loading, I keep the truck door open, and when the edge of the door is aligned with the blue line, then that's as far back as I can go (without getting concerned that something will hit the Garage.

b) I have a 2nd marker at the side of the house, that is the one that indicates I'm back enough for the ball to be under the trailer tongue, speeds up hitch up at the house side of things.

Paul

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
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Response Posted - 04/20/2007 : 23:33:01

Hi Paul,

Is your trailer the same as mine (mine is a 1999 trailrite)? You mention an "underslug extension tube". This sounds like a WK trailer no?
This is important, because if your coupler height is higher than mine then 23.5" will be too high.

On the other hand if you can get back to me with how many inches your truck drops (bumper to ground) once the trailer is on the truck then I will be able to calculate my optimum ball height. The gentleman who sold me the boat is measuring the distance from inside the trailer coupler to the ground as we speak. This with the trailer perfectly level and unhooked. So once I get how much your truck is lowering I will be able to calculate my optimum ball height.

What I'm trying to achieve is to have the boat trailer leveled once hooked up to the truck. My understanding is that this will improve saftey and comfort of the tow.

Thanks Paul,

Steve. Calgary.

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 04/20/2007 23:40:23

britinusa
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Response Posted - 04/21/2007 : 07:38:48

Steve, I just went and did the measurements before and after connecting the boat to the trailer.

At the point of connection (ie. not on the driveway but with the truck ball under the hitch)
Because I reallized that I could not measure to the top of the ball when hitched up, I measured to the top of the flange to which the ball is fitted. (All balls are the same

) I also put a piece of 4x2 on the ground under the hitch to get a constant measurement. The numbers below include the 2" for the 4x2.

Ground to top of ball flange = 21.5"
After lowering the tongue so that the full weight was on the ball:
Ground to top of ball flange = 19.5"

I was suprised that it only dropped by 2" when the weight is applied, had always assumed it was more than that.
Note: this is with the water tanks empty! they hold about 50gallons = ~ 417lbs. So maybe that's why the drop was only 2"

Oh. Third trailer trick: I keep the tongue connector at a height just enough so that when I back the truck up for connection, the top of the ball is just above (about =<0.25") the base of the hitch coupling. That way the trailer will center itself onto the ball and I can physically feel the connection in the truck cab.

I also keep a block under the trailer tongue when unhitched so that the weight is not actually supported on the raising jack, that's how I get the 1/4". When unhitching, I raise the tongue with the jack until it is just clear of the ball, put the block in place, then lower the tongue onto the block.

Works a charm.

paul

Edited by - britinusa on 04/21/2007 07:40:47

Steve Blackburn
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Response Posted - 04/21/2007 : 12:50:19

Paul,

The 2" drop is consistent with information I read some time ago on this. Now I'm 100% sure this is valid.

Now as soon as I get my trailer measurements from inside the coupler (where the balls fits) to the ground I will add 2" which will give me the perfect ball height.

Thank you so much for your efforts. Hope it wasn't too much of a bother. I can now drive 825 miles with peace of mind that I will hitch up safely and properly.

Warm regards,

Steve

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 04/21/2007 : 13:35:09

I just got my trailer measurments back. From inside of the coupler to the ground is 20". So a 22" ball height is needed to compensate for the 2" drop. This is also consistent with Paul's 21.5" ball height which makes sense. I'm off to buying my ball hitch now. Thanks again!

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
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Response Posted - 04/21/2007 : 20:17:08

From the ground to the top of my trailer ball (no trailer attached) is 17 inches.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
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Response Posted - 04/21/2007 : 22:00:09

Now my truck has balls (well 1). 8000 lbs ball. The ball sits at 22.5" from the ground and once hooked up it should drop to 20.5". This should put the trailer pretty much level. What bothers me now is that Arlyn and Tom both have measurments of about 17"-17.5". This is a 5" difference and quite significant.

Tom and Arlyn, are you telling me that unhooked your ball hitch stands at a height of 17" off the ground? If so, once hooked you should be nearly 15" off the ground. Is your trailer level or slightly lower than level?

Worst case scenario I could always turn over the hitch going from a raised 2" to a lowered 2" (nearly) putting me closer to Arlyn and Tom.

Stand by next week for the conclusion of this thrilling episode "the one ball truck".

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 04/21/2007 23:25:03

Second Wind53
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Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 00:19:09

Measured my ball height the other day as well on 2004 Trailrite WB trailor. 23 1/4" to top of ball. I have a straight tube out my receiver with the ball on it works great. Had a 2" drop and had to use a jack to get the get the trailer jack. Found this in walmart for $20 while we were picking our boat up.

Good luck

Peter

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
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Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 06:48:04

I do not know the effects of going higher than what I run at 17.5. The effects at lower are significantly greater porpoising. The 17.5 measurement is unloaded, and it definitely drops a couple of inches or slightly more loaded, especially my current truck as the springs seem slightly softer than the previous.

The 17.5 is at the upper limits of the stock trailer jack unless a block is used under it but that is not any great shake. From the comments it seems that higher works fine so if your 17 inches or better it should be ok.

My receiver insert has a height offset between the ways it can be inserted and when I first tried it the ball was about four inches lower and porpoising was bad... after inverting the porpoising is minor. There were no sway problems either way.

This fits with the often given suggestion to run the aft axle tires at 5 lbs more to load the aft axle slightly more than the forward for better trailer handling. There may be some cost to this however in tire failure... I've lost 3-4 tires while trailering... all on the right rear. Tire failures were common enough that I started carrying two spares to overcome the anxiety after mounting the spare of not having another but I've never had two failures on the same haul.

Edited by - on

CaptRon400
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Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 08:27:44

Since every boat, trailer and tow vehicle combination is a little different from the others, it's hard to pick a number for receiver height. But the rules are rather simple - try to keep the load (trailer) reasonably level and don't overload the hitch / receiver ratings. Note that a weight distributing hitch may be necessary to distribute the load over the entire tow vehicle. If the tongue weight exceeds 500 or 600 pounds (you'll usually find a sticker on the receiver), any 1/2 ton pickup may need the weight distributed for safety reasons, especially if you're pulling at higher speeds for longer distances.

Remember that you're offloading the front tires when you add weight behind the rear axle, which will effect the steering and brakes. You can use a yardstick at the fenders to measure exactly what's happening. I usually wind up with the front down around 1/2 inch and the rear down around 1 1/2 with nearly 700 pounds on my equalized 10,000 pound rated Avalanche receiver. Without the equal-i-zer, the front goes UP around 1 inch and the back down arouond 3. This has nothing to do with axle weight ratings and engine torque - you're trying to balance the load on the truck.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
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Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 13:19:08

Also, you can adjust the angle of the equal-i-zer bars to make the weight applied equally both front and back, so that the front and back suspensions compress equally.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 21:16:15

I have a consistent porpoising problem when towing our boat. My top of ball measurement is pretty close to 17.5". At this height, the rails on the trailer are pretty much level. According to what you said Arlyn, raising my tow height might help with the porpoising? It's not that noticeable at highway speeds, but at lower speeds if feels like a carnival ride at times, especially if it's a rough road.

BTW, just for the information, this a Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat. I talked to a guy today at an RV place who has the exact same truck. He was of the opinion that I might still be in the more lightly sprung upper area of the suspension (IE not enough tongue weight). If I got the suspension loaded down more, the porpoising might even out. Thoughts?

I do know that my San Juan & trailer tow like a dream, so it's not endemic to the truck, there must be a way to get the C-250 to tow better. Of course the SJ is probably less than half the weight.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 21:34:28

I have to say that it bothers me somewhat that there exists such a difference in ball height amongst us (17" - 23.5"). This apparently on the same type of trail-rite WB trailer. Of course we all have different year models, but when looking at pictures they all look the same.

Just a thought,

Steve

Edited by - on

Turk
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Response Posted - 04/23/2007 : 06:37:03

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by delliottg
 If I got the suspension loaded down more, the porpoising might even out. Thoughts?

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I have a Ford F-150 4x4 and I agree with what he told you. 600 lbs of tongue weight is a lot, but most people fear overloading the rear of the vehicle with this weight. Consequently you end up with a very springy ride.

I also have an 18 foot car hauler trailer that I use to move a Ford 3000 tractor and brush hog (about 6000 lbs.) I mark where the front axle ends up on the trailer to make sure I am getting enough tongue weight on the truck. If I'm off by 4-5 inches (vehicle to the rear of the trailer) I get some crazy out of control porpoising. I have noticed this also if while loading my boat and driving up the ramp, the boat can slip back a few inches. I didn't think anything of it since I have a very short distant to drive. The few inches off the bow block makes a big difference in the handling on the road. The boat will bounce.

Edited by - Turk on 04/23/2007 06:38:46

CaptRon400
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Response Posted - 04/24/2007 : 07:35:26

David -

You're obviously within the F250's specs, but I think you've got to measure the actual tongue weight. You can use a bathroom scale and 2x4's to do it - set up a 4 to 6 foot 2x4 with the scale at one end and some blocks at the other. Then lower the tongue perhaps 1/4 of the way from the solid end, look at the weight and multiply x 4. Assuming the wk and trailer weigh around 6,000, you should be shooting for around 10 percent of it on the tongue. Too little could cause some of the purposing. Too much will raise the trucks front end.

I'd then measure the static ride height of both the front and rear, loaded and unloaded - using a yardstick to check the distance from the fender lip to the ground. In a perfect world both will be compressed. My Avalanche goes down around 1/2 inch in front and 1 1/2 in back - with 700 pounds on the tongue and the weight distributing hitch properly adjusted. Without the torsion bars it will raise the front by around 1 inch, which could also cause purposing along with steering and braking problems.

I'm upgrading to a 1 ton Super or Heavy Duty this year, haven't figured out if I want a Ford or GMC yet. Do you have the Powerstroke 6.0? I'm waiting to see what sort of trouble Ford has with the new 6.4 and GM has with the 6.6. Either way I want to go crew cab long bed. The almost ridiculously long wheel base and 650 pounds of torque at fast idle will really help towing.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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Response Posted - 04/24/2007 : 09:55:24

I've got a '99 7.3 liter diesel Super Duty Lariat, so I don't know about the 6 liter. Had I had more time to search, I'd have found a crew cab long bed like you say, but I was under some time constraints, and this one fit the bill, plus Rita really liked it. Other than the porpoising and crappy mileage, I also really like the truck. I've added about $2k worth of improvements to go from 12 mpg to about 17 mpg now (4" intake & exhaust, new air filter & enclosure, Edge chip & Attitude control box). I figure about a 2 year amortization, but now my giant truck gets better mileage than my friend's new Jeep, and only about 2 mpg less than my old Toyota 4x4. Also, as hard as this one is to park, I wonder how much worse the long bed would have been.

I'll try to sort out the tongue weight, and I know that my boat tends to sit back from the bow snubber when I pull off the ramp, hopefully this will be rectified with the new two speed winch I just ordered. Maybe that couple of inches will be all it takes to get rid of the porpoising.

Edited by - on

CaptRon400
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Response Posted - 04/24/2007 : 10:25:42

David -

If the boat sits back from the bow snubber, that could be a significant part of the problem. You've got less weight at the tongue. You have to weigh the tongue to see what's happening there. And then get the bow further up if necessary. This could be a safety issue if you ever had to make a short stop - it could move on you. The frame holding the bow snubber is adjustable too.

I'm not all that concerned about the crew cab long bed length. I usually make at least 3 New Jersey / Florida trips a year pulling all sorts of stuff - including a 24 foot 11,000 pound (if filled to capacity) enclosed car hauler. Add in a dozen car shows and this will turn out to be the trucks main purpose in life. What really surprised me is the the approx 6,500 gvw C250 load is a lot worse to tow than the box hauler with 9,000 gvw. It's got to be the 12+ foot height sticking up into the airflow.

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
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Response Posted - 04/29/2007 : 17:59:13

I found this info in a Trailer Maintenance Article that I just posted in the General Forum.

"Trailer Ball Height:

The theory is that the trailer and tongue should be road level when attached to your towing vehicle. For proper load distribution you want the trailer frame to be close to level to the road. This is more important with dual axles than a single axle because the load needs to be distributed evenly on BOTH axles. If not, you can be exerting way more weight on your rear tires than they are designed for & can have premature tire failure, like a BLOW OUT. You may even have the rear tires dragging on the underside of the fenders.

I have heard that ball height is also more important when using a trailer the hydraulic surge brake set up. The word is if the tongue is too low then the trailer will apply pressure to the surge brakes towing on level ground. Then when you do need your trailer brakes, they would be much less effective because of all the heat. If the tongue was too high then the brakes would not apply as quick or hard enough as a properly hitched trailer would. This however slightly controversial & I would like for someone to explain to me in detail.

On many larger tandem and triple axle torsion trailers, the height to the top of the hitch ball should be from 17 inches to 21 inches above the ground when loaded. This balances the load properly on the trailer. An inch or so either way is OK as the weight of the boat changes with full fuel tanks vs. 1/2 or less etc.

On most modern towing hitches that use the 2" square receiver frame mounted, you can buy removable hitch extensions with the correct drop or lift to accommodate your needs at most automotive / marine stores. If you buy a different towing vehicle, you may have to change the removable hitch to a different height because of a new set of circumstances."

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
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Response Posted - 04/30/2007 : 10:08:25

My Catalina 250 is now parked in my backyard. My trailer ball height of 21.5" worked like a charm. After hooking up the trailer it dropped 2" to its final height of 19.5" which put the trailer level, right in the mid range of Tom's 17-21 inches.

Only problem I had was unhitching the trailer last night. This is surely a newbie thing, but what happened is that I backed up the trailer then tried to unhitch it. The whole piece where the trailer hooks to the ball was slanted forwards at nearly a 30 degree angle (like the trailer wan't to lift off the ball as if you would put more weight at the rear of the trailer). What I ended up doing is to remove the ball from my square receiver frame by unscrewing it from underneath (don't laugh) so I could free up my truck!

I think next time I needed to pull up to level that off then try to unhitch? Is that normal, is that what you guys do?

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
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Response Posted - 04/30/2007 : 13:16:49

Sounds like you might have had to much backwards pressure on the trailer. Next time after you've backed in and have your trailer positioned where you want it, put the truck in forward just to release the backward pressure off the trailer. Then set your park brake before you put the truck in park. The idea is keep the truck from rolling and putting pressure back on your hitch again.

Edited by - on

johnsonp
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Response Posted - 05/07/2007 : 01:02:41

There is nothing like a good trailer hitch.
If you have the right hitch height, a good hitch and good trailer brakes..........well what can I say...a picture is worth a few words
TURN OFF THE OVERDRIVE

paulj C310

Edited by - johnsonp on 05/07/2007 01:06:27

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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1091 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2007 : 22:17:55

Looks like a Dakota size truck, something smaller than a 1/2 ton?

From the picture above I now understand the reasoning behind chaining up the truck to the trailer. ;-)

Edited by - on

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