The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I guess you have to take the pin out to put the anchor back in the locker ? hows that work? is it easy ? will it work if you leave the pin out all the time ? or will the line pop off the roller ? At least it will keep the line in line as you pull it in.
Sean, Enclose your shutterfly link between two [img]. A slash is required in front of the second /img inside the bracket and your signature will post correctly. If I post it exactly it will try to show an image.
Sean, I was out of town this week so couldn't reply earlier. I leave the pin in when anchored, which has only been a couple of times so far. The line would likely pop off the roller if the bow were to rise and fall in swells or a wake. The pin easily pulls to open. I can't remember if it can be pulled completely off or not. It's still awkward getting the anchor back onboard.
Sean, I have the same roller mounted the same way on my boat. The pin does not come all the way out, unless you remove a roll pin. I have a claw anchor and the set up works great.
Dropping the anchor: Pull the pin, open anchor locker, grab the anchor and drop it over the roller (the claw will sit on the roller/bow of boat nicely), grab the chain and lower anchor away (I usually stand back of locker when heaving the line).
Retrieving anchor: Grab rode, start pulling in line (I usually stand back of locker when heaving the line), pull and flake line in locker, when anchor breaks surface, I dunk the anchor as need to get off mud (as best as possible), pull anchor up and over roller (again anchor lays on roller/bow of boat), lean forward and grab anchor put back in locker, close the locker door reach up and push pin back (you could probably leave the pin out at this point as it will not go anywhere, but I push it in to make everything "ship shape").
When anchored, I always push the pin in so the rode does not jump off of the roller. I also cleat the line between the two bow cleats in a fashion that allows the rode to pull straight through the roller so there is no chafe on rode (do this when hanging on the hook for long peroids of time - overnighters).
Bubba (or anyone else that's mounted the Windline AR-3), Do you remember how long the 3/8" bolts were that you used to mount your anchor roller? Getting mine mounted is approaching the top of "the list" and since the boat's now about 35 miles away in it's marina, it's harder to just go outside & measure. I'm guessing 1" x 3/8" SS should do it? I plan to use SS fender washers on the underside as backing (grinding them to fit if necessary), nyloc nuts and 4200 as bedding material. Anything I'm missing?
Is the roller butted right up against the forestay fitting, and just forward of the anchor locker? It's hard to see that side in the pictures.
Did you overdrill & epoxy when you did the install? If so, what size did you overdrill to? I'm thinking 5/8" should give me a solid 1/8" all the way around.
I have the AR-3. I believe I used 1 1/2" bolts. Longer helps you locate them and believe me it is tough manuvering around under there with one hand. I advise having two socket sets for this job. Have a 6" extension on the one that holds the nuts. Have some extra washers and nuts in case you drop some. I did not over-drill and fill in, etc. Just drilled the right sized holes and used caulk. With three bolts you don't need 5200. There was metal in the deck which ate a drill bit. I pushed the AR-3 up to the forestay fitting but be careful not to go right up on top of it at all or it will raise that side of the AR-3 and your install will be crooked when viewed from the front. Consider light gloves. There was some unfinished fiberglass in my boat that took some skin off my hand.
I used 3/8" x 1-1/2" stanless bolts, washers, and lock nuts through the deck. I used the standard flat washers under the deck. It is very tight access and it is challanged to install the washers and nuts with one hand (usually by then you have 4200 on your fingers).
I moved my roller a little farther forward to clear the cleat and line up port side of roller with the forestay fitting. When I did that, it put the forward most hole through the deck to hull flange. The nut ended up on the outside of the hull and fit perfectly up into the space at the hull to deck joint. This last bolt was a 3/8" x 2" bolt with a lock nut (no washer).
When I anchor or pick up a moring, I always run the rode through the roller to cleat off. My roller is very solid. When I cleat off the line I go to the starboard cleat. I then use a second line and pull the rode over towards the port cleat to center it through the roller. I like the line to run straight through the roller and not chafe against the edge of the roller assembly.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.