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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Reciently while having a new roller furling installed I learned that my Main halyard is way too short and should no longer be <i>Wire and Line</i>, it should actually be all Line. The reason is because people have found that wire halyards actually strech more than Line halyards do (no to mention no meat hooks to catch your fingers on).. I learned that the Wire/Line combination was a technique that came about in the 70's/80's and is really no longer being used.. After learning all of this I figured I would change mine since my Line is becoming pretty rotten. Has anyone replaced their Main Halyard with an all Line solution. If so what size Line did you use?
I had my rigging guy take a look at my shives and they are the correct type to be used with line..
I replaced my wire/rope halyards with 5/16" line. Have done that on every boat I've had. Don't like wire/rope. With the new rope, you could probably use 1/4" but that would be pretty hard on your hands and probably certain other parts of your deck hardweare would not be sized for it. You could go up in size a little, but it would only be because it hands better. 5/16" is plenty strong.
I replaced my wire/line halyards with 75 feet of 5/16" Sta Set X. (run aft to the cock pit) At that time I also replaced my sheaves to accommodate the new line running through them. Purchased them from CD and had no problems with installation. One of the easiest things I've done to date.
This subject comes up a lot, a couple of years ago several of us did this at the same time and chose different solutions. I think one issue is what is your high-tech floor? Our Commodore and several others went really high tech with stripped jackets and midline splices to even more serious line to save weight aloft. I went with the next click down with 1/4" uniform line but it has a breaking strength of 4300 lbs. It is pretty stiff and ok to work with but not wonderful. http://www.layline.com/prodinfo.asp?number=T914 on sale at .98/ft Others went with 5/16 with marginally more stretch. I think the 5/16 guys probably have it right. You need to figure out what will make you glad you spent the money. Just don't buy anything that is inappropriate for halyard use, low stretch is what helps you flatten your sails in a blow, it is important.
Another thing to consider is running your line inside the mast. If you have an open mast head it is a good thing to do. On my 1977, my mast head is capped closed so I am going to have to drill it out this winter. Cheers.
I went with super hi-tech 1/8" (breaking strength 4600 lbs) center spliced into a 5/16" stay-set tail. Using this I didn't even have to change the rope sheaves at the masthead.
Your lame duck commodore has upgraded the sheaves to 3/16 (Catalina Direct) and now runs high tech 3/16 V-12 center spliced to 3/8 double braid. The 3/16 center splice has 9 feet of overlap. That means the V-12 actually runs all the way back to my winches, although it is inside the 3/8. These lines cost $125 each.
If I did it again I would just upgrade my sheaves to 5/16 and run low stretch 5/16 all the way. However I am happy with my system. I just replaced the jib halyard after 3 years of daily use.
Dave, your sheaves are most likely already sized for 5/16.
I bored out a hole in the masthead and switched the sheaves to run internal up to 3/8ths. Currently we are using sta-set xls 5/16th for the main and a rather old but very functional 5/16th kevlar blend (brand unknown). Nether stretch all that much. I felt that going internal gave things less of a chance of skipping off the sheaves up above since it was making an almost 180 degree turn around the block. (not that this has ever seemed to be a big concern)
This looks like a great deal on a fine pre-made halyard, I am just not sure what the diameter is, I think it is 8mm (5/16), these are nice people to talk to on the phone. http://www.layline.com/prodinfo.asp?number=J24CRMH2
Main halyard: Definately line. I bought the wide sheave from Catalina. I went with a 5/16" high tech (ultra-low-stretch) line. I was able to get by with 72' led back to the cockpit. Nextime I will probably go with 75'.
Jib halyards (2): Definately line. I am using 6mm (~1/4") stuff - again high tech - with a length of 78'. Catalina sold me a set of thin sheaves. I added a plate between them to stop things from getting snarled up there. After installing 6mm, I like it for the weight, but would probably go with 5/16" for the line handling. Of course, lines tend to swell a bit so the larger line might tend to get caught up on the thin sheaves.
The really important thing when switching from wire to rope is to replace all the sheaves. Once wire has been on a sheave it will leave it "knurled" and it will eat up your spiffy new line halyard faster than racers drink free beer.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.