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 Voyage (on land) ahead...need advice
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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/17/2006 :  23:06:39  Show Profile
This week I travel to do a final inspection and payment for our new 2000 250 WK. Assuming all goes well, the Admiral and I will go out the next week to tow the boat from Iowa back to Oregon (2,000 miles). In preparation I figure we will:

remove the OB and place it in the cockpit
remove the rudder and place it in the cabin
have the trailer bearings checked and packed
purchase a spare tire and wheel for the trailer
fully inflate all the trailer and truck tires
strap the boat to the trailer

We have purchased an Equalizer hitch and pole tongue adapter. Can you think of anything else we should do? Advice is appreciated, we have never towed anything this far.



We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails.


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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2006 :  01:51:06  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
I know exactly what you're going through, Rita & I did exactly the same thing just a few weeks ago, except we didn't have to travel quite so far (yes, I know you still hate me for finding a boat in Bend). Here's what I learned:
<ul><li>Increase your following distance to at least 10 seconds, more if it's raining or visibility's bad. Even more if you're following someone on a narrow road whose driving you don't like. We very nearly had a truck and popup trailer for a front end ornament. I thought I'd given him plenty of room, but never expected him to swerve across three lanes directly in front of me, from the left turn pocket to turning right into a parking lot. All I could do was stand on the brakes and hope. We'd purchased the boat, and been on the road for less than twenty minutes, which was also the sum total of my experience towing the boat. </li><li> Presuming you have the same surge brakes on your trailer as on mine, learn to ease into the brakes going into a sweeping downhill turn, instead of braking like you normally would. This helps with fishtailing, with the trailer braking for you. It's much less nerve wracking than having it pushing you through the curve while you're fighting the wheel. If you do get into a fishtailing situation, try to damp out the oscillations by judiciously applying power. I found that trying to brake harder just made it worse. Of course you have to be very aware of your situation when you do this. The first time this happened to me, I was very quickly halfway into the next lane, fortunately with no one there.</li><li> We never removed the outboard, and carried the rudder in the back of our pickup. However, we did experience some porpoising, perhaps having the outboard further forward would have helped with that. </li><li>Checking your tire pressure and bearings is a very good idea, we pulled into a Les Schwab tire dealer to have them do it for us, it's free. You should also make sure all your running lights are working properly.</li><li>Check the brake fluid level on the trailer, check all your other fluids on the towing vehicle as well.</li><li>Stop after 20-25 miles and check everything again, especially your hitch. Don't let anyone else except you attach the hitch, that way you know that it's done right. I didn't do this once while working in San Diego, I'd let the owner's son attach the Boston Whaler, and ended up with it on the emergency chains on I-8. No damage, but not fun.</li><li>Take it easy, you won't be as stressed out, you'll probably get better mileage, and the trip will be more enjoyable.</li></ul>

We hope you have a good trip and get back safely.

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Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2006 :  01:57:28  Show Profile  Visit Turk's Homepage
When I traveled 1000 miles with my C250 the roll of duct tape I had was invaluable for securing shrouds, halyards, and loose ends. Much better than rope, bungies, (although I used those also),but make sure you get rid of it when you arrive home. I made a habit of feeling the temperature of the trailer caps everytime I stopped to see if any heat was developing - they stayed cool.

Bring an aluminum step ladder with you!

Also watch how you park at rest stops and restaurants, hotels, etc. to make sure you can pull forward when you leave or that you won't be blocked in by someone else.

Make sure the trailer brakes are working and depending on the trailer, that the brake system releases when you back up slowly (some trailers you have to click a lever to allow you to back up) The trailrite trailer allows you to back slowly without the brakes engaging.

Drive slower than you need to! I stayed around 50-55 with my Ford 150 truck. It is easier for others to pass you on the left (4 lane highway) than you barreling around others with that big beast behind you!You avoid the stress of dealing with passing and swaying of the boat.

All and all it will be just fine. I was surprised how quickly I got use to pulling it around.

If the weathers moderate, keep the cabin clear and you can cat nap inside!

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2006 :  04:02:56  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Good advice from Turk. The brakes will be a big concern. Six years old, they might not work. Mine quit during the 3rd season. If they don't work, then the tow needs very good brakes and allowance given at all stops.

Brakes on the verge of failure can often stick and heat up the hub. A hot hub can be either a stuck brake or bearing problem.

If using duct tape to secure rigging, wrap the tape on backwards... with the sticky out.

Make sure the fuel locker hatch has a good bungee on it so that it doesn't fly off possibly into a trailing car.

If you can afford it, I'd go for two spares. There is no doubt that the tires will be used someday as the tires on a six year old trailer are likely suffering some rot.

My trailering experience has offered a flat on several long hauls and a flat tire on a twin axle trailer almost always means the tire is ruined. It is more than a little disconcerting to put the spare on to realize there is now no spare.

Go very very easy at first to ensure the trailer balance... if any sign whatsoever of trailer sway... Reduce speed five mph and resist all temptation to approach the sway speed. Any hint of trailer sway is fair warning that should not be ignored... to go any faster can set up a sway that can't be recovered from.

Don't forget to get insurance.

Wishing you safe hauling.

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ceryes
Deckhand

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USA
22 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2006 :  15:27:27  Show Profile
If you are using an Equalizer brand hitch, make sure you use a "removeable" thread locker (locktite) on the bolt that holds the L bracket where the sway bars ride. I believe mine vibrated loose and I had to replace them. Other than that, I really like the equalizer hitch. It is a lot more stable and safer.
Paul

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jking
Navigator

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110 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2006 :  16:00:25  Show Profile
All good points.

I use electrical tape instead of duct tape--white or any color but black. It is water resistant, comes off easily, often without cutting it, and does not leave glue residue. You can buy it in bulk at Homey Depot.

I like the idea of 2 spare tires.

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Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2006 :  18:49:09  Show Profile
Yep,Yep Yep, all great points! No need to remove outboard, and the step ladder is a very good idea. Good luck on your adventure. Watch those low gas station over hangs. You'll be a little over 12 feet high, Knotty Cat measures 12' 6" from the ground up.

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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2006 :  06:17:36  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
Don't forget the tow vehicle. Our drivers side wiper blade broke off within 5 minutes before even getting on the highway in really rotten weather, no fun there.
And don't forget the crew! Make sure you are well rested and don't push your time behind the wheel. If you are preparing the boat from water to trailer, plan on 3+ hours that first time.

Remember the tailer sailors motto....

'Better late than Dead on time'.

...
(ok, I made that up, but it's good!)

Paul.

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Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2006 :  07:24:00  Show Profile  Visit Turk's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by britinusa</i>
<br />.
If you are preparing the boat from water to trailer, plan on 3+ hours that first time.
Paul.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I spent a good 6 1/2 hours getter her ready when I picked mine up! You'll have lots of questions. I had to follow the owner back to his house to pick up things he forgot. (Make a list of all you're to get before you get there.) Trip to Notary Public to transfer title (check the state your in to see if this is required.) Trip to gas station for brake fluid for trailer.

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CaptRon400
1st Mate

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USA
90 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2006 :  10:58:30  Show Profile
Just about everything was covered above, but I'd like to add my 2 cents.

If possible, measure the weight of the trailer tongue when the boat /trailer combo is level. You can do it with a bathroom scale, an x foot long 2x4 and some smaller wooden blocks. You're shooting for 500 to 600 pounds on the truck hitch (assuming that the load is in the 5000 to 6000 pound range (and it should be). You may be able to move weight around on the boat to get there (and that includes the outboard).

Bring a tape measure to help set up the equalizer hitch. You want to split the 500 to 600 pounds of hitch weight (with a level trailer) on all 4 truck tires - measuring the fender height front vs back. Admittedly, the 600 pounds will not overload an F150, but balancing it will really make the long trip a lot more comfortable and stable. I'm no expert, but I usually shoot for 30-40 / 60-70 percent of the weight on front vs rear tires - depending on total load. I've got an 11,000 pound gvw enclosed car carrier and with this kind of load you have to balance everything around.

Keep you eyes open and have a good trip.

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stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2006 :  11:29:13  Show Profile
All great points.
Two things I do to give myself peace of mind while towing my heavy old C25: 1)Keep lists 2)take your time

I keep lists in a coil bound note book and the note book is kept on the console in our truck. I made lists of things to do, things to take, where things were packed away. I made my lists largely from this forum and it certainly eased my mind....especially when the Admiral took a more active part by helping with the lists.
We towed our C25 over the Rocky Mountains allowing for 2 days to make a trip that takes 1 day. The idea being, we wanted to travel only during daylight hours. We ended up doing it in one day because nothing went wrong.
About six months prior to making the trip over the Rockys, we had complete new brakes put on the trailer...because I followed my list of things to do, I checked the temperature of the hubs and tires every time I stopped - I noticed that one hub was hot and the other was normal. I stopped at the next town and had them check my brakes, it turns out that there was a loose part and there was grease in my brake drum. For about $100 I had a complete check in which they replaced all the seals in the brake system.
Lots of stops, take your time.

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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2006 :  20:04:45  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
One more thing...
Ask them for the height of the hitch from the ground when the boat on trailer is level so that you can adjust your hitch before you get there. It cost us $100 to get the hitch turned over as the ball was too low and the extending tongue would have hit the ground when the trailer was hitched to the road hitch.
BTW, we now carry two hitch bars, one raising the ball for road towing, the other lowers it for launching.

paul.

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CaptRon400
1st Mate

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USA
90 Posts

Response Posted - 09/20/2006 :  09:11:29  Show Profile
With the Equalizer hitch, you won't need to turn the hitch over or carry two draw bars. The ball and assembly mount on the shank, and it's adjustable and can be flipped. But I would carry the tools (1 1/8 inch socket, etc.) so you can adjust everything yourself once you get there. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to carry a thinwall socket that works with the big nut at the bottom of the ball shank (1 13/16). You won't even find that one at most auto repair shops.

As far as leveling the trailer, it's also got to be level AFTER it's hitched up to the truck. For an F150, you'll need an extra inch or two of height on the ball to compensate for the near 600 pounds of tongue load. Something like an F350 Superduty may drop by a half inch at most.

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At Ease
Admiral

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672 Posts

Response Posted - 09/20/2006 :  14:19:49  Show Profile
FWIW, I would not use duct tape or electrical tape. If you use plastic strap ties you can put them on faster than tape and you will not have all that goo to clean off.

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