Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a 1980 C25/SK. The keel has a cresent shaped "crack" about 8 inches long at the lower side of the keel. Tapping on it with a metal hammer produces a sound that makes be think it's a bit hollow in there. The thing is, it's been this way since I got the boat about 4 years ago. I tried a barrier coat on it last season which is now flaking off.
I want to lower the keel and grind it down. I understand there is a coating I can use that will bond and convert the outer surface of the iron keel, but I haven't found it yet.
Last year, I paid a guy to coat mine with coal tar. He's a professional sailboat painter, so I took his advice on what to do. I haven't had a chance to revisit my decision--I'll repaint the keel soon.
Scott, my cast iron fin keel had that condition. It was a recurring problem, and I never figured out exactly what caused it, but I decided the best approach was to prevent water intrusion to the cast iron, and prevent any kind of electro/chemical reaction, and I think that solved it, just before I sold my boat.
You should start by pinging the entire keel with your hammer, to find any other bad spots. Cut out all the loose material with a cold chisel. Wire brush the bare iron and spray a coat of rust resistant paint over it immediately. Put about 3 coats of coal tar epoxy over it (VC Tar). Fill the damaged area with a good underwater epoxy filler, such as Interlux's Interprotect Watertite epoxy, and sand it smooth. Then cover it with 3-4 coats of either barrier coat or coal tar epoxy, followed by your antifouling paint.
Finally, put a zink or magnesium anode on the keel. I suspect there's some kind of electro/chemical reaction going on there, that generates gas, and the gas lifts the fairing material from the keel, producing the hollow space. Attach the anode with galvanized screws, not stainless steel ones.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.