Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Wanted to introduce myself, and also solicit some suggestions/info.
My name is Jerry Mothershead. Not new to sail or the Capri 25, but very rusty. I was an avid racer (Shields) in college, bought my Capri in March 82 in Ft Walton Beach, FL, and sailed extensively in upper Chesapeake Bay between 1982-1987, and less extensively in Norfolk 1987-1991. then Saddam invade Kuwait...spent a year there, then moved (without the boat to Chicago) for three years, before back to Norfolk in 1994. In the interim, picked up a wife, a child, and a historic home in Norfolk that could have been used in the Tom Hanks movie (the Money Pit). bottom line is that the boat sat wet or dry storage from 1991 until this year, when I decided to reimmeerse myself in sailing.
Someone broke into the boat, did not steal anything, but left the hatch part way open...long enough for the mud daubers and the dry rot to the cushions, but fortunately that is all the interior damage (the boat was pristine in 1991). Externally other than tons of oxidation it appears in great shape also - had some minor blistering repaired in 1984, but the hull and topsides appear structurally as they were when new...but all the topside teak will need replaced - no big deal.
There used to be some Capris up in Annapolis and Solomons Island (where I was in the 80s), but does anyone know of any active groups in the Chesapeake now?
Now for some questions?
1. Best bottom paint? I used to use micron, but the only two types I have seen mention on any forum are Woolsey Neptue and VC17. Norfolk area gets pretty warm water with subsequent moss/algae buildup and some barnacles if you don't go over the side at least once every two-three weeks.
2. Any speical tricks on the oxidation? I bought a ton of fiberglas rubbing compound and "special formula" (they all say special formula, don't they) fiberglas wax. Boat is white with red racing stripes.
3. Launching from trailer tricks of the trade? I bought a Capri trailer from backyard boats with a launching extension, but with a 4-2 draft was not sure that this could be done until I saw mention in one of the postings...
4. Suggested instrument package by brand? In searching, I have stumbled across NAVMAN 3100, RAYMARINE ST40, and MOOR Electronics EMS group...I believe all I need are the windspeed/direction and knotmeter group (although at one time I had the nickname "Grounder" for obvious reasons...)and am looking at $500-600 regardless of the website (best NAVMAN 3100 full set with one repeater came to about $800)
5. Best compass(es)? I had a knotmeter and a Saturn compass that i had mounted on a board that slide into the companionway...that was the one thing stolen, although they did not take the transducer...so I still have a virgin cockpit...so, as a follow-on...
6. Suggested mounting locations? I have see deck-flush compassess port and starboard, but also both analog and digital ones mounted on the bulkhead.
7. Capri trim parts? I have a damaged section of the aluminum rub rail (and rubber) that i want to replace, have no idea where to find this. Also, the rubber trim on the edge of the forward hatch (not the black sealant, but the edging trim for cosmetics) needs replacement. Suggestions?
8. Final thing - for now...I might have to get a new chute...I think North advertises one for about $1800...am thinking about purchasing a used one for this year till I see if I have time to be competitive again (I did well in Annapolis Race Weeks and Governor's Cup in Maryland, but that was a LOOOOONNGGG time ago). S0...any suggestions on sailmakers, and does anyone have a used chute in good shape they might be interested in selling? Do not anticipate even attempting to fly one in greater than about 15 knots - at least this year...BTW, I saw some posting about boat speed. I was able to routinely peg a 10 knot knotmeter on a downwind plane with the chute up, and I am sure I got up over 12 knots sliding down the backside...you could feel the acceleration...and I never broached (which just means I didn't take enough risks, huh?)
Looking for any and all responses - thorugh the forum or directly..thanks in advance...
Welcome back to the sailing World. I will list my advice in the order that you have asked for it. I am newer to the Capri 25's as I have only had our boat for around 2 yrs now. I sailed a San Juan 24 Before that, and have been around sailing all of my live. I am located in the Central States so there is no help from me being out on the East Coast.
1. Bottom Paint To my knowlege the best bottom paint for the boats that are Drysailed, Slipped, or morred right now is a product Called Vivid by Pettit http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=18 The paint is used allot on the West coast, and in other areas of the US and the World for that matter. It has good results for being put onto the trailer, VC17 comes off to easy. The best paint in my mind would be Gelcoat but thats a different story altogether.
2. The best stuff I have found for this is a product called " Liquid Glass" its for restoring the covers of plastic, and other products. Our boat was heavly damaged from the sun, after days of trying to use the "Do it fast cleaners" I gave it up, and repainted the hull. On a white boat you might get away with using a 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper and lightly going over the hull, Rubbing Compound, Polishing Compound, Then Wax. Yep it takes work.
3.We launch from a ramp, The biggest problem is that the water in the lake needs to be up or at least normal levels. Backe the trailer down to the edge of the water, Choke the tires, pull the hitch, move the car, attach the extension, and back her into the water. I would ask around to see if anyone else launches from the ramp. After a couple of times its really easy.
4. I have an SR Set for Sale, look in the for sale section. All of the tranducers and mast head unit are brand new. I will give you a deal on it if you want it. The mast head wind tranducer is really built for a larger boat, Lets say in the 40 to 60' range. We had it for the San Juan 24, and I never put the suff together. Email me and I can send Photos if you want. I think the best out there would be somthing from tack tick, solar powered wireless, My next choice would be a Raymarine System, Navman, You might be able to find some clearence stuff at Defender, and West Marine had a closeout on the Standard WS100 System.
5. again Tack Tick, hands down the best compass.
6.The Mast is where I have ours mounted. I used a slug with a bolt in it, and had a bracket made for the compass to rest in. I have a standard old Ritchie. I keep telling the wife I want the Tack Tick, maybee next year.
7. You need to take the teak off the boat and make a replacment, I don't know of anyone that does that kind of work. If you need I can make up some detailed drawings of the replacements. As for the rubber parts Catalina Direct has all of these parts in Stock and ready to ship. I just replaced the aluminum sections along with the rubber rubrail all around the boat. Sections come in 8 ft. peices, and the rubber comes as long as you want. They will also have the rubber for the forward hatch, and they have a great window rubber replacment also.
8. I have a North AirX600 Runner that I love. the material in the light air seems to keep the sail full and light. I can relate with you about the boat seemeing to take off. Its a blast to sail. My suggestion would be for you to look at Ebay or some other sail lofts for a used Spinnaker. WYC used to have a forum on there site, but now its gone. It was a good place to find just about anything for the boat.
I use VC17m. I am on a freshwater lake. My boat is hauled every winter and put in a cradle.No issues, like the ease and care of the VC17m very much. You can probably get the parts for the rail and the teak from Catalina Direct. They are very good to work with. For intrumentation, I am using Raymarine and am completely satisfied wit it. The ST40 series is adequate for my needs and very low power draw off the battery. Welcome to the Association and good luck on putting her back together.
As of November our boat sat on a morring all yaer long. I didn't want to spend a bunch of money putting a bottom paint on when I knew that I would have the boat up on a hydrohoist soon. The boat sat for 1 yr with the bottom paint on the bottom. I used the cheapest can I could find. I ended up with a West Marine Bottom Pro. It was at least 2 yrs old, dusty on the shelf, and a price tag of around 30 bucks. It was also the darker blue we wanted for the bottom. I like the ease of the VC17 going on, Its almost like putting water on the bottom. I like that the Vivid comes in any color you want (this is a big deal for my wife). If it was up to me the boat would not be red but White everywhere. There is nothing like being over on the start with a group of white boats, The fist number called is OURS. If you are going to race the boat I would invest the extra money on the more expensive racing paint. But if you are just going out a couple of times per month, and racing the beercans, I don't see that the money is all that well spent. How much time are you going to pick up? I think that its more a mental thing, Knowing that you have a good bottom on the boat will give you more of an edge. I do agree that the boats if dry sailed should only have the gelcoat, But most of the time our boat will be on a hoist, Keel in the water.
Chris brings up some good pointson paint choice. One thing I considered as well was the venue I sail in. I'm on a lake that gets a fair share of light air days. Sometimes that VC17m has been the diference in sailing and motoring. Just a thought.
Duane, It really has not been a problem yet, Most of the time we are mid pack somewhere in the middle of the line, or behind the "Rockstars" if you call them that. My big goal last year was to keep the boat from hitting someone else, we would run the line and try and get the best start as possible. The only time we were over early was in the MS Regatta, We had our watch set 60 seconds early, had enough time to tack the boat and get back over the starting line before the gun went off. It was our First Regatta on the Capri 25. My thoughts are if you a red boat, your gonna stick out in a fleet of white boats, And if its close on the line the RC will call your number first.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.