Association Forum - Work Done On Volare Hull #17

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Work Done On Volare Hull #17

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Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/10/2005 : 13:45:32

I am going to post the fiberglass work I did along with a small description of what I did during the photo. I will start with how We got Volare and the story behind her.

It was this time last year when I was emailing the PO of our San Juan 24. He had some information that I needed for the boat along with the ownsers manual and other stuff that I didn't get when we had bought the boat. The San Juan 24 was given by him to the MS Society to be sold for charity. My father had MS and we decided that 1. we could get a good sailboat for a good price, and 2. that we could be helping out the MS Society by buying the San Juan 24. So after a year had gone by I still was collecting hardware and other stuff from the San Juan from the PO. Rod (the PO) owned the Capri 25 at this time and was involved in an accident during a regatta. I asked him over emails what he was going to be doing with the Capri 25. He had told me that some WYC Members were interested in the boat for parts and the hull would be trashed. I asked him what he wanted for the boat, and talked it over with my wife Kim. NOW Kim didn't want anything to do with another boat, see we had two already so a third just wasn't going to work for us. I told her to keep an open mind and just go and look at the boat. It was OCt. 15th last year and we were going up to the sailing club anyway. we ate dinner up at the club, and asked her if she wanted to go and look at the Capri 25. We went down to the docks and she took a look at the boat, the cockpit was bigger and the interior was spottless. I told her that if we bought the Capri it would be her boat and I would sail the San Juan 24. She looked at me and told me that we needed to get intoch with rod to pick up her Title to the boat. So that was it we bought the Capri 25 that night.

The boat had dammage to the starboard side of the hull, and the deck was cracked 1" back from the stantion back 12 to 15 inches. The t-track was bent and holding the boats fiberglass together. the rubrail was dammaged.

the next week was spent gettig the boat out of the water and onto our San Juan 24 trailer. This effort took us 5 hours and 4 people moving back and forth with lines trying to get the keel into the keel guide. After she was up on the trailer, this is when I started taking photos of the damage, and started reading up on fiberglass repair.

Ok here is the start of the photos.

C.S. McKillip
Ericson 33

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 10/10/2005 : 13:58:29

You can see a blue marker line in some of the photos. This was done by the insurance company. Everthing inside of this line was to be removed and rebuilt. The insurance estamated the repair to be around the 6000.00 range. I member at our club told me that the repair if I did the work myself would be in the 200.00 to 500.00 range.

In the last photo of this series you can see our San Juan 24 in the background.

Edited by - Ericson33 on 12/06/2005 14:54:00

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 10/10/2005 : 14:13:30

After spending all winter long reading books on fiberglass repair, I was ready to start working on the boat in the spring. I had covered up the damage to the deck with a trashbag using duck tape. This was lesson #1. After water sits under the plastic it has no where to go and starts bubbling up the paint. Needless to say the job just got allot bigger than I thought.

The first thing that I did was to remaove the t-track from the boat. I was working by myself so I had the idea of getting some vise-grips and setting them on the nuts down below while I unscrewed them from the top sides. This took 2 days of work, as some of the nuts were hard to get off and some I had to cut or drill out.

After the track was off I could see tha damage allot better. there was a good crack in the glass, and the hull was just being pushed in by the tracks bent shape. I took the wood moulding off of the inside and the damage there was that the hull liner was comming in around 1 inch. That was it. there was a small crack in the roof, but the main damage seemed to be in the topsides of the deck. My next idea saved me hours of work. I got 5 4x4 post and cut them at 2 ft. sections. I built a good base for them to set on as well as a 2x12x3. I took my car jack out of the trunk and started very slowly jacking back up the roof of the boat. I got on the topside and had a rubber mallet and banged the glass back into its normal shape. The edge of the boat along its side was gone. It was comming off in sections, So I knew I had to rebuld all of the side, as well as the t-track fibergass mold.

After the deck was flush, I got a grinder and took out all of the damaged glass along the cracked line. In some places it was 8" and others it was only 2". I ground it all to a 12:1 bevel. as far as the edge went I ground out all of the damaged area there and got it ready for the repair.

Inside of the boat I also took the grinder and made the 12:1 bevel for a glass layup. Here are some more photos of the repair. I will comment on each of these to tell you all the steps I took.

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 10/10/2005 : 14:26:20

Ok this was my first day of laying up glass. I used 3 layers of glass mat and cloth per layup. I didn't mix the resin and the curring ajent right so the first layup was not a good one. I didn't know how fast the resin was going to take to cook, so I covered it up and went home. The next day the glass was still wet, So I knew I did something wrong. I scraped all of the repaired are clean and reground the area. After reading the resin can again I figured out what I did wrong. I again started with the resin and 3 layers of mat and cloth. after 15 min. it had cured rock hard. I was able to get 12 layers on the outside of the deck and 6 layers on the inside.

Edited by - Ericson33 on 12/06/2005 14:55:03

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 10/10/2005 : 14:35:40

Now with all of the basic glass work done, I made a filler with the resin, and filled all of the cracks and gougs. this was the most time consuming part of the glass work. The hull and deck joint was dammaged it this spot so I removed all of the cracked glass, taped up the bottom of the joint and drilled 1.16" holes spaced 1" apart all the way down the edge. I mixed up a resin filler and used a syringe to fill up the voids down the inside of the outer glass. Next I made a template of the outside shape of the deck t-track, and using filler I made this part of the deck almost the same shape as the original. At this point I was 6 days into the repair.

I made a mold of the nonskid using PVA, gelcoat, resin and cloth layup. It work out well. I filled everything up flush with the filler, then took a router with a 1/4" bit set down 1/16" and routed out a void for the gelcoat to setup in. This process was done really fast and sloppy and it took me 4 tries to get it done right.

At this point I was done with the deck and glass work, and started in on the refinishing of the paint, and bottom.

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Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 10/10/2005 : 14:39:18

I spent a good 2 days sanding down and fairing the sides of the boat. After this was done I sprayed the boat with a single part polyurathe primer made by interlux. I was going to use algrip but the price of this stuff is too much for me. I knew we would be racing the boat and scraches were going to be all over it if it was going to be used right.

Edited by - Ericson33 on 12/06/2005 14:56:01

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 10/10/2005 : 14:45:21

After the primer was done, The whole boat was sanded down with 220 grit paper. This was a good base for the paint and I was ready to appy the paint using a HVLP spraygun. It was now almost summer and it was hotter than (_____) outside. I had a full mast and paint gear on, gloves, and a hat. I sprayed the boat with 3 coats of Interlux Polyurathan/epoxy paint. I went on really easy. I found that the most time consuming thing was masking off the boat every day. Here are the photos of the paint job.

Edited by - Ericson33 on 12/06/2005 14:56:48

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 10/10/2005 : 15:00:06

Bottom Paint- I decided to use the cheapest bottom paint that I could buy. It this time Summer 2005 I have bought a hydrohoist for the boat to sit on. I am still on the boat slip list but I should have a slip in a month. So winter/spring 2006 the bottom paint will be comming off of the boat back down to gelcoat. The only thing that will have paint will be the foils. I spent another two days sanding and preping the bottom of the boat. I first started with 80 grit, and ended up with 320 grit before painting. I used WM epoxy bottom pro. I rolled it on 2 coats took 2 days. Here is the final photo of the rebuild. This was an hour before she (Volare) went back into the water.

It was a fun project to do, but man, what allot of work to do by yourself. Everything was done by myself, I had some help doing some misc. stuff to the boat but thats about it.

All in All it took me 12 to 14, 8 hour days to do this project. I estamate with the tooks that I had to buy, resin, glass, mixers, fillers, paints, primers, mask, cloths, and other misc stuff to be around 700.00. I also gained the know how and the experence to be able to do these kind of repairs, and the next time it will be allot faster, that the first. If you plan on doing this kind of work, read up before you start. I spent 4 months reading repair books and articles on the net. I asked allot of questions about glass repair and painting. Be carefull and wear the right protective gear, It will save your life.

Sail Fast

Edited by - Ericson33 on 12/06/2005 14:57:55

Ben
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1234 Posts

Response Posted - 10/21/2005 : 11:16:03

Thanks for sharing. Excellent job.

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