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 Balancing a 2nd generation rudder
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Keith D.
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USA
233 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/25/2005 :  22:04:51  Show Profile
Has anybody balanced a 2nd generation rudder, non-beaching? I just picked up a 2nd generation beaching rudder and was comparing it to the 2nd generation non-beaching rudder. Other than the head needed for pivoting the blade back the two were surprisingly the same. I don’t know if you can see the yellow string which goes through the center of the pintles and a second string 2 degrees back. The two rudders were set up within a 1/8” of each other. It seems to me that the non-beaching rudder would also be greatly helped by being balanced. To balance the non beaching you would have to move the upper pintle forward by 3/8” (blade back) which would swing the center of the blade forward by the same 1” which Arlyn used on his beaching version. To do this you would have to remove the two bolts holding the pintle to the blade fill the holes and redrill 3/8” forward of the original holes. Because you are changing the angle by less than 2 degrees the lower pintle probably wouldn’t have to be moved if there is a 1/32” slop in the gudgeon. If not then one of the holes for the lower pintle may have to be relieved to allow for the change in angle.

This got me to thinking wouldn’t it be easier to shim the upper gudgeon out by 3/8”. This would give you the same 2-degree rake of the rudder. This would move the bottom of the rudder forward by the same 2 inches and the center forward by the same 1” and should give the same rudder balance by moving a part of the rudder in front of the pivot point. Am I missing something here? Sure would save a lot of work of filling and redrilling and putting the frame of the beaching rudder on the table saw and trimming off some of the frame to allow for the extra swing.
A couple of other things I noticed. On Arlyn’s beaching rudder the detent position was aft of point where the rudder seated against the frame, where on mine when the forward part of the rudder was against the frame and the detent hole lined up. Looks like Catalina had made some changes though not enough on mine. On Oscar’s beaching rudder it looks like they made some more changes in that part of his was already in front of the pintles when he got it from Catalina (see below picture). This seems to show even more that the non-beaching 2nd generation rudders should be balanced also.

As you can see from the below picture the detent had worn a 3/8” gouge just behind the hole allowing the blade to swing back 6 degrees. That would be a 6.2” rake back at the bottom of the rudder. I am sure that would give you a considerable amount of weather helm. This can not be seen from the outside. To fix this Arlyn has devised a different hold down system. The only change I would make to that is to use a rope around the cheek block and use an auto-release rudder cleat. (APS part number C257) I have used one of these on the centerboard of my 18’ and they work great. Also you can see the comet trail where the detent gouged the entire distance of the rudder swing. It was probably quiet a struggle to get the beaching rudder up if it makes these marks when you are raising it. I will probably grind off the detent ball so the blade can run free.

.

Keith
Southern California
250wb Hull #8

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2005 :  22:53:24  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Keith,

I'm not sure shiming the upper gudgeon would work. I'm thinking rudder balance is in relationship to its hinge center line.

Filling the pintle bracket holes and redrilling will work if there is enough stock to accomplish.

Your exactly right, after the rivets wear a groove in the rudder head, the rudder will lag back and cause great amounts of helm torque.

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