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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Here's a repair for you sliding hatch

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Steve Kostanich
1st Mate

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88 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/15/2003 : 12:00:00

I finally got sick of the squeeky, draggy operation of my sliding hatch, an have come up with a solution that seems to have cured the problem. Here's what I did. First the cause of the problem was located; the flanges on each side of the hatch were badly worn on the bottoms, and the first six inches of each side was cracked. This allowed the hatch to ride on the "rises" on the port and stbd. sides of the openning. In addition the slots in the teak runners was very worn down, which compounded the problem even more.
I started by removing the teak runners and the hatch. The hatch was tackled first. I laminated three courses of glass, using System Three epoxy, to the bottom of each flange on the hatch. I then sanded the bottom of the slots in each teak runner, wiped things clean with acetone and glued a strip of 1/16" x 1/2" aluminum to the bottom of each slot, full length. The glue side of the aluminum was abraded with 100 grit cloth and the glue was Marine-tex. When everything was cured and sanded, I did a test-fit to see how things went together. I had raised the hatch enough that it was actually too tight in the teak slots, so a little router work to open the slots a bit and I was in business. After the final assembly, I sprayed a little Sailkote dry lub on the aluminum sufaces, and WOW the hatch is like on Ball bearings! and no squeaks! Don't know how long life this repair will be, but it's pretty sweet right now.

Steve Kostanich C-25 1119 Equinox sr/sk moored Oly., WA.

Edited by - on

Tony Dillon
Navigator

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USA
168 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2003 : 19:27:41

When I made this repair to Mental Floss last year, I went to the local John Deere dealer and picked up a bottle of graphite (less the $3 for a pound). I mixed it into the last layer of System 3 epoxy I put on the bottom of the hatch rails. It really slicked it up also, although next I do this repair I will do like Steve and glue some aluminum into the teak rails too.

Tony Dillon
Mental Floss

Edited by - on

Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2003 : 20:03:10

I've been noodling on this repair, and have no confidence in the long-term load-bearing capability of the flanges on the sides of the hatch. However, it appears to me that the cutouts on the forward edge and aft edges of the hatch that fit over the raised rails in the poptop are intended to carry the load. My plan, subject to comments here, is to add a nylon or other type of pad to the edges of the four cutouts, so that they ride on the poptop rails more smoothly and raise the hatch enough to clear the center arch from the non-skid deck--the source of the awful noise. I can only figure that the side flanges are meant to keep the hatch from lifting off the boat--they are simply not engineered to carry its weight (and the weight of anyone who sits or steps on it).

Whaddaya think?

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

Edited by - Dave B on 05/15/2003 20:04:37

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Steve Kostanich
1st Mate

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88 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2003 : 20:57:29

Dave,
I agree with you on the load carrying ability of the hatch. I am making a point of staying OFF of it with my full weight. I had considered your suggestion of adding nylon (I was going to use teflon) under the cornors and ride the hatch on the pop top, but it looked like bear to get even four point contact so it would not teeter-tooter on diagional cornors. If you do the nylon, let us know how it works, as you can then stand on the hatch without worry of breaking the flanges.

Steve Kostanich C-25 1119 Equinox

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2003 : 22:20:54

For slides, wear strips and even backing, I often use a material commonly known as 'hi-moly' or 'UHMW'... both are acronyms for 'ultra high molecular weight plastic'.

It is available in sheets and strips from most industrial supply houses and comes in different grades from soft (white) to very hard (black). It is easy to cut, work, drill and mill and like 'nylon' is slippery and self-lubricating.

Only downside is that nothing sticks to it, so it must be mechanically fastened with screws bolts...

Very handy stuff.

-- CB

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2003 : 22:34:13

Dave,

I, too, have to do this repair, because my hatch flanges have wore away and the hatch is squealing on the raised rails.

As a temporary fix to this problem, last spring I went to the hardware store and purchased flat furniture slides. They look like small white plastic disks, about the size of a quarter and around an 1/8" to 3/16 inches thick, and are used on the legs of chairs to make them slide better. Anyway, I notched these disks down the center with the width matching the thickness of the hatch where it meets the raised rails. The depth of the cut was about half the thickness of the disk. Next, I pried up on the top slightly and inserted a disk under the forward edge of the hatch over each rail. The edge of the hatch goes into the slot on the disk locking it in place. Now the hatch is riding on the raised rails and not the teak rails.

I've only put these on the forward portion of the hatch, because when opening or closing the hatch, I slightly lift that handle to take the pressure off of the rear. Anyway, no more squeaking and sticking until a more permanent fix can be made, but since this is working the rebuild project is now farther down the list.

<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>Don Lucier<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d904b3127cce9f7cd9ffdf1d0000003010" border=0>
North Star SR/FK

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2003 : 22:47:37

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>For slides, wear strips and even backing, I often use a material commonly known as 'hi-moly' or 'UHMW'... both are acronyms for 'ultra high molecular weight plastic'.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

At my work there is a film imaging machine and parts of the film cassette are lined with Teflon tape to prevent the film from sticking to it. When you rub two pieces of it together its really slippery. It comes in self adhesive roles like regular tape. I don't know how it would stick outdoors, but some self-adhesive Teflon tapes are designed to withstand extreme temperatures(-40 degrees F to 500 degrees F).

<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>Don Lucier<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d904b3127cce9f7cd9ffdf1d0000003010" border=0>
North Star SR/FK

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LOREN SOUERS
Navigator

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USA
100 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2003 : 11:18:59

Just an aside to all you "Go-getters". I usually leave my hatch open while sailing, barring any awful weather. I like that the hatch has some resistance. Someone is always (perhaps too strong a term) going down and getting a beer, etc. Don't want to decapitate any crew or, God forbid, the capt.

I'll leave this job to next year. Or...

Loren, skipper
Nimue, the Lady of the Lake

Edited by - on

Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2003 : 21:22:50

Don: With your furniture slides, you decribed almost exactly what I had in mind. I'll be copying that soon. However, like Loren, I'm not looking for extreme slipperiness--I'd prefer that the hatch have a small amount of friction to prevent unexpected sudden closures when the boat pitches. I seem to recall that the aft edge of the hatch rides on the teak trim, which contacts the ridges on the poptop... I expect that will provide just enough friction--is that what you've found?

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2003 : 21:40:11

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>I seem to recall that the aft edge of the hatch rides on the teak trim, which contacts the ridges on the poptop... I expect that will provide just enough friction--is that what you've found?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Yes, it is exactly what I have found.

Like I said in the earlier post, I only put the slides on the forward part of the hatch, but I still have to slightly lift the rear when moving it. There is still plenty of friction so it won't move at all, but that annoying SCREEEEEEEEEEEEECH caused by the forward part of the hatch is now gone.

<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>Don Lucier<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d904b3127cce9f7cd9ffdf1d0000003010" border=0>
North Star SR/FK

Edited by - dlucier on 05/16/2003 21:40:45

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