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 Running lines aft

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
wm36 Posted - 03/08/2021 : 17:55:58
I know this is not a new topic and I have read several threads on the topic. But I have a slight twist on the approach and would like some advice.

On my 1995 WB I know it is possible to remove the screws on the mast step and twist a little and grunt a lot and remove the step and attached compression post so a mast plate can be added under the step. Sounds like a lot of work and I worry about getting a good seal under the step again.

I found this variation to the mast plate at Garhauer Marine. https://www.garhauermarine.com/mast-boom/mast-plates/mast-plate-ms-6.html Sorry, not sure how to post the picture, but it's basically a strip of holes to mount turning blocks that can be screwed to the deck. Anyone with any experience or opinions on this? I'm a little concerned about the strength, but if hefty backing washers are used below maybe it's okay?

I intend to run the main halyard and convert to a two-line reefing setup on the starboard side. Possibly on the port side I might add the vang and spinaker halyard (I have a furler so no need for the jib halyard).
9   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
zeil Posted - 03/27/2021 : 08:59:35

Ha...ha... it'll be a stinky affair for sure
Voyager Posted - 03/26/2021 : 16:26:41
Henk, I reckon that you’d probably end up with burnt rubber. No?
zeil Posted - 03/26/2021 : 10:52:10

Very doable suggestion Russ to use pan head bolts. It would also eliminate having to drill countersink holes in an awkward location. If need be a minimal amount of the hard-rubber mast base could be removed from the mast base to obtain the required clearance.

On another note and speaking of the hard-rubber mast base what would happen if the mast ever gets hit by lightning?

Russ.Johnson Posted - 03/26/2021 : 00:18:53
Wayne,

I noticed in the photo above, at the bottom of the mast there is a square stainless plate above a rubber foot.
You could use roundhead screws that would be covered by the rubber foot.
This would fix the problem of hitting the square plate during the mast raising.
It would also give more strength because countersinking a flathead removes some metal.
I'm sure the rubber foot would have enough give to allow clearance.
You could also consider an ovalhead or roundhead.
Just an idea.
wm36 Posted - 03/25/2021 : 16:42:39
Russ, thanks for the post. I am thinking along similar lines to your suggestion. To avoid as many holes through the deck as possible, I am thinking about mounting the strip brackets to the mast step itself. The details are unknown at this point. The brackets are not expensive so I have ordered two of them from Garhauer. I will test fit and measure before drilling any holes. As you mention, it may be possible to cut one strip in half to have three holes on each side of the mast, which would be perfect, although would allow no future expansion (whatever that might be, I can't imagine). The inside width of the step is 3 1/4", and the foot of the mast is 3", so there is not much extra room in there. I am hoping that, with a right angle drill attachment, I can fit a countersink bit in there so the mounting screws are flush with the inside of the step.

Again, the details are unknown at this point. I will get the bracket strips so I can see what size machine screw they take. Then get some screws and see how they fit, if countersinking is possible, etc. And of course, making sure that mounting the brackets on the step does not interfere with the pin at the base of the mast when it is inserted prior to raising the mast.

As always, any hints or suggestions are appreciated.
Russ.Johnson Posted - 03/24/2021 : 13:45:55
Wayne,

Here's a photo of a 1995 Mast Base.

I copied it from this post
Jib Sheet Anti-fouling line
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32008
Russ.Johnson Posted - 03/24/2021 : 08:08:51
Wayne,

I've been away, so I missed your post.
As you know, 1995 was the first year for the C250, which only came as a water-ballast.
That model year, the halyard cleats are on the mast and there was no mast base brackets for the turning blocks.

I've used the Garhauer website before, but I haven't looked at a mast base bracket.
The best option is to remove the mast step and add the mast base plate under the mast step.
Here is one example.
https://www.garhauermarine.com/mast-boom/mast-plates/mast-plate-ms-2.html

I understand your concern about the effort and getting a good seal.
Your option of a bolt-on bracket might work, but if you are worried about a good seal, why drill more holes in the deck?
Here's another thought. Don't mount the bracket horizontally on the deck, but mount the bracket vertically on the mast step. Mounting stainless-to-stainless won't leak.

Next, the Garhauer only comes in one size. At 7-1/2 inches, that is really big for a small boat.
It's like you could cut it into two pieces and still be big enough.

Questions:
How long is your mast step?
Is there room enough room between the mast and mast step to fit the screw heads?
With the added screw heads, will dropping the mast be so tight it can't be done?
Do you buy 1 bracket and cut it for both sides, or buy 2 brackets and cut off the excess?

Of course, I haven't done any of this.
Please measure everything possible before starting.

You can also send me an email with your pictures and I will post them for you.
wm36 Posted - 03/23/2021 : 19:25:16
Thanks John. On my '95 my jib car tracks are much shorter and further forward. I'm a little concerned about whether the rope clutches will interfere with the jib sheets, but it looks like this is the standard location for all the parts.
wm36 Posted - 03/18/2021 : 19:27:34
Okay, so crickets. Let me try something else.

I have an idea to try for attaching the turning blocks. Can I see some pictures of how some of you have routed your lines after that? I'm interested in things like: inside or outside the jib car tracks; rope clutch aligned with the winch or not; how far away from the cockpit wall? Thanks for your help.

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