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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Taking on water!!

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T O P I C R E V I E W
TwistyMcFisty	Posted - 09/02/2024 : 05:37:14 So I just put my �77 Cat 25 in the water for the first time since ownership. Seems I have a pretty substantial leak at the volcano. Seeping through a hole, not the hose. How to I go about repairing it?? I know I shouldn�t just glob some sealant on it but would that work for now?? I�ve pumped out probably 15 gallons in the last two days. HELP!!! I wish I could post a pic!!
15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
GaryB	Posted - 09/15/2024 : 03:13:41 quote: Originally posted by islander I wouldn't attempt to fix this while the boat is in the water. Your leak could turn into something much bigger. Haul the boat and do a proper repair, You will sleep better. Just as a FYI... if your Dremel only has a 2-pronged plug factory installed that usually means it is double insulated and therefore does not need to be grounded. Unless something has changed in the past few years manufacturers are required by OSHA to either ground tools using a 3-pronged plug or double insulate their electric tools. Don't take my word, things may have changed since I retired from the tool rental industry. Check the paperwork or call the manufacturer to confirm this. The owners manual should also explain which method they use to protect the operator.
islander	Posted - 09/04/2024 : 06:26:55 I wouldn't attempt to fix this while the boat is in the water. Your leak could turn into something much bigger. Haul the boat and do a proper repair, You will sleep better.
Voyager	Posted - 09/04/2024 : 05:54:23 I have a corded dremel that is not grounded, as it has a two-pronged plug. I would NOT suggest using that in a boat on the water due to electrocution hazard. If you have a cordless version, however, you�re safe. If I could not use a dremel tool, my alternative would be a mallet and chisel, a file, and a stout paint scraper. I�d also keep a kayak dewatering pump, a sponge, and a 2-gallon bucket handy.
Steve Milby	Posted - 09/03/2024 : 09:05:58 As I sit on my sofa, not able to really see it up close, my only suggestion for a Dremel bit is a cutting wheel.
TwistyMcFisty	Posted - 09/03/2024 : 08:39:32 My greatest fear in delaying would be the problem getting worse. I live on the coast of NC so I should still have some good weather days ahead. It�s a very difficult spot to get to. I may need to cut an access panel under the steps. I have an angle grinder but not sure that would get in there. Might need to use a dremel tool?? Any idea what dremel bit would be best for fiberglass??
Steve Milby	Posted - 09/03/2024 : 07:27:38 I understand the confusion now. When we hear the word "volcano," most of us think of the original to-hull valves. Your explanation clarifies that you're referring to the structure where the keel cable exits the hull. Until now, a leak at that location has been traceable to either a loose hose clamp or a deteriorated hose. I've been an association member since 1983 and have never heard of a leak through the fiberglass structure at that location. This raises two questions. What caused it? ( You don't want to repair it only to have it happen again.) How to fix it? The most likely cause is that some part of the keel cable is chafing against the structure. It might help to examine it with a borescope camera. Here's a link to one for $24. that works with a cellphone. https://www.amazon.com/Borescope-Endoscope-Camera-Light-iPhone/dp/B0CP86DPTW/ref=asc_df_B0CP86DPTW?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80127100575560&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726564544461&psc=1&msclkid=9c831a7cc804158d13d77cabdeb5cb65 It's possible that the cause was simply a factory flaw in the layup of the fiberglass that took all these years to show up. If you can identify a cause, you should try to eliminate it. To repair it, you'll have to dry it out and lay up some fiberglass. The dilemma is that it takes time to dry it out and fiberglass has to be done within a temperature range. Thus, the question is, would you rather pull it out early and lose the end of this season to repair it, or delay launching it next spring? You can't do fiberglass work after it becomes cold. Unless you're located in the deep south, there's no good choice. A temporary fix might get you through the last of this season, but your launch might be delayed next spring.
Voyager	Posted - 09/03/2024 : 06:50:32 Ohhh! I see, you have the swing keel model C25 and the leak is near your winch cable for the keel. Gotcha now! There are two sink through-hull fittings on my boat, so I thought it was the other one. Unfortunately, I don�t have a swing keel model, so I have no idea how to advise you on that. I guess it�s no surprise that Catalina also used the volcano type arrangement for the swing keel cable assembly. Here�s a replacement keel cable tube Catalina Direct sells along with some related parts. winch tube My suggestion is to also use this Forum�s search function to find articles about repairs to that mechanism and set up the bilge pump in the meantime.
TwistyMcFisty	Posted - 09/03/2024 : 03:09:18 Just to clarify again, I have replaced the sink thru hull. I am leaking water where the keel cable exits the boat. The leak is in the keel trunk.
Voyager	Posted - 09/02/2024 : 23:10:23 You must haul out the boat, then take a hammer and chisel, or an oscillating Feintool to remove the volcano. You have to completely take out the original through-hull fitting (pipe, valve, collar, any fiberglass) until you�re down to the smooth fiberglass hull. Some folks have said that it will just crumble with a few strikes. If the hole in the hull is clean and can be securely fitted with a new through-hull fitting, install it per the instructions or read Don Casey�s book. If it�s crusty, grind it smooth, then install. If you need to widen the hole, grind it out cleanly. If you need to make the hole smaller, you must start by completely sealing up the hole using layers of fiberglass sheets wetted out with resin or epoxy. Once cured, make sure that the surfaces are smooth and flat. Then, drill the correct sized hole for the fitting and install it as directed. There is no way to save the volcano.
TwistyMcFisty	Posted - 09/02/2024 : 21:30:33 How does one go about replacing the volcano??
Voyager	Posted - 09/02/2024 : 21:21:46 The volcano is the problem. It is porous and fragile, and must be replaced as soon as possible. Another tack is to plug the underside of the through-hull. This will require a tapered wooden plug, a rubber mallet, a swim mask, and a stout line that�s keel hauled between the port and starboard gunwales beneath the boat near the through-hull opening. Using the line as a guide, get underneath the fitting and insert the plug. Tap it in gently to avoid popping the entire fixture out of its mount. Once the wooden plug gets wet, it will swell up in the hole and keep it in place until you can make a permanent fix. You might try to secure it in place with some epoxy if you�d feel better. << This is ONLY a temporary fix until you can haul your boat and fix it right. Also note that if you break the old volcano off accidentally, your boat will sink. It�s a good idea to have these on hand as an emergency plug >> https://defender.com/en_us/emergency-plugs-repair
TwistyMcFisty	Posted - 09/02/2024 : 15:15:49 It�s leaking about midway up the volcano. Sink thru hull is new.
Voyager	Posted - 09/02/2024 : 10:43:38 Hello TM - did you launch from a trailer or a travel lift? Can you take the boat out of the water to work on it, or do you have to dd your repairs while in the water? If the latter, then do what you need to do just to keep it afloat. Do you have power where you can run a bilge pump? If not, may I suggest that you get a 100W solar panel and run the pump using that to keep the bilge from getting flooded. If, however, you can haul, then do the job the right way as Steve M pointed out. You don�t have to be a master boat-builder to do the job (hardly anyone will inspect your hull or your bilge), but read the pros like Don Casey and Nigel Calder for rebuilding tips. There are also several great YouTubers like BoatworksToday and West System. Drilling out the hole and cleaning it up is essential, then layering in the glass and resin is super-important. Backing the new through hull fitting is key to get the strength you need.
Steve Milby	Posted - 09/02/2024 : 08:38:00 Here's a link to a previous discussion about replacing the old to-hull valve with a proper through-hull valve. https://catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=31034&SearchTerms=volcano I had an additional through hull valve installed in my C&C 35. Instead of using either plywood or fiberglass for backing it, the service tech backed the new valve with starboard. It isn't susceptible to deterioration, like plywood, and it's quicker and easier than layering fiberglass.
captain bucknut	Posted - 09/02/2024 : 07:15:48 Hey I posted for you back on the FB site. See if you can find some Stay Afloat. That will work or I see where someone else suggested the JB Weld underwater repair. Clean the area around the volcano with a scotch brite to create a cleaner surface to adhere to if doing JB weld cause you don�t want what you adhere to to be loose too.

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.