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 New tool helped complete ext wood treatment
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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3367 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/23/2019 :  18:05:17  Show Profile  Visit OLarryR's Homepage  Reply with Quote
First, I finally completed stripping all previous years of varnish from exterior wood and after using cleaner and final preps, all extra wood now finished with teak oil and all wood has special made sunbrella covers to reduce weathering effects.

During this process, I removed the grab rails and did all stripping and refinishing to them at home. But had an issue with one of the stud bolts with it’s head inside the grab rail. When removing the grab rail off the cabin top, the nut could not easily be removed off the end of one of the stud bolts. The stud bolt threads may have been somewhat stripped and the nut could not be turned by hand and using pliers, the nut would not come off as the stud bolt started turning freely within the rail. I finally was able to remove the nut using 2 pliers - One on the nut and one holding the stud from rotating but probably doing addl damage to the stud bolt threads.

When re-installing the grab rail, It was impossible to even start threading the nut onto the one stud bolt that initially gave me trouble - The threads were damaged. I was going to cut off the lower threads with a diamond wheel cutter using my Dremel but then very few threads would remain.

On the web, I came across a tool that repairs threads on stud bolts, screws, etc, It is a small grinding stone bevel edge bit that you use with a Dremel. The tool and name of the company is ezthread.com. - You can order it on Amazon.

What a great simple tool - Repaired the threads in no time! A few passes on the bottom threads and I was then able to get the nut on the end of the stud bolt. After a few more passes on the rest of the stud bolt threads, I was then able to hand tighten the nut all the way. So, in just about 5 minutes of use, I was able to fully repair all threads!.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2019 :  18:42:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the info Larry! Might work good on keel bolts if anyone wants to clean them up.

Looks like they have several versions. Which model did you buy?

What did you use to strip your grab rails? I plan to start on those next weekend.


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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1889 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2019 :  20:28:10  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Larry,

Thanks for pointing out and recommending ezthread or Rotary Thread or whatever the heck that thing is called.

As a former professional mechanic, I've had to deal with damaged threads more times than I could possible count, or even want to think about. My usual arsenal includes taps & dies (of course), thread chasers (commercial and hand made), thread rebuilding files, die makers files, etc.

I also have some experience using a Dremel (a.k.a. die grinder); I'm on about my 4th one. Although that thread grinding bit doesn't look idiot proof, it seems like a valuable tool in the hands of an experienced and skilled die grinder operator.

On the original problem of attaching teak handrails, I've been using the biggest stainless steel deck screws which will fit from below without poking through the wood. I add a stainless steel trim washer under the countersunk or bugle head to help spread the force on the deck liner. I think the result looks better than a nut, and doesn't hurt as bad when I whack my head on it. Having said that, I have another 100 #10-NC SS acorn nuts on order for other stuff bolted through my deck.

In hard woods, precise pilot holes are essential. In situations where I have an existing pilot hole in the teak rail, but no exactly matching clearance hole in the deck, I drill or extend a small pilot hole all the way through the teak from the bottom, and use that as a drill guide for a new pilot hole in the deck.

After drilling the deck 2x oversize and filling with reinforced epoxy, I again use the through hole in the rail to pilot drill the cured epoxy plug.

After test fitting everything, I plug the hole in the teak from the top using epoxy thickened with teak powder. Although epoxy won't last in direct sunlight, the teak finish I use acts as a sunscreen. A tiny teak dowel would also work, glued in place, then trimmed flush.

— Leon

— Leon Sisson
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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3367 Posts

Response Posted - 06/29/2019 :  09:37:47  Show Profile  Visit OLarryR's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The ez thread model#382 was used - Small but actually works for many thread sizes.

I have used 2 strippers - both from Home Depot. A water-based one, Motzenbachers Stripper - Less toxic and sort of biodegradable, but also a little slow to strip. Also used Kleen Strp - Premium Stripper. This one is more toxic and ventilation/moving air away from you is best for safety. I mostly used this one at home for the grab rails but also used it on the companionway boards about 2 years or more ago when I finished that project.

Luckily, I reused my grab rails. Was not looking forward to dealing with new rails and then have to deal with mounting it appropriately.

Years ago, before starting this varnish stripping and going with teak oil, I posted my thoughts and plans to use Sunbrella and cover up all wood. Well, the cover was first completed for the companionway boards and trim, and having used the cover for about 2 years now, I designed and my sister sewed new covers for all exposed wood. So, now is all with teak oil and covered when away from the boat.

I’ll have to take new photos since a lot has changed on my boat and my website needs to be updated!

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html
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