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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Hatch Boards - Update		  New Topic  Reply to Topic
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4275 Posts
Initially Posted - 06/10/2019 :  15:52:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Anyone know how thick the hatch boards are supposed to be? I checked Catalina Direct and could not find that info.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
Edited by - GaryB on 06/22/2019 17:47:40

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts
Response Posted - 06/10/2019 :  18:19:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
For my 1985 C25, the crib boards are just shy of 1” thick. They could’ve started out at 1” in the past, but with each successive refinishing step they might’ve been slightly trimmed down from the original thickness.
The slot that they fit into is approximately 1-1/8” wide so you’ve got a bit of leeway there.
Now if you’re thinking about purchasing new teak or mahogany boards and want to replace the crib boards, you should know the following:
1. The bottom board is tapered at the bottom on approximately a 20°/70° angle to sit flat on the “bridge” or threshold of the companionway.
2. The boards overlap with an step or a half-lap where the outer piece lies over to top (from the outside) of the bottom to keep the rain out.
3. The boards themselves are made of four separate pieces of wood apiece that are mitered together. There are two “runners” on the edges and two slats in the middle that are not specifically joined together except between each slat and its corresponding edge runner. That’s a tongue and groove joint.
4. The top of the top board is cut at a 20°/70° angle so that it fits under the cabintop slider.
5. The nominal thickness is 1.0” minus. If you purchase your own wood make sure the finished thickness is about an inch. One-By lumber is notoriously thinner than 1” because raw boards my be 1” while sanded or finished one-by can be 7/8” thickness.

Good luck with your project.
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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GaryB
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4275 Posts
Response Posted - 06/11/2019 :  15:47:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the information Bruce!

I just need something for a few days while I refinish my originals. I bought a 4' X 4' section of 3/4" plywood as it was the closest thing I could find and cut it to match a template I had made last Saturday. I thought I'd cut the bottom angle correctly but when I attempted to fit it this morning the cut was at the wrong angle. I brought it back home and will re-cut before this weekend. Otherwise it fit very nicely.

BTW... the top is at an angle as well so the hatch will slide over it.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5231 Posts
Response Posted - 06/11/2019 :  15:57:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My pleasure, glad I could help. I also have a plywood blank that came with Passage that has a plastic louver and mesh screen in the middle to aid in air flow. I believe it was made by Dave S+!nkp0++er or the PO. I too use it while refinishing the crib boards.
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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GaryB
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Response Posted - 06/21/2019 :  17:49:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Another question, if I remove the handrails on top of the cabin will they maintain the slight curve or will they straighten back out once the bolts/screws are removed?

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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1889 Posts
Response Posted - 06/21/2019 :  20:24:04  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Re: "Another question, if I remove the handrails on top of the cabin will they maintain the slight curve or will they straighten back out once the bolts/screws are removed?

Mine straighten slightly, but the curve is still there.
— Leon Sisson
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GaryB
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4275 Posts
Response Posted - 06/22/2019 :  06:39:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Leon Sisson

Re: "Another question, if I remove the handrails on top of the cabin will they maintain the slight curve or will they straighten back out once the bolts/screws are removed?

Mine straighten slightly, but the curve is still there.

Thank you Leon!

Any suggestions on how to re-install them?

Start at one end? Start in the middle and work out to the ends?

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
Edited by - GaryB on 06/22/2019 06:40:32
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5231 Posts
Response Posted - 06/22/2019 :  06:47:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
One thing I did with the bolts was check to see whether they’d spin in their place. Mostly they’re stuck securely in place but you might get one that spins when you put the wrench on the nut to tighten it. If so, a little crazy glue near the base of the bolt should hold it. If that still doesn’t do it, you have a few other things you can try before having to dig out the wooden plug on the top of the rail.
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
Edited by - Voyager on 06/22/2019 06:49:07
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GaryB
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4275 Posts
Response Posted - 06/22/2019 :  08:06:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Voyager! Appreciate the info.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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3312 Posts
Response Posted - 06/22/2019 :  08:19:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
GaryB, when I removed my teak handrails each time they straightened out and it was a pita to get the curve back while re-attaching. The best way I found was to screw in one end first (mine did not have bolts) and then work my way forward, one screw at a time.
Derek Crawford
Chief Measurer C25-250 2008
Previous owner of "This Side UP"
1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized"
San Antonio, Texas
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4275 Posts
Response Posted - 06/22/2019 :  08:24:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Derek Crawford

GaryB, when I removed my teak handrails each time they straightened out and it was a pita to get the curve back while re-attaching. The best way I found was to screw in one end first (mine did not have bolts) and then work my way forward, one screw at a time.

That's what I'm afraid of!

My boat has both bolts and screws if I'm not mistaken.

Thank you Derek!

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
Edited by - GaryB on 06/22/2019 08:25:43
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts
Response Posted - 06/22/2019 :  08:30:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Back to the hatchboards...

Is it best to use a regular brush or a foam brush to apply the Cetol?
Do I lightly sand between coats?
How many coats does it usually take when bringing the boards back from bare wood?

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts
Response Posted - 06/22/2019 :  16:45:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by GaryB

Anyone know how thick the hatch boards are supposed to be? I checked Catalina Direct and could not find that info.

Here's what I started with.
Start

Sanded - DO I have to get every bit of the grey off? Hard to see but there's very tiny thin lines that show grey. Thinking they made add "character"?
Sanded

After wiping down with wet rag to remove sawdust. Is this similar to what it will look like after applying Cetol Marine Teak?
This is the correct picture...
Wiped Down with Wet Rag

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
Edited by - GaryB on 06/22/2019 17:51:58
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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3312 Posts
Response Posted - 06/23/2019 :  08:45:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
GaryB, it will look a little darker after the Cetol. I always used a foam brush to apply, LIGHTLY sanded between coats and applied 3 coats of regular Cetol and then one of the semi-gloss (designed to protect the coats underneath)
Derek Crawford
Chief Measurer C25-250 2008
Previous owner of "This Side UP"
1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized"
San Antonio, Texas
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts
Response Posted - 06/23/2019 :  18:01:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Derek you were right, they are darker after just the first coat. I wanted them to look similar to the wet picture above but it's quite a bit darker. Will probably be about as dark as the remaining good areas in the first picture above.

I used the Cetol Marine Natural Teak and now I'm wishing I had gone with the regular or even the light version.

Still look much better than before I started!

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
Edited by - GaryB on 06/23/2019 18:04:20
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